Need ideas for a locking hitch pin WITH Ron skid in place

[Ldub]

Kat,

Here is what I was referring to when I mentioned a "sleeved" pin the other night.

Removing the sleeve, then inserting the pin from one side & the sleeve from the other, provides just enough increased clearance for me to get the pin into mine. (with the hole moved aft)

[VX KAT]

You aren't trying to install the skid with the pin/bolt/screw in place are you?

Kat,

Here is what I was referring to when I mentioned a "sleeved" pin the other night.

Removing the sleeve, then inserting the pin from one side & the sleeve from the other, provides just enough increased clearance for me to get the pin into mine. (with the hole moved aft)

Yes, actually Mav I've tried it both ways....but because with the skid in place, the pin has to go in at an angle..it doesn't work that way. So I thought, put it in first, then I could put the nut on after the skid is in place. The problem, I can't GET IT OFF without removing the skid.

Yesterday when I was fitting it/playing with it, while at Fastenal, I realized it IS equivalent to a locking pin...cuz you can't get that pin out without some major cutting of the skid, and fighting with the cladding as well, since it's so close.

Dub- I think you're saying with the sleeve removed, the skinner pin can be inserted at just a little bit of an angle and get through?
When you attach the lock barrel, is it touching your skid at all or does it just clear as well?

Can you give me a measurement...from the fore side of your 2nd hole, using the center of that hole as your horizontal marker, to where your cladding touches the tube?
I know cladding can be in different positions, but this would at least give me a ballpark.

[tom4bren]

Junster,

Our hitches can handle the draw weight just fine. It's just tongue weight that is limited. In my discussions with Welder Guy yesterday, we decided that we will go ahead and try to fab up the frame to frame version that is hidden behind the rear cladding. As far as I can tell, this hitch will replace that little tube bumper we gots behind the cladding so it'll actuall make for a stronger rear end & give us all the tongue weight that the suspension can handle.

Gotta help Welder Guy out a little since he got laid off & his shop is his sole means of income now.

As far as trailer light wiring, I just made all my connections inside the VX and keep the wire coiled up in the jack cubby. When I need the trailer lights, I just run the wires out the back door.

Tom

[Ldub]

Dub- I think you're saying with the sleeve removed, the skinner pin can be inserted at just a little bit of an angle and get through?
When you attach the lock barrel, is it touching your skid at all or does it just clear as well?

Can you give me a measurement...from the fore side of your 2nd hole, using the center of that hole as your horizontal marker, to where your cladding touches the tube?
I know cladding can be in different positions, but this would at least give me a ballpark.

20.6248 mm...

Or about 13/16" iff'n yer a MerIkin (no, not a merkin...)

And yes, that's exactly what I'm saying...

It provides just enough angle to slide the pin in first, then slide the sleeve in from the other side. Nothing touches when locked in place.

Mine is different from the one I posted the pic of, mine looks like this: