3" lift kit, smart or not so smart idea....?

[HeckaTrebeka]

This kit has a lot of really good lift parts, it's expensive but most of it's completely worth the price.

However, you still need a diff drop which isn't included in the lift kit. Even if you just start with new coil springs and torsion bar crank, get a front 2" diff drop. It's essential to keep the CVs in good condition.

Can't I just get those extended CV boots I saw somewhere on rocky-road? Is the issue with the CV joints that they start leaking lube at such a sharp angle?

[tom4bren]

Can't I just get those extended CV boots I saw somewhere on rocky-road? Is the issue with the CV joints that they start leaking lube at such a sharp angle?

1. CV's don't like agressive angles - causes them to wear out quicker.

2. Your CV's have 'worn in'. With the lift, your bearings inside the CV will run at a different location in the outer race (green cup). The bearings moving into & out of that groove may cause them to fail.

3. The agressive angle of the CV will probably cause your boot to split or even tear in two. That's the most common problem lifted VX's experience. If you don't catch it immediately, the joint will run dry & fail.

So far, there doesn't seem to be much promise that aftermarket boots really last any length of time with the agressive angles. If you go that route, let us know how it works out for you.

[Marlin]

My turn I guess. I lifted mine 4 yrs ago, OME 919s, rancho9000xl shocks, greasable sway bar bsushing front and rear, ball joint flip and low profile bump stops, front locker. I run 34" kevlar MTRs. I NEVER disconnect either sway bar, just installed the greasable bushings, no problems. I wheel mine quite a bit, Moab, KS, GA, NC, SC etc. I have minimal rubbing, only in the rear on descent braking, which is since the rear axle is raked so far forward. I removed the front fender liners and cut the bottom off of the front cladding.
It handles fine, drove all the way form KC, MO to Seattle, stopped in Kansas and Moab for some wheeling. No issues, mid teens on MPG.
I did do the diff drop when I installed the SFIFS kit. Sometimes wish I hadn't. Although it does straighten out CVs, I have since lowered the front back down, the offroad performance is significantly better than when I had the front cranked up high, which puts the CVs at a somewhat negative angle. CVs don't like that
There is a downfall to the diff drop, it then changes the angle for the front prop shaft CV. I have already replaced that, and subsequently have another torn boot. THe boot is flanged in, so really no legitimate way to fix that without replacing it. I have manual front hubs, so I only "drive" the front end when offroading. It still spins at the whims of TOD, but not under load.
I HIGHLY recommend the Ranchos without the incab adjuster, the stiff stock suspension is a killer offroad, dial the ranchos down to one and it is much softer on the trails. I street them all at 9. I also strongly recommend 919s instead of 912s or 913s. They are much stiffer, and a little taller, I have them in my wife's trooper as well. Bump stops are nice, but not a neccessity.
I wouldn't touch the calmini kit, and would piece together your own form Indy based on what you want your truck to do.

[tom4bren]

I did do the diff drop when I installed the SFIFS kit. Sometimes wish I hadn't. Although it does straighten out CVs, I have since lowered the front back down, the offroad performance is significantly better than when I had the front cranked up high, which puts the CVs at a somewhat negative angle. CVs don't like that

Marlin,

I have a set of unmodified diff brackets if you're interested.

Tom