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Thread: Rear Door Spare Tire Mount

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  1. #1
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    I like the idea of being able to disengage the front in case of CV problems. That way I can still drive it.
    Nope, don't work that way. The hubs are at the end of the line. If a CV goes bad it will still be spinning with the hub dis-engaged. The tires just won't be driven. In order for it to work you would have to have a TOD disconnect switch, a JDM transfer case or a real transfer case so you can dis-engage the drive shaft.
    The VX as it is with manual hubs dis-engaged the drive shaft and axle shafts are still spinning.
    Billy Oliver
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  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Triathlete View Post
    Nope, don't work that way. The hubs are at the end of the line. If a CV goes bad it will still be spinning with the hub dis-engaged. The tires just won't be driven. In order for it to work you would have to have a TOD disconnect switch, a JDM transfer case or a real transfer case so you can dis-engage the drive shaft.
    The VX as it is with manual hubs dis-engaged the drive shaft and axle shafts are still spinning.
    I was thinking more along the lines of this...I got this from the manual hubs thread. It would be more than a flip of a switch, but better than nothing.


    Hubs
    Awhile ago we spent alot of time discussing whether lockable hubs are any advantage. It was part of the TOD 2wd selector discussion (mbeach, me and others). The hubs disconnect the wheels from the front halfshafts. True the TOD does keep the whole front spinning, however it can't send torque there. I have lockable hubs and here is why:

    1) Better gas mileage. I've monitored this with a scan gauge. On a 40 mile round trip at 70 miles an hour I got 1.4 mpg better with the hubs disengaged as opposed to locked. These runs were back to back on the same day, same conditions on the same highway both directions to combat any wind. I even refueled to keep the weight the same. On my 1900 miles to and from moab this year I averaged 19.8 mpg with the hubs disconnected. (albeit driving like a grandma)

    1a) At one point I had the TOD cut off (there is a blue wire, its in the previous discussions) and I seemed to get even better mileage but never tested it. I reconnected it to prevent any damage and I was tired of the check light on the TOD.

    2) With the hubs disconnected. The TOD cannot transmit any TORQUE to the wheels. So the reliability is better because nothing is loaded. I am lifted and have had a hell of a time with my CV's. Granted they are still spinning but that is much better than spinning AND transmitting torque. As for whether the front axle freewheeling is a good thing; It can't over spin (ie go faster than the rear), it freewheels some of the time with the TOD anyway, so I've never seen any problem.

    3) 2wd is fun. In the snow and rain it is a hoot. Plus it is all you really need most of the time (my opinion, others will differ)

    4) Bragging rights for climbing obstacles in 2wd are always better than those in 4wd.

    5) If you break a cv on the trail you can ulock the hubs and unbolt the front axle from the TOD and get home. (I've never had to do this, yet, Though I tried it to make sure it works just in case.)

    So thats my 2 cents. I have the superwinch hubs and they have held up fine. Though if I had to do it over again I probably would've just pulled some from a trooper.

    I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
    Thomas Jefferson

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marlin View Post
    So thats my 2 cents. I have the superwinch hubs and they have held up fine. Though if I had to do it over again I probably would've just pulled some from a trooper.
    There are varying schools of thought on the Superwinch vs. Aisin hub debate.

    While Aisin's are considered stronger/better built, some say it's better to use the Superwinch or other aftermarket hubs as a "fuse" to prevent CV damage.
    Having the hub grenade before any CV damage happens would make for a much easier trail repair if you carry a spare hub...

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ldub View Post
    There are varying schools of thought on the Superwinch vs. Aisin hub debate.

    While Aisin's are considered stronger/better built, some say it's better to use the Superwinch or other aftermarket hubs as a "fuse" to prevent CV damage.
    Having the hub grenade before any CV damage happens would make for a much easier trail repair if you carry a spare hub...
    Interesting thought, purposely buy an inferior product to act as a sacrifical anode for your CVs....

    After I do the hubs, I am gonna do the HID roof lights. Ldub, yours were blinding. I am going with H11s, I can get the fixtures for about 20 bucks a piece and the HID kit, transformer, ballast and bulb for about 50 bucks a pair. That is less than a 100 bucks to do the project, just gotta find a cool box to put the ballast and transformer in...Tupperware maybe>

  5. #5
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    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by Marlin View Post
    just gotta find a cool box to put the ballast and transformer in...Tupperware maybe>
    Here's what I used...

    http://www.mysigg.com/index.asp?Page...TS&Category=31

    Might be able to snoop em' for le$$ on ebay...

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ldub View Post
    Here's what I used...

    http://www.mysigg.com/index.asp?Page...TS&Category=31

    Might be able to snoop em' for le$$ on ebay...
    Very nice, and they have them in Pink!!!!!

    I was looking at this:http://cgi.ebay.com/Military-Waterpr...3A1%7C294%3A50

    and yes I know, thread jack...
    Last edited by Marlin : 06/08/2009 at 07:15 AM

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marlin View Post
    H11s, I can get the fixtures for about 20 bucks a piece and the HID kit, transformer, ballast and bulb for about 50 bucks a pair. That is less than a 100 bucks to do the project,
    buying from who? where?

  8. #8
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    Here are the pics as requested...the plate is centered on the outside, I just drilled one of the holes crooked, so bolts is actually at a slight angle...I know, pathetic.







    As far as the lights, I correct my previous post, the 20 dollar procomp fixtures are not H11s, the H11s are 80 bucks, I apologize, so now the project will be around 200 vice 100:
    http://4wheeloutfitters.com/store/in...d&productId=26

    The HID kit is the same one I have on my VX for the headlights. No flickering or any of the other problems people whine about. Took about a week from Hong Kong, they will send you whatever color bulb you want. Their customer service was great too.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/H1-H3-H4-H7-H11-9004-9006-9007-xenon-hid-conversion-kit_W0QQitemZ200348168964QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_Def aultDomain_0?hash=item2ea5ae7304&_trksid=p3286.c0. m14&_trkparms=65%3A12|66%3A2|39%3A1|72%3A1205|240% 3A1309|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50

  9. #9
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    Marlin,

    I finally saw your pix. Good job. It looks like the mounting bracket carries your spare just a tad farther away from the door than mine. I can't even get my hand between the door and the tire to clean or wax or treat the cladding.

    BTW, you could just mount your license plate on your bully bar but I like it on my receiver better.

    Tom
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

    Put a smiley after you say that Bub.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZEUS View Post
    Huh, I knew Chris was a Jeeper! He is even driving a strange Jeep Recovery - it must be the latest concept vehicle from Jeep cuz it looks way futuristic and with a name like Recovery it signals the economy! I hope it sells well... I wonder why they put the badge on the window tho.
    Damn, can I not get away from you!!!!

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