Finally took VX'EN for a real drive...

[JoFotoz]

WOW...I'd forgotten just how fast/responsive/Fun to drive an unmodified un-lifted VX is!


The VX'EN and The ORW...its like a house of ill repute!

I really REALLY enjoyed the unmodified feel...


Gonna go roll some sushi now..


...and Sake bomb myself.

jo

[pbkid]

nice!! glad you had fun!!

ya i've actually been wondering lately if i wanna get any bigger than my 31's, my VX is still very quick and has great handling with just 2" lift and 31's

[Riff Raff]

Thank you "Jo" for your feedback. I've said it before, and I'll say it again--- unsprung weight, boys, unsprung weight!!! Remember your factory OEM tires weighed only 34 lbs. Then people put on heavy "LT" series tires that are easily 20--30 lbs (or possibly more) greater in weight per tire. Then, multiply that times 4 tires. Yikes!!!

Consequently, your VX launch, MPG, and braking are greatly affected in a negative way. The added tire weight on your small VX OEM brakes can easily result in you causing a rear-end collision, especially at freeways speeds encountering a sudden grid-lock traffic jam ahead (very dangerous). Your maximum ceiling tire weight cap should be no greater than 10 lbs over OEM; or a maximum weight of 44 lbs per tire!!!

That's why I keep harping on two(2) specific tires for those who want an A/T version tire; they are:

PRO-COMP A/T in P285/60R18 (31.4" O.D./43 lbs)
GENERAL GRABBER AT2 in P275/65R18 (32" O.D./44 lbs)

The lightest M/T version tire on the market seems to be the YOKOHAMA - GEOLANDAR M/T+ in tire size LT285/75R16 (33" O.D./52 lbs), but this tire is NOT available in 18".

My next tire for my VX will be the GENERAL GRABBER AT2 in tire size P275/65R18 (32" O.D./44 lbs) at less than $150 each!!!

The true "secret" is to focus on only "P" series (aka: P-Metric) tires for the VX. For those who want an M/T version tire should focus on Load Range C or D tires. Stay clear of all Load Range E tires, as the E's are just way too damn heavy for the small sporty and nimble VX.

Thank you "Jo" for helping me prove my point. Riff Raff

[pbkid]

Thank you "Jo" for your feedback. I've said it before, and I'll say it again--- unsprung weight, boys, unsprung weight!!! Remember your factory OEM tires weighed only 34 lbs. Then people put on heavy "LT" series tires that are easily 20--30 lbs (or possibly more) greater in weight per tire. Then, multiply that times 4 tires. Yikes!!!

Consequently, your VX launch, MPG, and braking are greatly affected in a negative way. The added tire weight on your small VX OEM brakes can easily result in you causing a rear-end collision, especially at freeways speeds encountering a sudden grid-lock traffic jam ahead (very dangerous). Your maximum ceiling tire weight cap should be no greater than 10 lbs over OEM; or a maximum weight of 44 lbs per tire!!!

That's why I keep harping on two(2) specific tires for those who want an A/T version tire; they are:

PRO-COMP A/T in P285/60R18 (31.4" O.D./43 lbs)
GENERAL GRABBER AT2 in P275/65R18 (32" O.D./44 lbs)

The lightest M/T version tire on the market seems to be the YOKOHAMA - GEOLANDAR M/T+ in tire size LT285/75R16 (33" O.D./52 lbs), but this tire is NOT available in 18".

My next tire for my VX will be the GENERAL GRABBER AT2 in tire size P275/65R18 (32" O.D./44 lbs) at less than $150 each!!!

The true "secret" is to focus on only "P" series (aka: P-Metric) tires for the VX. For those who want an M/T version tire should focus on Load Range C or D tires. Stay clear of all Load Range E tires, as the E's are just way too damn heavy for the small sporty and nimble VX.

Thank you "Jo" for helping me prove my point. Riff Raff

you are absolutely correct when it comes to a stock VX...stock with larger tires=trouble, braking problems (which i have noticed myself lately)

thus is why my first thing done to my VX after moab will be drilled and slotted rotors...i only have 31's but it is enough for me to have braking problems.

however, i also enjoy the approved 4wheeling abilities, which i use on a regular basis so i am going to be making the proper movements to make my vehicle still safe to drive at highway speeds...

[Marlin]

you are absolutely correct when it comes to a stock VX...stock with larger tires=trouble, braking problems (which i have noticed myself lately)

thus is why my first thing done to my VX after moab will be drilled and slotted rotors...i only have 31's but it is enough for me to have braking problems.

however, i also enjoy the approved 4wheeling abilities, which i use on a regular basis so i am going to be making the proper movements to make my vehicle still safe to drive at highway speeds...

You should do brakes first. Anyone who modifies their vehicle should always start with the safety aspects first. Making your vehicle go faster/(in this case higher) does no go good if you can't slow it down.
As far as slotted rotors, I recommend no. Slotted rotors are for race cars, they go from 100+ mph and quickly brake which actually begins to burn their brake pads,so the slots actually slice off the surface allowing them to maintain consistent braking characteristics. This would be useless on our <100mph VXs and actually artificially wear your pads. Drilled on the other hand just helps dissipate heat and break dust which is good, as long as they are a little bit countersunk. I have cross drilled rotors on mine with the best ceramic pads I could get, and it seems to have improved a bit. My shock replacement helped the most. No more diving on hard braking. So if you are driving to Moab, I highly suggest brakes!!!

As far as Riffraff and unsprung weight on our light little PUVs....X2.

[Marlin]

At the recommendation of Tone, I went and got some Trailhead auto deflators. Awesome!!!! I got the 15-40 psi set. I started out at 34lbs, and had them deflated to 18lbs in less than 10 minutes. I could have cut 3 or 4 minutes off of that, but I have TPMS sensors on the valve stems that have to be removed with a spanner wrench. That takes a few extra minutes, damn anti-theft...
I will repost times with fillup once I get my CO2 tank filled. It took about 10 minutes more to refill them off of my big compressor in the garage.
These are not a necessity, but I cannot imagine trying to airdown at the trailhead one tire at a time manually. These things were really accurate, all within .5 lbs each, and that was on first time, with just 1 turn adjustment.
I highly recommend, Ebay, about 60bucks shipped.

[pbkid]

You should do brakes first. Anyone who modifies their vehicle should always start with the safety aspects first. Making your vehicle go faster/(in this case higher) does no go good if you can't slow it down.
As far as slotted rotors, I recommend no. Slotted rotors are for race cars, they go from 100+ mph and quickly brake which actually begins to burn their brake pads,so the slots actually slice off the surface allowing them to maintain consistent braking characteristics. This would be useless on our <100mph VXs and actually artificially wear your pads. Drilled on the other hand just helps dissipate heat and break dust which is good, as long as they are a little bit countersunk. I have cross drilled rotors on mine with the best ceramic pads I could get, and it seems to have improved a bit. My shock replacement helped the most. No more diving on hard braking. So if you are driving to Moab, I highly suggest brakes!!!

As far as Riffraff and unsprung weight on our light little PUVs....X2.

nice! be careful mudding, our alternator is mounted towards the bottom of the motor and lots of water + alternator = bad!

on the braking issue, 2 things
1- i will never put drilled rotors on my vehicle because it has been proven to severely weaken rotors. slotted rotors however do not comprimize (sp) the strength of the rotor, and release 'gasses' that build up on the pad, not actually heat. (contrary to popular belief)

2- most VX owners recommend using stock pads with aftermarket rotors, i guess the ceramic pads (like what you have) do not do the vehicle justice, however, the stock pads are supposed to work extremely well with aftermarket (R1 is my preference) rotors.

oh, and the reason that i havent changed my brakes before i do any other modifications (which is much better, i know) is that my pads had 25% wear left on them when i did the lift, and i wanted to get through the winter without having to spend 2 days under my VX (basically just waiting until i can take a weekend at the parents house with their huge garage and tons of tools in the sun to do the brake job)

you are correct that one should not modify or change the weight of a vehicle before they upgrade the braking system... i also have a natural tendency to stay much farther back at high speeds than most people, i very very rarely get myself into a situation where i need to lock up my brakes (twice since i owned my VX, 5 years)...

usually i try to stay at least 4 seconds behind the car in front of me at 80+ speeds (that is average in colorado to drive 80-90 mph on the freeway)