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Thread: Does this look right?? One corner done on lift.

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  1. #1
    Member Since
    Nov 2004
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    1999 Ex-Ebony..Fully Line-X'd ..0189...THE "ORW".....matching Line-X'd Trailer made from a written off 2001 Ebony.
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    Dub...ya missed two vital first steps...



    If it were me, I would provide......

    A gallon of Vodka

    Park up at the Red Rock on a "quiet" Tuesday evening!


    Then......get you and Jay to:-

    Jack up the rear end high enough to provide full droop of the rear suspension.
    Set the frame on jack-stands.
    Remove the tires.
    Remove the lower shock mounts.
    (Being able to lift & lower the axle with a floor jack makes getting the lower shock mounts off much easier.)
    Apply some downward pressure (Brittnay, here's where you help) on the top of the axle & the spring should come out with a little pull.
    Reverse process to install.


    jo.....
    VX.info...PLEASE SUPPORT THIS SITE WITH YOUR VOLUNTARY $20 DONATION...
    Absolutely the best $20 you'll spend per year on your VX.


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  2. #2
    Member Since
    Jun 2004
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    99 Astral Silver VX #1872 + 99 Ironman WIP
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    10,613
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    Talking

    Quote Originally Posted by JoFotoz View Post
    Dub...ya missed two vital first steps...



    If it were me, I would provide......

    A gallon of Vodka

    Park up at the Red Rock on a "quiet" Tuesday evening!


    Then......get you and Jay to:-

    Jack up the rear end high enough to provide full droop of the rear suspension.
    Set the frame on jack-stands.
    Remove the tires.
    Remove the lower shock mounts.
    (Being able to lift & lower the axle with a floor jack makes getting the lower shock mounts off much easier.)
    Apply some downward pressure (Brittnay, here's where you help) on the top of the axle & the spring should come out with a little pull.
    Reverse process to install.


    jo.....

    I stand most humbly corrected...WHAT WAS I THINKING???

    I must be getting old & feeble in the head...


    .


    .

  3. #3
    Member Since
    Apr 2008
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    2000, Kaiser, 0134
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    Done...

    Took 45 minutes.

    As for the sway bar links I had to undo them to install the new bushings so it wasn't a big deal.

    Now onto the torsions...

    Next week I'll flip the ball joints, and install tie rods (hoping they are here by then)

    My Front sway bar bushings just shipped today too...

    So next week I'll have EVERYTHING I ordered to do the fronts.

    Very excited.

  4. #4
    Member Since
    Jan 2007
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    VX Skeleton owner
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    I have often thought of using silicone or some industrial adhesive to bond the coils and spacers, but mine have never tried to come out sooo......
    The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable man persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore all progress depends on me.

  5. #5
    Member Since
    Aug 2006
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    1999, Astral, Vehicross, 1619
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ascinder View Post
    I have often thought of using silicone or some industrial adhesive to bond the coils and spacers, but mine have never tried to come out sooo......

    Well we will have to try harder with yours in Moab next year....

  6. #6
    Member Since
    Jun 2002
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    1999,White,Iron Man,1429
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    simple is better

    Sorry guys I just don’t get it. Seems like everyone is overcomplicating this whole lift thing. I also don’t understand why all the parts. I lifted mine almost 8 years ago using some springs I bought from Valley Spring Works in California. At the time they were the only ones that had them. No cups or anything else they just replaced the stock coils.
    I don’t understand why one would need to replace the torsion bars in the front. The OEM rate makes for a good ride no matter where you crank them and that does not change.

    I did have a problem with the rear anti sway bar, it broke due to the added articulation. The bar never did get replaced but then I limit my high speed turns.

    About the only thing I might do is the top A-arm joint flip. The only reason I would do this is to get rid of a few alignment shims that corrected the camber issue after the lift but then it has been OK for over 7 years and anytime you mess with the alignment there is a chance that something may come loose after. I have seen this happen twice but then I don’t rely on anyone but me to align my vehicles.

    The other thing is shocks. Unless you need to replace them for some other reason there is no reason you need new ones for the lift. The stock shocks are some of the best there are and have more than enough stroke to accommodate a mild lift.

    One thing that you have to keep an eye on after the lift is the CV boots. I have had to replace and re lube the CV’s and I feel the OEM boots are a bit thin leading to early failure with the added angle. I installed after market boots several years ago and they seem to be holding up better than the stock ones did.

    I usually don’t make comments to these kind of threads (or even read them) since my days years ago running the 4x4experts web pages. Kind of got burnt out if you know what I mean but Larry asked me to take a look. I learned a long time ago that simple is better.
    Todd

  7. #7
    Member Since
    May 2006
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    SOLD!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Todd Adams View Post
    Sorry guys I just don’t get it. Seems like everyone is overcomplicating this whole lift thing. I also don’t understand why all the parts.--SNIP-- Kind of got burnt out if you know what I mean but Larry asked me to take a look. I learned a long time ago that simple is better.
    Todd
    Agreed. I lifted with the 912s and the front torsion bar crank and so far so good. I've done NOTHING else but trim my cladding.

    Bart

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