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Thread: CV Axle Shaft

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  1. #1
    Member Since
    Nov 2014
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    2001, white, ironman
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    I see, do the inner axles that go into the differential wear down quickly in this condition? Also, What would explain the clunk noise when the TOD %100 engages/disengages? To replace the shafts, it would be outer axle shafts?

  2. #2
    Member Since
    Nov 2004
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    1999 Ex-Ebony..Fully Line-X'd ..0189...THE "ORW".....matching Line-X'd Trailer made from a written off 2001 Ebony.
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    With regard to the axle shafts....

    I'd suggest only doing the outer .. "Half Shafts" initially.

    Basically from "Green Cup" outward on each side.

    This is usually the culprit with clicking etc on tight turns...
    ...and also when TOD kicks in...as this loads them up and
    cause binding/clicks not always noticeable when TOD is
    not in "action"

    When doing this, check condition of inside of "green cups"
    for excessive wear and fit of new races.
    If OK.. you should be good..if sloppy... entire new axles may be needed.

    What replacement axles are you using...some are good..
    ...some NOT so much!

    The Sur Trac replacement axles are very good if not used for aggressive
    off roading.
    The race/balls and tolerances are up to OEM spec.

    Cheers

    jo
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  3. #3
    Member Since
    Feb 2007
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    2000 Proton VX - 0776
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    Quote Originally Posted by Merrell90 View Post
    I see, do the inner axles that go into the differential wear down quickly in this condition? Also, What would explain the clunk noise when the TOD %100 engages/disengages? To replace the shafts, it would be outer axle shafts?
    The green cup is actually the outer race of the CV joint. If you're getting the clicking sound then it's likely that the green cup has some divits worn into the grooves where the bearings ride (that was my finding on a statistical sample of one).

    Most people end up just needing to do a good cleaning - new grease - new boots ... but a few of us weren't so lucky. I was able to find a shop that ground out the grooves on the green cup and then installed oversized bearings. That worked fine for me. Another member found a shop that filled the grooves with a welder and then machined them back to OEM tolerances. That worked out well too. Everyone else that had excessive wear of the joint either went with SureTrac shaft replacements or were able to source a set of used shafts from the boneyard.

    My recommendation is to just try the boot replacement first. Even if the clicking persists, then you've bought yourself some time to source new shafts.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

    Put a smiley after you say that Bub.

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