L.E.D. Flashers Woes; Mystery disconnect harness

[etlsport]

as far as ive seen (and ive seen pretty much my whole vx stripped) ive never seen an in line fuse anywhere in the vx. probably aftermarket... which could be why your front fogs/driving lights dont work.. mine turn on with the tail lights

as for the flasher... i would say just go with in line resistors.. you only need to put them in the front or rear, not both.. i was working on spike's VX and he has an aftermarket flasher for LED turn signals and it makes all his turn signals funky and makes things flash that shouldnt be flashing too

[workmeistr]

I got the kick panel off...nothing but dusty realys and a wadded-up rubber sticky cover, presumably to cut down on dust-ingress, which I couldn't separate from being stuck to itself. I fabbed a similarly-shaped piece out of black vinyl.

I do have in-line resistors and I've seen where people have used them and where they mount them for the front turn signals due to their heat build-up. I'm a little leary about splicing into the wire to install, and, I wouldn't mind converting the front amber side markers to flash in the future, as well. Either I do it all at once or just the front turns for now, and risk having to do in-line resistors for the future side marker-to-turn signals conversion. Decision, decisions.

I just thought that a proven, quality, L.E.D. flasher would eleviate splicing, hot resistors, and keep my side marker mod open...I didn't know that a flasher could make things go waywire. Heck, I didn't know flashers got power with the ignition keyed "on," even before using the turn signal stalk. I never would have thunk it.

[workmeistr]

etlsport
"as for the flasher... i would say just go with in line resistors.. you only need to put them in the front or rear, not both.. i was working on spike's VX and he has an aftermarket flasher for LED turn signals and it makes all his turn signals funky and makes things flash that shouldnt be flashing too"

I think I missed a significant point here. If I went with rear turn signal L.E.D.s and I installed the resistor back there, as I have seen someone here has done, with pictures...I only need that one set of resistors in the rear and that would "load" the flasher to flash at a normal speed, without having to install resistors in the front? I could live with that.

[etlsport]

you got it.. if you get the correct size resistor.. you only need one per side (easiest to install in the tail lights probably).. after that you could add a bunch of LEDs later and it shouldnt affect your flashing speed significantly

[LittleBeast]

you got it.. if you get the correct size resistor.. you only need one per side (easiest to install in the tail lights probably).. after that you could add a bunch of LEDs later and it shouldnt affect your flashing speed significantly

That is exactly what I did, and still have working LED's throughout entire VX and one resistor per side attached to metal behind rear tail lights, works great.

[workmeistr]

I have a pair of 6 ohm resistors. Should that do the job in the back or do I need to go to the next up I have found, 25 ohm?

As for the mystery harness:
There are two holes below and to the right of the bonnet pull where some form of a switch was once mounted.

As for the unconnected plug, the red is constant hot, the yellow goes hot with key in "On" position.

I grounded the black and arched the red to the yellow (like a simple "on/off" switch might do), no front round fog lights as I had hoped, but the dash binnacle warning lights come on for a few seconds and then turn off. 'Just like when you turn the key to the "on" position, but no beeping, no TOD light, no radio, etc. accessory power, and the dash lights turn off after just few seconds. With an in-line 5 amp fuse, this couldn't have been some form of push-button power for a remote starter, or something?

I'll check the flow rate (for lack of a more knowledgeable term), but I guess, at the very least, I have two good powers, one constant and one switchable, to run a couple of Painless wiring fuse blocks to power future, and hopefully many, electrical upgrades.


I guess I'll pull the bulbs on the fogs in the off-chance that both are burnt out. I was hoping I was part way to Trooper-switch-switchable fogs, which is what I intended to do in the first place, to prepare for more powerful/proper driving (if I don't go H.I.D., or if I do...), fog lights.

[etlsport]

6 ohms should be fine.. 3 would probably even do it

my justification...

V=IR (voltage = current x resistance)

14V = (54W/14V) * R (54 watts came from 27 watt bulbs front and rear)

R= 3.63 ohms in the circuit stock..

of course i could be wrong.. anyone else whos done it already share what they used/ the results?

[LittleBeast]

I guess I'll pull the bulbs on the fogs in the off-chance that both are burnt out. I was hoping I was part way to Trooper-switch-switchable fogs, which is what I intended to do in the first place, to prepare for more powerful/proper driving (if I don't go H.I.D., or if I do...), fog lights.

Dude I just got done doing that with the Trooper fog light switch. It looks pretty sweet! I have the Hella Micro DE's and some 6k Xenon HID bulbs (H3 size) in them and man they are sweet looking!