Finally took VX'EN for a real drive...

[Riff Raff]

Thank you "Jo" for your feedback. I've said it before, and I'll say it again--- unsprung weight, boys, unsprung weight!!! Remember your factory OEM tires weighed only 34 lbs. Then people put on heavy "LT" series tires that are easily 20--30 lbs (or possibly more) greater in weight per tire. Then, multiply that times 4 tires. Yikes!!!

Consequently, your VX launch, MPG, and braking are greatly affected in a negative way. The added tire weight on your small VX OEM brakes can easily result in you causing a rear-end collision, especially at freeways speeds encountering a sudden grid-lock traffic jam ahead (very dangerous). Your maximum ceiling tire weight cap should be no greater than 10 lbs over OEM; or a maximum weight of 44 lbs per tire!!!

That's why I keep harping on two(2) specific tires for those who want an A/T version tire; they are:

PRO-COMP A/T in P285/60R18 (31.4" O.D./43 lbs)
GENERAL GRABBER AT2 in P275/65R18 (32" O.D./44 lbs)

The lightest M/T version tire on the market seems to be the YOKOHAMA - GEOLANDAR M/T+ in tire size LT285/75R16 (33" O.D./52 lbs), but this tire is NOT available in 18".

My next tire for my VX will be the GENERAL GRABBER AT2 in tire size P275/65R18 (32" O.D./44 lbs) at less than $150 each!!!

The true "secret" is to focus on only "P" series (aka: P-Metric) tires for the VX. For those who want an M/T version tire should focus on Load Range C or D tires. Stay clear of all Load Range E tires, as the E's are just way too damn heavy for the small sporty and nimble VX.

Thank you "Jo" for helping me prove my point. Riff Raff

[pbkid]

Thank you "Jo" for your feedback. I've said it before, and I'll say it again--- unsprung weight, boys, unsprung weight!!! Remember your factory OEM tires weighed only 34 lbs. Then people put on heavy "LT" series tires that are easily 20--30 lbs (or possibly more) greater in weight per tire. Then, multiply that times 4 tires. Yikes!!!

Consequently, your VX launch, MPG, and braking are greatly affected in a negative way. The added tire weight on your small VX OEM brakes can easily result in you causing a rear-end collision, especially at freeways speeds encountering a sudden grid-lock traffic jam ahead (very dangerous). Your maximum ceiling tire weight cap should be no greater than 10 lbs over OEM; or a maximum weight of 44 lbs per tire!!!

That's why I keep harping on two(2) specific tires for those who want an A/T version tire; they are:

PRO-COMP A/T in P285/60R18 (31.4" O.D./43 lbs)
GENERAL GRABBER AT2 in P275/65R18 (32" O.D./44 lbs)

The lightest M/T version tire on the market seems to be the YOKOHAMA - GEOLANDAR M/T+ in tire size LT285/75R16 (33" O.D./52 lbs), but this tire is NOT available in 18".

My next tire for my VX will be the GENERAL GRABBER AT2 in tire size P275/65R18 (32" O.D./44 lbs) at less than $150 each!!!

The true "secret" is to focus on only "P" series (aka: P-Metric) tires for the VX. For those who want an M/T version tire should focus on Load Range C or D tires. Stay clear of all Load Range E tires, as the E's are just way too damn heavy for the small sporty and nimble VX.

Thank you "Jo" for helping me prove my point. Riff Raff

you are absolutely correct when it comes to a stock VX...stock with larger tires=trouble, braking problems (which i have noticed myself lately)

thus is why my first thing done to my VX after moab will be drilled and slotted rotors...i only have 31's but it is enough for me to have braking problems.

however, i also enjoy the approved 4wheeling abilities, which i use on a regular basis so i am going to be making the proper movements to make my vehicle still safe to drive at highway speeds...

[Marlin]

you are absolutely correct when it comes to a stock VX...stock with larger tires=trouble, braking problems (which i have noticed myself lately)

thus is why my first thing done to my VX after moab will be drilled and slotted rotors...i only have 31's but it is enough for me to have braking problems.

however, i also enjoy the approved 4wheeling abilities, which i use on a regular basis so i am going to be making the proper movements to make my vehicle still safe to drive at highway speeds...

You should do brakes first. Anyone who modifies their vehicle should always start with the safety aspects first. Making your vehicle go faster/(in this case higher) does no go good if you can't slow it down.
As far as slotted rotors, I recommend no. Slotted rotors are for race cars, they go from 100+ mph and quickly brake which actually begins to burn their brake pads,so the slots actually slice off the surface allowing them to maintain consistent braking characteristics. This would be useless on our <100mph VXs and actually artificially wear your pads. Drilled on the other hand just helps dissipate heat and break dust which is good, as long as they are a little bit countersunk. I have cross drilled rotors on mine with the best ceramic pads I could get, and it seems to have improved a bit. My shock replacement helped the most. No more diving on hard braking. So if you are driving to Moab, I highly suggest brakes!!!

As far as Riffraff and unsprung weight on our light little PUVs....X2.

[Marlin]

At the recommendation of Tone, I went and got some Trailhead auto deflators. Awesome!!!! I got the 15-40 psi set. I started out at 34lbs, and had them deflated to 18lbs in less than 10 minutes. I could have cut 3 or 4 minutes off of that, but I have TPMS sensors on the valve stems that have to be removed with a spanner wrench. That takes a few extra minutes, damn anti-theft...
I will repost times with fillup once I get my CO2 tank filled. It took about 10 minutes more to refill them off of my big compressor in the garage.
These are not a necessity, but I cannot imagine trying to airdown at the trailhead one tire at a time manually. These things were really accurate, all within .5 lbs each, and that was on first time, with just 1 turn adjustment.
I highly recommend, Ebay, about 60bucks shipped.

[Marlin]

In light of first real drive, I took mine out and got it stuck for the first time. Luckily, there was a friend with me, unluckily, he drives a jeep and had to pull me out. I buried the Vx above the frame in mud, all the way over the cladding on the passenger side, on the driver's side I could only see the top of my tire, I almost got out on my own, but had to keep it running since the tail pipe was under water/mud. It wasn't worth the risk.
The AT2s did great, until they were mud bogged, but they cleaned out real quick and through really nice mud chunks
The Vx performed flawlessly, its all about picking your lines, and I didn't pick right. But on the other holes, I made it through without a problem. My friend in the Jeep wouldn't even try some of them...chicken.

[pbkid]

You should do brakes first. Anyone who modifies their vehicle should always start with the safety aspects first. Making your vehicle go faster/(in this case higher) does no go good if you can't slow it down.
As far as slotted rotors, I recommend no. Slotted rotors are for race cars, they go from 100+ mph and quickly brake which actually begins to burn their brake pads,so the slots actually slice off the surface allowing them to maintain consistent braking characteristics. This would be useless on our <100mph VXs and actually artificially wear your pads. Drilled on the other hand just helps dissipate heat and break dust which is good, as long as they are a little bit countersunk. I have cross drilled rotors on mine with the best ceramic pads I could get, and it seems to have improved a bit. My shock replacement helped the most. No more diving on hard braking. So if you are driving to Moab, I highly suggest brakes!!!

As far as Riffraff and unsprung weight on our light little PUVs....X2.

nice! be careful mudding, our alternator is mounted towards the bottom of the motor and lots of water + alternator = bad!

on the braking issue, 2 things
1- i will never put drilled rotors on my vehicle because it has been proven to severely weaken rotors. slotted rotors however do not comprimize (sp) the strength of the rotor, and release 'gasses' that build up on the pad, not actually heat. (contrary to popular belief)

2- most VX owners recommend using stock pads with aftermarket rotors, i guess the ceramic pads (like what you have) do not do the vehicle justice, however, the stock pads are supposed to work extremely well with aftermarket (R1 is my preference) rotors.

oh, and the reason that i havent changed my brakes before i do any other modifications (which is much better, i know) is that my pads had 25% wear left on them when i did the lift, and i wanted to get through the winter without having to spend 2 days under my VX (basically just waiting until i can take a weekend at the parents house with their huge garage and tons of tools in the sun to do the brake job)

you are correct that one should not modify or change the weight of a vehicle before they upgrade the braking system... i also have a natural tendency to stay much farther back at high speeds than most people, i very very rarely get myself into a situation where i need to lock up my brakes (twice since i owned my VX, 5 years)...

usually i try to stay at least 4 seconds behind the car in front of me at 80+ speeds (that is average in colorado to drive 80-90 mph on the freeway)

[Marlin]

I am well aware of the poor design of putting all the wear and tear components below the engine, since I am currently replacing my AC compressor and already replaced power steering pump. My neighbor has an old rodeo, alternator, AC and the like are above the engine, not below. I built a plastic "skid" plate, or rather splash guard. It seemed to have done the job well enough. Not too much mud under there, I also checked the differential vent lines, all clear. Spent the last 1.5 hours cleaning it up.

As far as drilled rotors, not sure what making them weaker really means, they are not a load bearing component? I suppose if someone hit you from the side, you may have a higher risk of cracking one, but at that point, what difference does it make?
I do understand needing the garage for brakes, for what mods that were not done in the shop, I have done in the last 2 months in my driveway, but its much nicer here in SC, mostly 40s and 50s, today its about 80. A little too warm for me.

[pbkid]

nice, you should take some pics of your mud cover you built, i love to go mudding but everyone around here scared me out of doing it in my VX because of fear of ruining the alternator...

i have read this in car magazines (not sure which one), but they say that when drilled rotors get slim, they have a tendency to crack around the drilled places (thats what's meant by weakened)...and actually if i remember right i read that in an article on the first gen STI vs. the newer STI (first gen had crossdrilled and slotted Brembo brakes and the new STI has 'subaru' braking system that is ceramic pads but not drilled or slotted) and that is the reason the newer STI's no longer have the drilled and slotted rotors...(dont quote me on that though, and it could also be that they estimated around $1200 for a brake job on the first gen STI because of the Brembo brakes)

[Marlin]

nice, you should take some pics of your mud cover you built, i love to go mudding but everyone around here scared me out of doing it in my VX because of fear of ruining the alternator...

i have read this in car magazines (not sure which one), but they say that when drilled rotors get slim, they have a tendency to crack around the drilled places (thats what's meant by weakened)...and actually if i remember right i read that in an article on the first gen STI vs. the newer STI (first gen had crossdrilled and slotted Brembo brakes and the new STI has 'subaru' braking system that is ceramic pads but not drilled or slotted) and that is the reason the newer STI's no longer have the drilled and slotted rotors...(dont quote me on that though, and it could also be that they estimated around $1200 for a brake job on the first gen STI because of the Brembo brakes)

LOL, I would imagine that is the reason, cause Porsche and bmw and so on are running drilled/slotted rotors. never heard of a cracked rotor though. The splash guard is just the medium sized mixing tray from Lowes, in the concrete aisle, cut to fit the front from the first cross member and the lip fits under the front cladding. I bolted it on in the front and ziptied the rear for easy access. Here are a few pics, if you look at the front tire, imagine how deep the center was...