L.E.D. Flashers Woes; Mystery disconnect harness

[etlsport]

you got it.. if you get the correct size resistor.. you only need one per side (easiest to install in the tail lights probably).. after that you could add a bunch of LEDs later and it shouldnt affect your flashing speed significantly

[LittleBeast]

you got it.. if you get the correct size resistor.. you only need one per side (easiest to install in the tail lights probably).. after that you could add a bunch of LEDs later and it shouldnt affect your flashing speed significantly

That is exactly what I did, and still have working LED's throughout entire VX and one resistor per side attached to metal behind rear tail lights, works great.

[workmeistr]

I have a pair of 6 ohm resistors. Should that do the job in the back or do I need to go to the next up I have found, 25 ohm?

As for the mystery harness:
There are two holes below and to the right of the bonnet pull where some form of a switch was once mounted.

As for the unconnected plug, the red is constant hot, the yellow goes hot with key in "On" position.

I grounded the black and arched the red to the yellow (like a simple "on/off" switch might do), no front round fog lights as I had hoped, but the dash binnacle warning lights come on for a few seconds and then turn off. 'Just like when you turn the key to the "on" position, but no beeping, no TOD light, no radio, etc. accessory power, and the dash lights turn off after just few seconds. With an in-line 5 amp fuse, this couldn't have been some form of push-button power for a remote starter, or something?

I'll check the flow rate (for lack of a more knowledgeable term), but I guess, at the very least, I have two good powers, one constant and one switchable, to run a couple of Painless wiring fuse blocks to power future, and hopefully many, electrical upgrades.


I guess I'll pull the bulbs on the fogs in the off-chance that both are burnt out. I was hoping I was part way to Trooper-switch-switchable fogs, which is what I intended to do in the first place, to prepare for more powerful/proper driving (if I don't go H.I.D., or if I do...), fog lights.

[etlsport]

6 ohms should be fine.. 3 would probably even do it

my justification...

V=IR (voltage = current x resistance)

14V = (54W/14V) * R (54 watts came from 27 watt bulbs front and rear)

R= 3.63 ohms in the circuit stock..

of course i could be wrong.. anyone else whos done it already share what they used/ the results?

[Ascinder]

Originally Posted by etlsport
you got it.. if you get the correct size resistor.. you only need one per side (easiest to install in the tail lights probably).. after that you could add a bunch of LEDs later and it shouldnt affect your flashing speed significantly

That is exactly what I did, and still have working LED's throughout entire VX and one resistor per side attached to metal behind rear tail lights, works great.

X2 I'm LED all the way around and those resistors work fine.

[LittleBeast]

I have one 3 ohm on each side and it has been working perfect for years. I got them here:

http://autolumination.com/equalizers.htm

[LittleBeast]

I have one 3 ohm on each side and it has been working perfect for years. I got them here:

http://autolumination.com/equalizers.htm

I guess I should've made my reply above in BOLD letters..... Let me try again:

I HAVE ONE 3 (THREE) OHM ON EACH SIDE AND IT HAS BEEN WORKING PERFECT FOR YEARS.

Yeah the 6 ohms are only good for one bulb, so you will need 4 of them total.

[LittleBeast]

I guess I'll pull the bulbs on the fogs in the off-chance that both are burnt out. I was hoping I was part way to Trooper-switch-switchable fogs, which is what I intended to do in the first place, to prepare for more powerful/proper driving (if I don't go H.I.D., or if I do...), fog lights.

Dude I just got done doing that with the Trooper fog light switch. It looks pretty sweet! I have the Hella Micro DE's and some 6k Xenon HID bulbs (H3 size) in them and man they are sweet looking!

[workmeistr]

O.K., old thread, but,
I mounted two 6 ohm load resistors, one on each side in the back.
On one lead, I tapped into the power of the turn signal wire at the base of the light cluster wire loom, to the other resistor lead, I tapped into the ground wire, further up before the ground wire attaches to the turn signal bulb base. I thought that the load only needed to be on the flashing turn signal, so that is why I walked up a wire to put the load on the common negative wire past the splices for the other two lights. This may have been flawed reasoning, though, as:

I still have hyper-flash on normal turn signal mode, however, I have a normal flash speed on Hazard mode (I guess the 2 x 6 ohms is enough resistance to have the blinker module flash normally).

So, what did I do wrong? Others had suggested that 2 x 6 ohm in the back only would provide enough resistance for normal turn signal flash speed. I guess I'll have to run resistors in the fronts, unless someone thinks that I should have tapped the ground down at the base of the common ground wire before all three lights. Though, I can't fathom why that would make any difference, but I am a novice wirer..er..er. Thanks for any suggestions.

[etlsport]

i've never installed the resistors before... but I would think that your resistor should be just an interruption of the power wire, not even touching the ground. the current will choose the path of least resistance, so it will just go around the resistor and through the LED as it would have if the resistor wasnt there at all...

[etlsport]

did some more research.. looking at moncha's review of the flashers and the website. it seems that a 6ohm resistor will only make up for one of our turn signals going to LED.. a 3 ohm resistor will account for 2 turn signals (front and rear).. so if you put a 3 ohm resistor in the place of the 6 you have there... should take care of your problems

the capacitor that controls the rate of flash of the turn signals is based on the current through the circuit. the current through leds is much lower than through the regular bulb. a lower current with the same voltage gives a higher resistance. to lower that resistance you add a new resistor in parallel with the lights.. resistors in parallel effectively lower resistance.. so by decreasing your resistance you increase the current through the circuit.. causing the capacitor to discharge less frequently... i think