The last CV you'll ever need....maybe

[Triathlete]

I know of knowone personally that has broken the shafts themselves. All the failures I know of have been the cages exploding.

As far as the slip shaft, I see no need for it unless you have come up with a suspention mod that allows a lot more up/down arrticulation than what our stock suspention will allow (think trophy truck like 22 inch plus of travel). The green cup allows the balls/cage to move about 3 inches to keep the length in ckeck.
I really like the option of being able to replace the ball/cage with a heavy duty option...that would be the route I would be interested in. I have 2 factory and 3 Empi shafts that I can use! The cage removes with a lock ring...pretty east to do.

And again thanks to all that are getting this rolling

[tom4bren]

True Billy, the slip shaft isn't absolutely needed but I'm not sure that the green cup (outer race) provides 3" movement.

The other thing to consider is that it's not just the inner race that gets worn. The outer race wears out at the same rate. If you need to replace your CVs due to wear, it would be best to replace the green cup as well.

[Marlin]

I know of knowone personally that has broken the shafts themselves. All the failures I know of have been the cages exploding.

As far as the slip shaft, I see no need for it unless you have come up with a suspention mod that allows a lot more up/down arrticulation than what our stock suspention will allow (think trophy truck like 22 inch plus of travel). The green cup allows the balls/cage to move about 3 inches to keep the length in ckeck.
I really like the option of being able to replace the ball/cage with a heavy duty option...that would be the route I would be interested in. I have 2 factory and 3 Empi shafts that I can use! The cage removes with a lock ring...pretty east to do.

And again thanks to all that are getting this rolling

Broke the shaft x2, separate trail runs....nice to meet you Billy
As for now, I am good with the OEM sets, I have 5 of em in the garage
But I would be interested in some manly boots, the mecatech ripped after a few weeks, the OEM ones were not ripped when I replaced em

[Triathlete]

Where those OEM shafts you broke? Don't think they were! I was refering to the OEM shafts.

T4B..the green cup supplies a lot of in/out movement, may not be 3 inches but it is close. As far as replacing the green cups...unless you are prepared to disassemble your diff, not going to happen. They are held in place with lock rings inside the diff.

[BigMeatVX]

Where those OEM shafts you broke? Don't think they were! I was refering to the OEM shafts.

T4B..the green cup supplies a lot of in/out movement, may not be 3 inches but it is close. As far as replacing the green cups...unless you are prepared to disassemble your diff, not going to happen. They are held in place with lock rings inside the diff.

Billy, You do not need to dissasemble the diff to get out the stub axles...It is a real pain in the ***** though...you need a tiny pair of snap ring pliers to get the two snap rings and they slide right out after removing the 4 bolts holding the bracket to the axle housing.
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As far as the HD axles...I/We looked into it years ago and it was $$$$ (as did Swordy and Grampa Bob and others)...but mabey things have changed.???

I have broken 3-5 CVs over the years...and most were in the cage-star area...although at least one damaged or even split the green cup in two...and one broke an outer stub inside the hub.

the biggest two problem areas (beyond the obvious cages) are the smallish 17 spline stub axles (necked down to .9" in some areas!!!), both in the diff side, and at the outer hub-side.
I have spent much time and research into this....Even if you went to a superior material like heat reated 300M, you nwould still only gain a marginal amount of strength (10-20%) and the diameter of the spindle is too small to upgrade the axle size. On the diff side, the guys at ARB could make a modified 10 bolt diff with larger side gears (like 30 spline Super 30), and larger carrier bearings, but this would be pricey custom work and require your diff 3rd member to be machined for the lager bearrings.
And after all that work and money, you still would be limited by the diameter of the outer stub axle.

That is why I have resorted to a project upgrading the whole front end of my VX...to Dana 44 center section, with Toyota 30 spline axles (a full 1.31" dia. almost 50% stronger than the isuzu), CVs and larger brakes and larger Land Cruiser hubs and spindle and berrings....the project is not yet complete though, as I am still gathering all the needed parts...


Keep us posted on the axles and CVs.....

[Ascinder]

That is why I have resorted to a project upgrading the whole front end of my VX...to Dana 44 center section, with Toyota 30 spline axles (a full 1.31" dia. almost 50% stronger than the isuzu), CVs and larger brakes and larger Land Cruiser hubs and spindle and berrings....the project is not yet complete though, as I am still gathering all the needed parts...

If you don't mind me asking, how far along are you. I am stuck right now trying to cut off the A-arm, shock, and steering brackets. I'm about to buy a plasma cutter and go to town. Tried an angle grinder with a cutoff disc and a sawzall and could only get so far. The brackets are too close together to get into the tight corners. I'm going to run a stock dana 60 for now, then upgrade to the RCV60 shafts if I start getting close to breaking anything.

[BigMeatVX]

Ascinder,

I've got the dana 44 center section, the Toyota hubs and brakes...The CV shafts are next on my list...this has been on hold for the last month though...

Is it too late to talk you out of SAS?

[Ascinder]

Waaayyyy too late, lol. I've already removed almost everything from the VX and I've hacked most of the way through those A-arms brackets. Also, there is no way in hell CVs are going to hold up against 500hp and 37" tires. I'd say I'm fairly well committed at this point to the SAS.

[LittleBeast]

Billy, You do not need to dissasemble the diff to get out the stub axles...It is a real pain in the ***** though...you need a tiny pair of snap ring pliers to get the two snap rings and they slide right out after removing the 4 bolts holding the bracket to the axle housing.
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I think that is what Billy was refering to. You need to basically drop your diff to slid shafts out, you do have to remove the diff brackets, which includes the 4 bolts you are referencing and the 2 bolts that hold the diff bracket to the frame per side. Then they slide out, but not before your diff is sitting on the floor This is the part that most people do not want to do, so by "dissassemble the diff" I think he meant drop it out of the VX, which yes you have to do.

[BigMeatVX]

I think that is what Billy was refering to. You need to basically drop your diff to slid shafts out, you do have to remove the diff brackets, which includes the 4 bolts you are referencing and the 2 bolts that hold the diff bracket to the frame per side. Then they slide out, but not before your diff is sitting on the floor This is the part that most people do not want to do, so by "dissassemble the diff" I think he meant drop it out of the VX, which yes you have to do.

I NEVER have had to drop my diff to the ground, to get the stubb axles out, EVER...in fact, I say, it would be a struggle to get the diff out before removing the axle shafts.

It can be done with the diff still hanging in the VX....a pry-bar and patience is needed though.

[LittleBeast]

I NEVER have had to drop my diff to the ground, to get the stubb axles out, EVER...in fact, I say, it would be a struggle to get the diff out before removing the axle shafts.

It can be done with the diff still hanging in the VX....a pry-bar and patience is needed though.

Haha, yeah my point is we are all talking about the same thing just using different words. I know what you mean by"diff still hanging in the VX", but you still have to remove the 4 bolts holding on the bracket that mounts the diff to the frame, and probably support the diff with a jack or stands or something while it is "hanging in there", so you basically are removing the diff from its original position, and is probably less hassle to go ahead and remove it. Yes you have to remove at least one of the axle halfs before removing the diff. But I might try your crow bar method next time, seems like fun