Installing fiberglass type skid plates -need ADVICE/HELP!

[VX KAT]

Thank you oh MASTER craftsman Dub! Thank you for 'splainin' all the stuff and tellin' me what I needed to go buy. I CAN do it now!

John- The paint job is spectacular! Ashley you're goin' love 'em!

I really think the darker silver color is great, and the contrast against my new darker cladding works perfectly...IMO, and that's what counts, right?

And I did try to search Bart...just didn't use the right combo of words

[ron]

hi VX KAT...

If the fiberglass plates bolt in the same manner as my originals then you'll need two M6-1.0x35 socket stainless steel bolts for the license plate holes and two M6-1.0x40 socket stainless steel bolts for the bottom holes. If you PM me your address I can send you all four with washers at no cost. Just let me know and I'll send them out. ron

[VX KAT]

hi VX KAT...

If the fiberglass plates bolt in the same manner as my originals then you'll need two M6-1.0x35 socket stainless steel bolts for the license plate holes and two M6-1.0x40 socket stainless steel bolts for the bottom holes. If you PM me your address I can send you all four with washers at no cost. Just let me know and I'll send them out. ron

Actually Ron, these plates were made by you. I bought them from "Bantan" in Florida. I just uploaded pics, they look fantastic!
I'll PM ya my addy. Thanks.

[ron]

He didn't include the hardware or install instructions w/ the plates? Shame on him, lol.

By your pics, looks like you may need to open up the hitch slot wider with a file or something equivalent. File down both sides equally and keep checking fitment after a few filings. I'll eventually slide into place when the material is clear with the hitch.

I'll send you screws and washers for the rear plate as well. Looks like you'll need about four of them since you have the hitch version.

If you have problems aligning the bottom screws with the holes in either plates, drill out a size larger hole to allow more lining up with the screws. But not too large that the washers won't work anymore.

I'll get the hardware together and send them out tomorrow pending your address. Take care and you can e-mail me direct at rudesvx@sbcglobal.net if you have any further questions. Thanks, ron.

[vt_maverick]

hi VX KAT...

If the fiberglass plates bolt in the same manner as my originals then you'll need two M6-1.0x35 socket stainless steel bolts for the license plate holes and two M6-1.0x40 socket stainless steel bolts for the bottom holes. If you PM me your address I can send you all four with washers at no cost. Just let me know and I'll send them out. ron

Hey Ron, in VA we have front plates and I found the M6-1.0x35 were too short. I tried the 40's instead and they were too short too. Thinking of going to Fastenal tomorrow to see if they have 45 or 50. Ever run into that problem with any of your other customers?

[Mile High VX]

Hey Ron, in VA we have front plates and I found the M6-1.0x35 were too short. I tried the 40's instead and they were too short too. Thinking of going to Fastenal tomorrow to see if they have 45 or 50. Ever run into that problem with any of your other customers?

Front plates in CO as well. I had to use the 50 with the Rowhard skids...found them at Home Depot here in their specialty fastener cabinet. I also have a clear plate cover that I really like that I had to add some length for.

[VX KAT]

I'm putting rubber (neoprene) washers on both sides...I'll need to add room for that too. Are you doing that too?

I also got some black surgical tubing to make the tiny little bands for the screws.

I don't have to have a front plate for AZ, but I haven't tried the 40s yet to see if they'll work with my washers.

Mav if ya end up having to buy a boatload, I'll buy some from you. I'll probably need them.

[ron]

Hey Ron, in VA we have front plates and I found the M6-1.0x35 were too short. I tried the 40's instead and they were too short too. Thinking of going to Fastenal tomorrow to see if they have 45 or 50. Ever run into that problem with any of your other customers?

Do you have my original plates or the fiberglass ones that Roward made. All the plates that I've created were vacuum formed ABS and all utilized the screws: 35's for the top license plate holes and 40's for the bottoms. If you have the fiberglass plates, since my plates were the original molds for these copies, I have a gut feeling that the fiberglass material may have shrunk a bit which will cause the plates to 'pull away' from the cladding and the screws would be too short. Resorting to longer screws, like 45's or 50's, will probably make it work.

[vt_maverick]

Do you have my original plates or the fiberglass ones that Roward made. All the plates that I've created were vacuum formed ABS and all utilized the screws: 35's for the top license plate holes and 40's for the bottoms. If you have the fiberglass plates, since my plates were the original molds for these copies, I have a gut feeling that the fiberglass material may have shrunk a bit which will cause the plates to 'pull away' from the cladding and the screws would be too short. Resorting to longer screws, like 45's or 50's, will probably make it work.

Sorry Ron, should have been more specific. I do have your plate, but the problem is when you try to mount a front license plate. If you don't need a front plate, 35 works fine.

[VX KAT]

FRONT SKID INSTALL-
Top 2 holes, where license plate delete goes.
~Weird, one side allowed bolt to go through the inner most hole on the clip thing with the threads, and other side wouldn't whatsoever!
So I had to slide the clip over a little, to line up with skid hole, so the bolt could use the other hole on that clip. Allowed bolt to screw right through it.

~OK, got both of those are nice and snug, with the rubber washer and metal washer on front.
~Had to use 45mm screws.
~Also cut some neoprene washers in half and glued them to the back of skid, covering the raw ends of the "fake" bolts" and the top edge of the plate. Otherwise those would be grinding a nice notch in the cladding.
With the washers glued on, none of the edges of the plate are rubbing too much on the cladding.

Lower plate holes are way way off, at least 1/2", maybe even 3/4". If I sanded down the plate hole with a file, it would end up pretty darn thin between the hole and the edge of the plate. So maybe Luna's "slide hammer" idea would work here.

QUESTION: It seems really secure with just the 2 top bolts, and the lower edge is within 1/2" of the cladding, so nothing's "drooping"....... think it would be sufficient with just those 2? Thoughts, opinions?

[nfpgasmask]

And I did try to search Bart...just didn't use the right combo of words

I know, I was just razzin ya!! That's all I'm good for these days.

Bart

[Triathlete]

I know, I was just razzin ya!! That's all I'm good for these days.

Bart

Sounds like you need a trip to Moab to get your VX mojo back!

[Anita]

waaaaaaaaaaa!

Ron, I wish you made those plates again!! They are beautiful

[ron]

waaaaaaaaaaa!

Ron, I wish you made those plates again!! They are beautiful

To tell you the truth, I had been thinking about resurrecting the skidplates again. But not too sure about the demand for them right now with the economy and all.

Unfortunately my vacuum-forming vendor shop went belly up and destroyed the molds for the plates. I would have to have another set machined out if I was to seriously consider bringing these back up in the market again. Not certain if I'll take the plunge as I don't have a VX anymore..yet. ron

[nfpgasmask]

Sounds like you need a trip to Moab to get your VX mojo back!

You have NO IDEA, Billy. I want to take a permanant trip to Moab right about now. My job is running me a little ragged. 2012, son! 2012.

Bart