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Thread: L.E.D. Flashers Woes; Mystery disconnect harness

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  1. #1
    Member Since
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    6 ohms should be fine.. 3 would probably even do it

    my justification...

    V=IR (voltage = current x resistance)

    14V = (54W/14V) * R (54 watts came from 27 watt bulbs front and rear)

    R= 3.63 ohms in the circuit stock..

    of course i could be wrong.. anyone else whos done it already share what they used/ the results?


    "Engineers believe if it ain't broke, it doesn't have enough features yet"

  2. #2
    Member Since
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    Originally Posted by etlsport
    you got it.. if you get the correct size resistor.. you only need one per side (easiest to install in the tail lights probably).. after that you could add a bunch of LEDs later and it shouldnt affect your flashing speed significantly

    That is exactly what I did, and still have working LED's throughout entire VX and one resistor per side attached to metal behind rear tail lights, works great.
    X2 I'm LED all the way around and those resistors work fine.
    The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable man persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore all progress depends on me.

  3. #3
    Member Since
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    3 OHM works for me

    I have one 3 ohm on each side and it has been working perfect for years. I got them here:

    http://autolumination.com/equalizers.htm

  4. #4
    Member Since
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    Quote Originally Posted by LittleBeast View Post
    I have one 3 ohm on each side and it has been working perfect for years. I got them here:

    http://autolumination.com/equalizers.htm
    I guess I should've made my reply above in BOLD letters..... Let me try again:

    I HAVE ONE 3 (THREE) OHM ON EACH SIDE AND IT HAS BEEN WORKING PERFECT FOR YEARS.

    Yeah the 6 ohms are only good for one bulb, so you will need 4 of them total.

  5. #5
    Member Since
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    2000, Proton Yellow, VX, 0584
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    LittleBeast and etl are correct. Like in my review a 3ohm on each side (circuit) will suffice for the front and rear lamps. I've tried "electronic" flashers and have had no luck with them. I didn't like the idea of the load balancers but they perform the best out of all the solutions I tried. that's why I included them in the review.

    The only drawback that I can forsee, is that you will not know if a lamp burns out. Normally, if a stock lamp burns out, the flasher will have less load on it and will flash rapidly on the side of the burn out, giving you the tell tale sign of the burn out. With the load balancer installed, the flasher will not do that. Fortunately, I've not had a burn out since the original install in 2005
    Scott / moncha.com

  6. #6
    Member Since
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    OK, so I was incorrect along in my reasoning that 6 ohm x 2 provides more “resistance” than 3 ohm x 2. My mistake. I don’t play golf, so I assumed the smaller nomenclature indicated a smaller resistance, and the larger number provided a greater resistance.

    Thanks for the aggressive, if somewhat confrontationally-demeaning, assistance:

    LittleBeast:
    “I guess I should've made my reply above in BOLD letters..... Let me try again:

    I HAVE ONE 3 (THREE) OHM ON EACH SIDE AND IT HAS BEEN WORKING PERFECT FOR YEARS.

    Yeah the 6 ohms are only good for one bulb, so you will need 4 of them total.”
    Bren Workman
    Gretna, NE
    (C) 402-312-1992

    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  7. #7
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    the higher the ohms the more resistance

    whether the resistance is additive or not depends on the configuration.

    if the resistors are sequential then they are additive
    3ohm + 3ohm = 6ohm
    6ohm + 6ohm = 12ohm

    if the resistors are parallel then you need to take the inverse of the additive inverse to determine the resistance
    1/((1/3ohm)+(1/3ohm)) = 1.5ohm
    1/((1/6ohm)+(1/6ohm)) = 3ohm

    use this calculator if you're not a "math person"
    http://www.1728.com/resistrs.htm


    As for what's happening in this circuit... I can't say without knowing how the circuit is designed. unless you can get a wiring diagram you'll have to settle with "3 ohms per light works, 6 ohms doesn't" trying to understand WHY is quite difficult without knowing how the system is designed. ... for all I know the blinker circuit has a load sensor and if it's above OR below range it will go into hyper mode... maybe 3ohms is just what keeps it happy.
    Last edited by twistedsymphony : 08/12/2008 at 07:43 AM

  8. #8
    Member Since
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    Quote Originally Posted by workmeistr View Post
    Thanks for the aggressive, if somewhat confrontationally-demeaning, assistance:
    Haha, sorry man I was just trying to be funny. Glad you are figuring it out though. I am still having problems putting ANY led's in my RX-8, the car does an ABS check through the brake light circuit and if there are any differences from stock it will completely shut off ABS and traction control, and no amount or combination of load equalizers help that situation, electrical problems are so frustrating I feel your pain.

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