Sorry guys I just don’t get it. Seems like everyone is overcomplicating this whole lift thing. I also don’t understand why all the parts. I lifted mine almost 8 years ago using some springs I bought from Valley Spring Works in California. At the time they were the only ones that had them. No cups or anything else they just replaced the stock coils.
I don’t understand why one would need to replace the torsion bars in the front. The OEM rate makes for a good ride no matter where you crank them and that does not change.

I did have a problem with the rear anti sway bar, it broke due to the added articulation. The bar never did get replaced but then I limit my high speed turns.

About the only thing I might do is the top A-arm joint flip. The only reason I would do this is to get rid of a few alignment shims that corrected the camber issue after the lift but then it has been OK for over 7 years and anytime you mess with the alignment there is a chance that something may come loose after. I have seen this happen twice but then I don’t rely on anyone but me to align my vehicles.

The other thing is shocks. Unless you need to replace them for some other reason there is no reason you need new ones for the lift. The stock shocks are some of the best there are and have more than enough stroke to accommodate a mild lift.

One thing that you have to keep an eye on after the lift is the CV boots. I have had to replace and re lube the CV’s and I feel the OEM boots are a bit thin leading to early failure with the added angle. I installed after market boots several years ago and they seem to be holding up better than the stock ones did.

I usually don’t make comments to these kind of threads (or even read them) since my days years ago running the 4x4experts web pages. Kind of got burnt out if you know what I mean but Larry asked me to take a look. I learned a long time ago that simple is better.
Todd