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The previous owner had the radiator replaced and I believe used the wrong size lines that run to my trans. One or both lines leak at the connection despite being extremely tight. And I have a ton of slack on the lines because they hang down. Can anyone confirm the correct size and length for these lines? Or is that info useless because the radiator has been replaced and the new one requires a different size. I'm hoping to tackle this messy job tonight and then add more trans fluid.
at the line to the radiator or the line to the TRan or both? If both probably the wrong line. If at just the radiator might be wrong radiator. If the tran might be wrongradiator and line.
It's the connection where the rubber radiator line meets the metal line from trans. I have a drip that's splashing trans fluid all over the front half of under body.
maybe your hose clamp is too tight and cut the rubber line?Quote:
Originally Posted by bearandbee
It may be a matter of needing two different sized rubber hoses with an adapter needed at the point where the two different hose sizes meet. The lines you're talking about are most likely the trans cooling lines going to the radiator, but if the radiator has been changed, the rubber line size needed for the radiator may not be the same now.
I'd first take measurements of the openings of the metal line-outlets themselves (at the radiator and at the end of the metal line coming from the trans) to determine if they are the same now. It takes more than a tight hose clamp to ensure no leaks, and with the wrong hose size, an over tightened clamp can actually make leaks worse.
I had the same issue. I had to use 4 clamps on each line (8 clamps total), 2 on each connection.
Yes I did overtighten, which cut the hose. Since then I fixed and reattached but still have a leak. I'll start by removing lines and measure the holes. The leaking hose is larger, which made me think its the wrong size.
If needed, The adapter for two hose sizes may save me from buying a new radiator...good idea Y33trekker!
Ok turns out rubber hose was NOT leaking but a few inches above the connection, the metal line has a hair crack that is leaking. Autozone does not carry. I'm gonna call the other parts stores. Any other ideas?
I would think that would be an Isuzu only part.Quote:
Originally Posted by bearandbee
Perhaps contact the magical Merlin at St Charles.
Otherwise, take the steel line off and get it brazed up at a workshop.
Braze it, do not weld it.
Regards
PK
I'm thinking about just pushing the rubber hose up over the crack on the metal line and hope the drops joins the rest of the fluid flow.
You can remove the metal line, take it to a good brake shop and they can bend you a new one using their brake line machine or you can buy a brake line tool and so it yourself using the old line as a patern.
That fatigue crack might keep running. If you've got that much hose why not just shorten the metal pipe - cut the bad section off, deburr, re-attach the hose. Weird that you got a crack in the first place though. Is there an attachment/support missing? Need to find out why it cracked and keep it from happening again...
Possibly a result of over tightening the hose clamps during the radiator replacement?Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowPro48
I'd second the idea of cutting the bad section, etc, it would just depend on the condition and thickness of the rest of the tubing. The stuff that gets used for those types of lines usually seems to be made of thin wall material, so unless it's new, I'm not sure how much luck a person would have flaring/expanding the end like it comes from the factory. Without that flared end, the hose and clamp could simply slip off the end.
if the rubber tube was too big it would make a crease when clamped - the crack will follow that crease - how old the rubber is will probably determine how far the crack will go
The leak was where the metal line was touching the suspension ARM that attached to two front wheels. Vibration and friction slowly wore it down. I could cut and flare or pull the hose up over past the crack and tighten a clamp over it. The hose comes from one of those small trans radiator coolers so I have to remove cladding to attach a longer hose either way. I'm just glad I found the real problem.
Update: installed longer rubber hose and stopped the leak! Added trans fluid and now no more clunk when it downshifts from 2nd to 1st. Yes! Thank you everyone, its like you were all here handing me the wrench!
I got a new radiator installed. A day or two later I was leaking tranny fluid. My rubber hoses were corroded and the mechanic didn't catch it. I went back and they replaced my hoses. Don't know what size they are, but they will corrode over time.
My hoses were relatively new because I have an aftermarket trans cooler added for towing. The clunk sound has returned when the trans downshifts from 2nd to 1st as I come to a stop but I have NO leaks. I don't know if I need to somehow force more trans fluid into the system or just live with it. Since I have the trans cooler and longer lines, I may need more fluid than stock. My front wheel drive is not connected which could be causing the clunk. I've read on the forum that the clunk is pretty widespread and may be normal for our vehicle. I've thought about jacking up rear of vehicle and then adding fluid so that maybe there will be more room in the pan. Please comment if you have the clunk issue and have any advice.
It should take more fluid but the level in the trans itself should be the same. Are you checking with the motor running and having run through the shift sequence?
Yes, we followed the directions and went through the gears.
When was the last time you lubed the u-joints on your drive shaft?
I've never lubed the u joints....ill add to the list....could that be the issue?
I was thinking of jacking the rear up as high as possible and then see if I could dump more fluid in.
It proved to be more of an issue than I considered at one point on the '96 Toyota Tacoma I used to have. I was feeling symptoms and hearing things that sounded serious enough that I had the Toyota dealer check things out just to be sure. I admittedly ended up feeling like something of a 4x4 newbie when they told me it was just the u-joints that needed attention, but, live and learn. There are two grease fittings on our drive shafts, one on the back u-joint (between drive shaft and rear diff), and one at the drive shaft yoke on the front.Quote:
Originally Posted by bearandbee
When dealing with auto-transmissions, I've always heard that overfilling can cause issues just the same as under filling, so I'd just stick with the service manual recommendations and add fluid at the trans fill hole on the passenger side with the vehicle in the same orientation as it will be when you're driving. When it's full enough, it will start to run out of the fill hole. (And same for the rear diff fluid if that's what you were talking about). That's just me though.Quote:
Originally Posted by bearandbee
There is also a grease fitting at the slip joint at the transmission end of the rear drive shaft.Quote:
Originally Posted by Y33TREKker
Grease those puppies up and I bet a few of your noises will go away.
Since we are on the subject of transmission lines, anyone one know which is pressure and which is return? Am installing a transmission oil cooler and new radiator, while I have the front end apart for the timing belt change. Planning on dragging a utility trailer full of my workshop in October when I move to Vegas and figure it won't hurt having this extra cooling capacity, cheap insurance I figure.
That's the one I was referring to when I said yoke. Makes me question whether I've ever lubed any u-joints on the front drive shaft though.Quote:
Originally Posted by MSHardeman
There are a total of 3 grease nipples on the rear drive shaft.
One on each U joint, and one on the slip yoke.
I have not found one on the front drive shaft. (Yet).
PK
Here is a video showing the grease points
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=rzaNXz-ty34
Thank you for the video, Etlsport! I'm sure you just saved me 3 greasy hours.