Nope, spacer goes on the bottom as it fits that end of the spring.
Nope, spacer goes on the bottom as it fits that end of the spring.
I stand corrected, as far as "zip tying" the spring in place to avoid it shooting out upon massive flex, how do you go about doing that in this instance? I zip tied the bottom, how are you supposed to zip tie those dudes in there?
I'll have to respectfully disagree with you Tone, & please explain it to me real slow if you have info. I'm unaware of.
The bottom spring cup is tapered, with a stop where the end of the spring seats, to keep it from rotating. The top cup, is flat, with the stock rubber cushion.
It deosn't seem right to put the spacer on the bottom, when the bottom of the 912's is of the same coil shape, designed to engage the "stop" & the top is ground flat, to fit in the flat upper cup.
IMO, the spacers should go in the upper cup, replacing the stock cushion, which is designed to accept the flat end of the spring.
Just my opinion, waiting to hear what you're thoughts are...
And unless longer than stock shocks are installed, I haven't seen a set of 912's drop out. Not too sure that zip ties would be strong enough anyway.
Pic from Independent4X website:
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Last edited by Ldub : 05/30/2008 at 06:38 AM
Don't forget to replace the bumpstop that's also pictured in that image. I still need to extend mine by an inch or so.
I used the Energy Suspensions Bumpstop, (P/N in the lift wiki thread) I used it coupled with my stock one (about 1/4 of it) I Barely rub... If I didn't have the coil spacer I wouldn't hit. With your wheel offset and no coil spacer you should be fine with just the Tall Bumpstop.
Last edited by Maddawg : 12/19/2012 at 03:50 PM
3" suspension lift, shocks: Rancho 9000, tires 33"x11.5", wheels 16"x8", offset= 0, no front sway bar
LDUB's the man...
Called independent 4X, and they confirmed with him.
Thanks everyone... I didn't feel good about it being on the bottom, but it also felt like it snapped into place better, which is why I posed the question.
Looks like I've got to drop the suspension again so I can flip it around... Blech...
Better now than on the trail when the coil launches out.
THANKS!!!
Last edited by taylorRichie : 05/30/2008 at 07:50 AM
Verifying that I make the minimum steps possible to flip the coil.
1- Remove the bolt from the rear Link visible in my pic (proper name?)
2- Remove lower shock bolt.
3- Remove Sway Bar Link bolt.
4- Jack up driver's side tire a little to articulate.
5- Flip coil
6- Re-assemble
Is that the correct plan of attack?
If it were me, I would...
Jack up the rear end high enough to provide full droop of the rear suspension.
Set the frame on jack-stands.
Remove the tires.
Remove the lower shock mounts.
(Being able to lift & lower the axle with a floor jack makes getting the lower shock mounts off much easier.)
Apply some downward pressure (Brittany, here's where you help) on the top of the axle & the spring should come out with a little pull.
Reverse process to install.
I've never found it necessary to disassemble the sway bar or any of the other suspension components other than the lower shock mounts.
But I haven't tried to install a 2" spacer without all the disassembly you mentioned earlier.
However, I have done this install with a 1" spacer, & disco'd nothing more than the lower shock mounts.
Last edited by Ldub : 05/30/2008 at 02:59 PM
After I lifted mine and did the ball joint flip using the stock bolts, one failed shortly after. So.... maybe not a bad idea to go and get yourself 6 new bolts to replace the old ones.![]()