I have a pair of 6 ohm resistors. Should that do the job in the back or do I need to go to the next up I have found, 25 ohm?

As for the mystery harness:
There are two holes below and to the right of the bonnet pull where some form of a switch was once mounted.

As for the unconnected plug, the red is constant hot, the yellow goes hot with key in "On" position.

I grounded the black and arched the red to the yellow (like a simple "on/off" switch might do), no front round fog lights as I had hoped, but the dash binnacle warning lights come on for a few seconds and then turn off. 'Just like when you turn the key to the "on" position, but no beeping, no TOD light, no radio, etc. accessory power, and the dash lights turn off after just few seconds. With an in-line 5 amp fuse, this couldn't have been some form of push-button power for a remote starter, or something?

I'll check the flow rate (for lack of a more knowledgeable term), but I guess, at the very least, I have two good powers, one constant and one switchable, to run a couple of Painless wiring fuse blocks to power future, and hopefully many, electrical upgrades.


I guess I'll pull the bulbs on the fogs in the off-chance that both are burnt out. I was hoping I was part way to Trooper-switch-switchable fogs, which is what I intended to do in the first place, to prepare for more powerful/proper driving (if I don't go H.I.D., or if I do...), fog lights.