Originally Posted by vt_maverick
Kat,
Here is what I was referring to when I mentioned a "sleeved" pin the other night.
Removing the sleeve, then inserting the pin from one side & the sleeve from the other, provides just enough increased clearance for me to get the pin into mine. (with the hole moved aft)
Yes, actually Mav I've tried it both ways....but because with the skid in place, the pin has to go in at an angle..it doesn't work that way. So I thought, put it in first, then I could put the nut on after the skid is in place. The problem, I can't GET IT OFF without removing the skid.
Yesterday when I was fitting it/playing with it, while at Fastenal, I realized it IS equivalent to a locking pin...cuz you can't get that pin out without some major cutting of the skid, and fighting with the cladding as well, since it's so close.
Dub- I think you're saying with the sleeve removed, the skinner pin can be inserted at just a little bit of an angle and get through?
When you attach the lock barrel, is it touching your skid at all or does it just clear as well?
Can you give me a measurement...from the fore side of your 2nd hole, using the center of that hole as your horizontal marker, to where your cladding touches the tube?
I know cladding can be in different positions, but this would at least give me a ballpark.
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