Having trouble removing shocks.. HELP

[Osteomata]

Ldub, Can I get some clarification on this here?
I have jacked up the car such that I had plenty of space to work, but did not actually raise the tire completely off the ground. In this position, I was able to remove the top shock nut and the lower shock nut. Since I have the wheel extended with the jack, I am able to physically compress the old shock enough such that I can actually remove the verticle pin from the upper frame hole. Doesn't this suggest that I have no pressure or torque on the lower bolt, and thus would not need to seperately jack up the lower control arm? Am I misunderstanding the forces and connection points?

What he say...

There should be a jackstand under the frame,(EVERY time a tire leaves the ground) then use whatever jacking device you're using, to jack up the lower control arm to remove any tension from the shock mount. Just a little at a time, until the pressure of the torsion bar is relieved from the shock mount.

A pickle fork can also come in real handy...

[Ldub]

Am I misunderstanding the forces and connection points?

Nope...sounds like I was misunderstanding the problem...

The pickle fork wouldn't be of much help on the front shock, but is real handy for prying the lower mount off the lug on the rears.

FWIW, I find it easier to get er' up on jack stand(s), & remove the wheel/tire, so I've got more room to work, or swing a hammer...

Like Eric said, spin the nut on the end of the bolt to protect the threads...maybe a pin punch, or a drift punch, centered on the bolt & then ...

It's really hard to help from this distance...

Oh, BTW, thanks for posting this...last night I had bizarre dreams about changing shocks on my truck...

[Daly]

The problem you are having is why I went to Sears and paid the $20/per shock. It took them almost 1.5 hours to get the old oems off. One they cut off with a torch. Put the new ones on in 15 minutes.

[tom4bren]

Lesson learned:

If/when you install new shocks, apply anti-sieze to the bolt shoulders during assembly.

We reamed one of the bushings out of a differential bracket for this very same reason. The bolt will corrode and bond to the shock over time.

[Ruflyf]

Attempted this same project and ran into the same issues. Mine seem to be seized as well. Just like already mentioned the bolt turns, the top is loos and non binding, however the bolt just doesnt want to back out. Didnt have any more time to dedicate to the project today so bolted it back together and sprayed both sides real good.

One problem I noticed with protecting the threads and just hitting the end of the bolt is the bracket on the backside by the bolt head will start to bend. Afterall it is pretty thin metal for a mounting bracket.

Going to try a gear puller, or maybe vice grip the two brackets together so that when hitting the bolt it'll be more of a stiff assembly rather than the rear bracket taking all of the force.

[Ldub]

Attempted this same project and ran into the same issues. Mine seem to be seized as well.

Hey Ruf

Good ta see ya still kick'n around...

with the /shock project!