Super VXer
Do not weld to the frame! ever. Your sliders need to be bolted. You can crawl under mine in Moab if you want but if you weld to the frame it will crack at some point. Frames are made to flex and are heat treated. Once you disturb this heat treatment and flex the frame it will start to develop cracks near the weld. Now on the other hand if you look at our jeep where the cage is welded to the frame the entire structure is now rigid so there is no flexing.Originally Posted by pbkid
Todd
Last edited by Todd Adams : 05/07/2009 at 06:08 AM
Super VXer
todd-
good to know! thanks for the heads up...i will be bolting them in in that case...
im alright to weld the diff gaurd on right??? i dont see how else you would connect it?
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Super VXer
can't say since i don't know where it goes.
Super VXer
Rocky Road welded the prototype on mine 2.5 years ago and I saw no issues develop. Something you may want to research though is the possible need to remove the diff fluid before welding...
Sent from my "two hands on a keyboard"
Super VXer
I assume this is the rear differential. I have never seen a weld on shield. I can’t believe Glen would not build this as a bolt on.
Super VXer
Yeah, it's for the rear - at least mine is. He asked me if I would be interested in having one made and installed (welded) for free and I said "SURE!" The install looks great too! I think maybe fabbing bolt in place bracketry would overcomplicate things and render it over-priced.
Super VXer
ya, i had it welded on today...the rear axle is welded anyhow so the welder said it wouldnt loose strength with the extra weld....
now im freaking out... i have NO access to a corded drill, only my cordless that is definately not strong enough to drill through our frame...
gonna have to get creative
Super VXer
Talk to Gill. I remember him telling me how he had to have a shop with a right angle drill drill the holes in his frame for him because there's no room to get a regular drill into some of the spaces.
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Super VXer
Hmmmmm...ya got a handgun around there?...ya, i had it welded on today...the rear axle is welded anyhow so the welder said it wouldnt loose strength with the extra weld....
now im freaking out... i have NO access to a corded drill, only my cordless that is definately not strong enough to drill through our frame...
gonna have to get creative...
Super VXer
I installed mine & it took multiple drills for me to get the job done. I used a 90 degree "big" Milwaukee corded drill (borrowed from Dadya, i had it welded on today...the rear axle is welded anyhow so the welder said it wouldnt loose strength with the extra weld....
now im freaking out... i have NO access to a corded drill, only my cordless that is definately not strong enough to drill through our frame...
gonna have to get creative!) for the main mounting holes in the frame & where that wouldn't fit I used a smaller DeWalt 90 degree rechargeable drill (borrowed from Home Depot
) for a couple on the frame and for the small holes along the sheet metal under your door I used a pneumatic 90 degree (borrowed from my mechanic/beer buddy
) with different length bits (**ground shanks down on like 2 bits IIRC).
Also..on the frame...I marked each hole, then center-punched, drilled each hole small first (pilot) and then drilled a mid-sized hole followed by the desired size. Don't ask me what the desired size was as I can't 'member. (Alzheimer's
Could probably do it with just the latter two drills I mentioned....but, have to admit the big 'ole' Milwaukee made short work of the first frame holes I used it on while the DeWalt had to work some (not as much torque). The pneumatic 90 degree drill "barely" fit to do the small holes & had to be positioned in various positions with different length bits to pull off the job. This was my experience anyways!
**IIRC I had to grind one bit's shank down alot as the pneumatic drill & bit combo barely fit in place to start drilling each hole. Had to insert "shorter-modified" bit into hole of slider...position pneumatic drill with chuck open..close chuck & drill hole until chuck bottoms out on slider...remove drill & bit...insert "longer-modifed" bit into same hole of slider...close chuck & drill hole through...repeat for next hole!
Hope this helps!
P.S.---The only other way I could see making it easier to drill the sheet-metal small holes under the door would be to some how mark the holes & remove sliders..drill holes..than re-install sliders & put in your small bolts. I didn't do it this way because I had already mounted my big bolts into the frame to hold the slider in position along with a floor jack & block of wood to coax it in position while I did the small holes with pneumatic drill.
Last edited by Jolly Roger VX'er : 05/08/2009 at 05:28 PM
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