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  1. #1
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    todd-
    good to know! thanks for the heads up...i will be bolting them in in that case...

    im alright to weld the diff gaurd on right??? i dont see how else you would connect it?
    "Do Not Seek Praise. Seek Criticism."

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  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by pbkid View Post
    todd-
    good to know! thanks for the heads up...i will be bolting them in in that case...

    im alright to weld the diff gaurd on right??? i dont see how else you would connect it?
    can't say since i don't know where it goes.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by pbkid View Post
    todd-
    good to know! thanks for the heads up...i will be bolting them in in that case...

    im alright to weld the diff gaurd on right??? i dont see how else you would connect it?
    Rocky Road welded the prototype on mine 2.5 years ago and I saw no issues develop. Something you may want to research though is the possible need to remove the diff fluid before welding...
    Sent from my "two hands on a keyboard"

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZEUS View Post
    Rocky Road welded the prototype on mine 2.5 years ago and I saw no issues develop. Something you may want to research though is the possible need to remove the diff fluid before welding...
    I assume this is the rear differential. I have never seen a weld on shield. I can’t believe Glen would not build this as a bolt on.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Todd Adams View Post
    I assume this is the rear differential. I have never seen a weld on shield. I can’t believe Glen would not build this as a bolt on.
    Yeah, it's for the rear - at least mine is. He asked me if I would be interested in having one made and installed (welded) for free and I said "SURE!" The install looks great too! I think maybe fabbing bolt in place bracketry would overcomplicate things and render it over-priced.

  6. #6
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    ya, i had it welded on today...the rear axle is welded anyhow so the welder said it wouldnt loose strength with the extra weld....

    now im freaking out... i have NO access to a corded drill, only my cordless that is definately not strong enough to drill through our frame...

    gonna have to get creative

  7. #7
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    Talk to Gill. I remember him telling me how he had to have a shop with a right angle drill drill the holes in his frame for him because there's no room to get a regular drill into some of the spaces.
    "The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong, it usually turns out to be impossible to get at or repair."
    -Douglas Adams, Mostly Harmless

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by pbkid View Post
    ya, i had it welded on today...the rear axle is welded anyhow so the welder said it wouldnt loose strength with the extra weld....

    now im freaking out... i have NO access to a corded drill, only my cordless that is definately not strong enough to drill through our frame...

    gonna have to get creative
    Hmmmmm...ya got a handgun around there?.........

  9. #9
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    Wink

    Quote Originally Posted by pbkid View Post
    ya, i had it welded on today...the rear axle is welded anyhow so the welder said it wouldnt loose strength with the extra weld....

    now im freaking out... i have NO access to a corded drill, only my cordless that is definately not strong enough to drill through our frame...

    gonna have to get creative
    I installed mine & it took multiple drills for me to get the job done. I used a 90 degree "big" Milwaukee corded drill (borrowed from Dad !) for the main mounting holes in the frame & where that wouldn't fit I used a smaller DeWalt 90 degree rechargeable drill (borrowed from Home Depot ) for a couple on the frame and for the small holes along the sheet metal under your door I used a pneumatic 90 degree (borrowed from my mechanic/beer buddy ) with different length bits (**ground shanks down on like 2 bits IIRC).

    Also..on the frame...I marked each hole, then center-punched, drilled each hole small first (pilot) and then drilled a mid-sized hole followed by the desired size. Don't ask me what the desired size was as I can't 'member. (Alzheimer's )

    Could probably do it with just the latter two drills I mentioned....but, have to admit the big 'ole' Milwaukee made short work of the first frame holes I used it on while the DeWalt had to work some (not as much torque). The pneumatic 90 degree drill "barely" fit to do the small holes & had to be positioned in various positions with different length bits to pull off the job. This was my experience anyways!

    **IIRC I had to grind one bit's shank down alot as the pneumatic drill & bit combo barely fit in place to start drilling each hole. Had to insert "shorter-modified" bit into hole of slider...position pneumatic drill with chuck open..close chuck & drill hole until chuck bottoms out on slider...remove drill & bit...insert "longer-modifed" bit into same hole of slider...close chuck & drill hole through...repeat for next hole!

    Hope this helps!


    P.S.---The only other way I could see making it easier to drill the sheet-metal small holes under the door would be to some how mark the holes & remove sliders..drill holes..than re-install sliders & put in your small bolts. I didn't do it this way because I had already mounted my big bolts into the frame to hold the slider in position along with a floor jack & block of wood to coax it in position while I did the small holes with pneumatic drill.
    Last edited by Jolly Roger VX'er : 05/08/2009 at 05:28 PM
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  10. #10
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    ya, i found a corded drill i will be using tomorrow to make it work...got all the bits...now all i gotta do is spend the time to do it..

    i have a heavy duty 90 degree attachment for drills so i should be good there..i have both a smaller and a larger 90 bit (use it at work all the time)

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