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So, I wanted to start a thread for info on our differentials and what kinds of fluid to put in. I know we need some LSD in the rear, but I have no idea what to buy or how much.
I also would like to get a good step-by-step from someone who has done their diffs so I can do mine. I did a search and couldn't really find a solid thread about this.
Ldub, I nominate you to write this up for us! :)
Bart
I'm running Royal Purple in there too - check the manual for rec. weights and amounts.
Yeah, I printed the whole thing out last month, I might as well use it, eh? So RP diff fluid in the front and rear, and what about your LSD fluid? What did you put in? Are they easy to drain and fill? Do you need to pump it in or syphon it in like the tranny?Quote:
Originally Posted by ZEUS
Bart
Everybody keeps forgetting I have an open rear diff - no LSD. But to my understanding, Royal Purple has qualities in it comparable to an LSD additive already. Check it out. The front is easy to drain and fill - the rear I think is easy to drain but a little more challenging to fill. The front is just a bolt that is removed - it is the bolt at the very bottom of the 3rd member. It acts as a bolt and a plug. Once fliud stops coming out, put the bolt back in and fill er up until fluid starts coming out of the fill hole then plug it again. I think we had to pump fluid into the rear diff but it has been over a year and a half ago, so I forget.
So there is a drain and fill plug, just like everywhere else. I bet the syphon method will work good.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZEUS
Hopefully some others will chime in with what fluids they are running in their diffs. Thanks, Justin.
Bart
I forgot the brand but I used syn with lsd in the back. Better to be over than under on your lsd. I forget the amounts and numbers but I swear I have a thread on this somewhere. MAKE SURE to be on a level ground. I did not have to use any funnels or syphons at all. I just cut the tip of the bottle to an angle.
I did it recently, I'm probably the only person that didn't go synthetic but I read the bottle and made certain it had all the necessary acronyms other threads said we needed
also, doing this was FAR easier than the tranny job, nothing to remove other than the drain and refill bolts, probably the hardest thing was to find the drain tube for the front axle
and the bottles have nice little tips on them, it wasn't as easy as simply squeezing in the fluid, but it was very easy to squeeze the fluid into a plastic tube and put the tube in the fill hole
going by memory, it should be like 2 hours tops for both, the more times you do it, the quicker it will be
Thanks for the info, It sound like a painless process and besides I like working on my baby.Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Isuzu
I am running Mobil1 and I added a bottle of LSD additive. It won't hurt to put it in, it can hurt if neded and not used and there seemed to be differing opinions on weather or not it was needed with synthetics. It is cheap insurance...somewhere around $5 for a bottle/tube (whatever it came in).
It is a fairly easy job (probably a 2 out of 10). I found my drain hole on the front to be clogged. Also found that a cheap fluid pump helps to make it easier but is not needed. Good luck!
Billy, so Mobile-1 makes a synth for the diffs. I might as well use that since I am already Mobile-1 everywhere else. Thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by Triathlete
Bart
Go for a 5-10 mile drive before you drain, to get as much gunk in suspension as possible...also drains better when warmed up.
As mentioned earlier, the lowest bolt that fastens the front third member is used as the drain...bring a coat hanger under there with you, it'll most likely be clogged.
Look at which side the rear drain hole is on & jack up the other side of the axle a few inches, if you want to drain out the most old stuff possible.
Most gear lubes come in a bottle with a longer tip, so you can squeez them into the fill hole, even though it's on a verticle plane.
I have never done it to my knowledge and am at 50000.
I think they need to add an icon of someone scratching their *** to cover my postings
I asked that question a few years ago. Here's what Tone wrote to me:
Quantities have been posted many times before and are also listing in your owners manual - please try the search function.
Approx amounts are as follows:
Tranny flush - at least 10 qts Dexron III
Tranny filter or drain - 4 qts Dexron III
TOD/Transfer - 2qts Dexron III
Front diff - 1.5qts
Rear diff - 2qts
75/140 in both is fine in Texas unless we have a cold winter
Can't change any fluids too often - see manual for time/mileage periods
@ 30K you also should be having your wheel bearings repacked....
Hope this helps.
Peace.
Tom
012009
Thanks Tom. Much appreciated. I'll be doing this soon with the Reno boys, hopefully.
Bart
Bart,
I just found shop with a couple of good guys, and they are pushing the "green" thing. They use Amsoil exclusively and I recently had them replace my front and rear diff. fluid, transmission fluid, and transfer case fluid with the stuff. Apparently Amsoil has been "synthetic" since like 1920 (it's a corn based lubricant) and it's supposed to last forever. Well, not really, but Amsoil states that the transmission fluid is good for 500,000 miles. They also state that their oil is good for 25,000 miles between changes. There are some additives that you have to pour in every now and then, but that's about it. I didn't do the oil because I just don't trust a 25,000 mile oil yet.
Anyway, all of that is to say that when they where changing the fluids out they said that the old stuff was in fantastic shape and could have gone another 70,000 miles (the VX just turned 70k after Moab). To my knowledge those fluids where never changed by the previous owner so it seems like Isuzu put some good stuff in there to begin with.
Cool, thanks for the info, Mark. Our VXes are the same age...that's so cute. :p :laughing:
I had my diffs done right before I left Chicago, so its time.
Bart
I would also add that we can use the ATF fluid for our power steering fluid.Quote:
Originally Posted by tomdietrying
So when getting a case - get a bit more to flush the power steering juice.
And-
Probably doesn't affect you, in your temperature zone - but the manual has different viscosities for fluid for front and back diffs. Others should check their local low temp for proper selection.
I did all my fluids myself last year. Pretty painless. Maybe I can do a how to for all if needed....
Some Data sheets:
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/fluids.jpg
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...capacities.jpg
and another list..
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da.../key_specs.jpg
might help some people.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MSHardeman
I'm completely in agreementalness with Mark...I have run nothing but Amsoil in every orfice since about 20k, & I think my oil usage during the Moab excursion (1 qt. in almost 2500 mi.) speaks for itself.
It's more expen$ive to use @ regular change intervals, & there's no WAY I'd go 25k on an oil change...but there's nothing too good for Suzy.:thumbup:
IMO, it's the "good stuff".
If you do any water crossings you will want to change your diff fluid more often as water can get in through the breathers (unless you have extended them to higher ground).
Kenny,
Thank you for posting those!
I never had a manual, and those specs will also (hopefully) help sell my '99.
Thanks again!
---JIM---
Yes, thanks Kenny. I know I have all this info in the manual, but you just made it nice and easy. I think I am going to go buy some fluids today and try to get the diffs dones this weekend.
Bart
I notice in the above post #17, the timing belt change interval is 100,000 miles. Would that also apply to the JDM 3.2L engine??
I believe our 3.2L engines are dual overhead cams - aren't they??
The single overhead cam 3.2L engine used in most Rodeos and Jackeroos in Australia requires changing at 100,000 KM (62,000miles).
I have just ticked over 104,000 KM and want to be safe.
Appreciate your input guys.
PK
I don't like doing things unless I am 100% sure.
Can someone point out which is the drain and which is the fill? I assume the big plug that is high up is the fill port. Now, according to Dub's earlier post, the lowest bolt should be the drain, so which one is it exactly?
Fill???
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...frontdiff2.jpg
Drain???
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...frontdiff1.jpg
In the above photo you can clearly see the dripping problem I have also. I think Jharris might be right about it being the seal there. The manual mentions this as a potential problem.
Bart
It's hard to tell from this angle, but I think it's this one...Quote:
Originally Posted by nfpgasmask
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/0001.jpg
In any event, it's the one closest to the ground.:_wrench:
And you are correct in your assumtion that the upper ones are the fill/level check holes.
You're the best, Dub. I figured that was it, but with your red circle, now I am certain.
Thanks -Bart
One more thing, does anyone know the size of the socket needed for the diffs? I need to get one I think.
Thanks - Bart
:_wrench: Don't know the size, but you could give it a shot with a large crescent wrench. Snug it up tight & give it a few persuasive gestures with the heel of your palm...:_wrench:...:thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by nfpgasmask
Worst case scenario, you bloody up some knuckles, learn new swear words, & have to clean up the head of the plug with a file...so a socket will fit.:smilewink
hmm i forget the size.. i want to say the rear is 24mm.. but it could also be 25 :_confused
word to the wise... take the fill plug off first... its unfortunate to get the fluid drained out only to realize you cant get the fill plug off
Good tip, Etl, thanks. I was going to do everything yesterday, but I just didn't get to it. :( Next week hopefully.Quote:
Originally Posted by etlsport
Bart
Royal Purple front/rear...No LSD needed
Is there a need to use anything to reseal the drain hole? What do you guys use?
I never use anything to reseal the fill or drain, but you could use some silicone gasket maker like permatex ultrablack. It's high temp and largely impervious to almost all automotive fluids. Mine have never leaked or seeped, so if yours does, check for it being cross threaded, and also check the part of the plugs seating surface for knicks or burrs.
OK, I am right in the middle of doing this right now, and looking at the rear diff capacities Kenny posted earlier, it says 2.3 quarts on list and 3.2 quarts on the other?????????????
WHICH ONE IS IT???? Also, does anyone know the torque specs for the drain and fill holes?
Thanks - Bart
From the knowlege base on the left side-bar...:smilewink
CAPACITIES
Oil change: w/filter 4.3 qt. (4.0L)
Automatic trans: 9.1 qt. (8.6L)
Transfer case: 2.0 qt. (1.9L)
Front differential: 1.5 qt. (1.4L)
Rear differential: 3.2 qt. (3.0L)
Fuel tank: 22.5 gal. (85L)
Cooling system: 7.4 qt. (7.1L)
Refrigerant: R134a, 1.43 lb. (650g)
Compressor: PAG, 3.0 oz. (90cc)
OK well, one list says 3.2, and one says 2.3, that is why I am confused. Furthermore, I put in roughly 2 quarts and then it started to dribble out. Is that enough? Or do I need to get another quart in there????Quote:
Originally Posted by Ldub
Thanks,
Bart
Once it dribbles out, it's full. It would be a good idea to check it in a couple of days, just to make sure.:_wrench:Quote:
Originally Posted by nfpgasmask
Hi the diff plugs should have a thin copper ring the same as the transfer and gear box have - in adddition i wouldn't leave the timing belt for the 100,000 miles that Isuzu recommend - 100,000 km maybe but not miles
cheers
Steve
Thanks Steve, I thought that little question had passed over everyones head.Quote:
Originally Posted by Greasemonkey
Looks like I am up for a timing belt and tensioner change then. Another weekend with the Mrs nagging that I don't do anything for her.
Oh well - amazing how my hearing deteriorates after a few beers.:)
PK
just curious.. when checking the fluid in the rear diff.. i take the filler plug out and there is a pressure release - hissing like opening a bottle of soda for the first time.. level seems fine, it dribbles out once the plug is removed completely.. dont have any issues with it.. just something that strikes me as odd as i dont see any reason there should be pressure buildup in the diff
anyone else experience this?
Eric,
I know the front pumpkin has a breather tube on the driver's side. I've never looked for one on the rear. If there is one and your's is clogged, that could cause the pressure differential.
Tom