Quote Originally Posted by VX KAT View Post
OK, my plan of attack for the rear skid is to measure the distance between the skid hole and the cladding screw hole.

~If it's a relatively small distance, drill the hole a little larger in the skid to try to match it up, but not so large that the washer fits through. I found some really large flat rubber washers 2.5" across that might help in that scenario.

~If distance is pretty big, need to make a metal "bridge". A skinny flat piece of metal with a hole in each end. Connect cladding to hole closest to truck, connect skid to the other hole.

~All using grade 8 hardware, and aluminum or something stainless steel for the bridge.

~Dub and Ron did I get that basically correct as you told me?

~Any precautions if I do have to drill the skid plate hole larger? It's ABS....will it shatter or crack etc??

~Also realize there's no way in he!! I can get a locking pin on the hitch w/o some major surgery on the skid. So think I've seen some regular pins that will fit if I want to run with my superbumper on. Any other ideas?

~Would it be OK to just put a wire nut on each loose end of wires for the fogs I cut off, and tuck them up behind the cladding?
Not certain why you would need a bridge to connect the screws tot he cladding hole. You may just need to take off more material from the top edge of the slot to allow the plate to slide further down the hitch and line up the holes. The slot was based on Tone's hitch which I'm not sure if that's what you have or not.

ABS will not crack unless you run over it or something. You can drill it, sand it, file it, and machine it if you have to.

I was able to put a non-locking pin in it. I suggest placing the plate in place, installing the pin, then installing the screws from plate to cladding. HTH. ron