Need ideas for a locking hitch pin WITH Ron skid in place

[etlsport]

Riff raff mades a good suggestion... I was going to say get two shorter bolts and then home depot sells internally threaded spacers that are meant for joining two bolts or threaded rods together. I would try to find a way to secure one of those inside the super bumper and Then you only have to use small bolts on each side. It doesn't matter if they connect because the strength of your hitchpin comes from the shear strength of the material at the joint of the hitch and whatever you are using the hitch for

I would try to get a pin that is as strong as possible, your super bumper will probably just push into hitch instead of compressing if the pin breaks, which would focus all of the energy of the crash on your gas tank or rear frame (it's been so long I forget what is behind the hitch)

[vt_maverick]

I'm thinkin' to just take your original chrome lock pin and hacksaw off the bent end. Then drill a matching cotterpin hole on the sawed-off side. Thus, you'd have a cotterpin on both sides of the hitchpin, and the chrome hitchpin itself would be at the bare minimum length just to barely poke its nose out each side of the receiver hitch (in order to barely get the other cotterpin through the drilled hole). Whatcha' think???

Riff raff mades a good suggestion...

But if I understand that solution correctly, it provides no "locking" capability right?

[etlsport]

But if I understand that solution correctly, it provides no "locking" capability right?

right-o but if you use a snap ring or something to hold the end, who would bother messing with it to pull it off, would have to happen in a parking lot somewhere

[Riff Raff]

But if I understand that solution correctly, it provides no "locking" capability right?

True, VT if using just the cotterpins on both sides of the hitchpin as I described. However, I've seen some miniture padlocks at both HomeDepot & Lowes with skinny shank loops that might be able to wiggle thru the cotterpin hole of the chrome hitchpin. If you get two(2) minature padlocks sold as a pair that are "keyed alike", then you'd have a padlock on each side of the hitchpin using the same one key. I'm sure the right minature padlock is out there somewhere that would fit in those tight confines at the hitchpoint.

I would try my recommendation first, and simply hacksaw the chrome hitchpin to the bare minimum length as required and drill a secondary cotterpin hole. As Eric indicated; it is the "shear" strength that is most important, and by using the original chrome hitchpin then that strength is maintained regardless of how stubby the sawed-off hitchpin might become during the retrofit. Plus, I think it may be the simpliest solution to the problem without damaging the rear skid plate.

[vt_maverick]

True, VT if using just the cotterpins on both sides of the hitchpin as I described. However, I've seen some miniture padlocks at both HomeDepot & Lowes with skinny shank loops that might be able to wiggle thru the cotterpin hole of the chrome hitchpin. If you get two(2) minature padlocks sold as a pair that are "keyed alike", then you'd have a padlock on each side of the hitchpin using the same one key. I'm sure the right minature padlock is out there somewhere that would fit in those tight confines at the hitchpoint.

In that case that's the exact solution Sue and I discussed via PM. I might give this option a try, I've got two extra angled pins in the garage that would serve well for testing. Now to find the time.

[tom4bren]

... would focus all of the energy of the crash on your gas tank or rear frame (it's been so long I forget what is behind the hitch)

The fuel tank shield would take the first impact but that's pretty thin. The fuel tank would probably get punctured if the hitch pin fails if hit from the rear on the SuperBumper (that's why I cut about 1/2 inch off of mine).

The other concern I would have is that if the internal threaded spacer were to get deformed, it'd be a real BEEEEOTCH to remove.

I'm leaning more towards the external clip ring approach with the pin being made as short as possible. Sue may have trouble getting even that to engage properly considering the angle it would have to be at during insertion.

[Mile High VX]

I've been thinking about this too since I have the Tone (RIP) hitch and need to lock my bike carrier on occassion. I don't have the rear skid plate (yet) and I still don't have enough room for a locking pin setup.

I think that the solution I have decided on is to install my bike rack and then drill another set of holes further away from the rear of the VX for the locking pin. I will still use the Thule threaded pin in the rear and the new locking pin closer to the collar. I don't think that this will cause any issues with the strength of the hitch or the bike rack.

Just a thought.