trimming cladding

[Gussie2000]

Available at Harbor Freight...

LDUB are you serious ? This is nuts
Man you make me laugh so much I was close to piss my self hahahahaha
That machete looks like the ones my grandpa used to open the coconuts at the beach to make some tasty pina colada
I can just imagine dougie with this machete trimming the cladding

[Ldub]

LDUB are you serious ? This is nuts
Man you make me laugh so much I was close to piss my self hahahahaha
That machete looks like the ones my grandpa used to open the coconuts at the beach to make some tasty pina colada
I can just imagine dougie with this machete trimming the cladding

If you go on the Harbor Freight website, & find that particular instrument of certain destruction, you'll find that it's a Japan saw, which makes a straight, relatively smooth, cut.

They cut on the "pull" stroke, so they take a little getting used to...

Although I can definitely see the humor in trimming the cladding with a machete......

[Gussie2000]

If you go on the Harbor Freight website, & find that particular instrument of certain destruction, you'll find that it's a Japan saw, which makes a straight, relatively smooth, cut.

They cut on the "pull" stroke, so they take a little getting used to...

Although I can definitely see the humor in trimming the cladding with a machete......

I think dougie will have problem handling this saw since he's not japanese at all jejeje

[AK Falco]

If you go on the Harbor Freight website, & find that particular instrument of certain destruction, you'll find that it's a Japan saw, which makes a straight, relatively smooth, cut.

They cut on the "pull" stroke, so they take a little getting used to...

Although I can definitely see the humor in trimming the cladding with a machete......

Ldub is right these japan saw's are extremely sharp and will cut anything, wood, plastic, cheese, rib eye steak! probably your plate too.

[VX KAT]

I took the plunge today and ordered my 285/60-18 rubber.....so that means my cladding will need to have some trimming when I get them installed.

I've read several posts that mention a "triangle" shape cut out from the front of the front wheel well and then I saw the great pic Ldub attached above. Going to print that and take it to the install shop for their reference so they can do it.

Question: Hopefully wont have to be doing the BFH routine to any metal in there, is there any other cladding areas that need trimmed? (No lift, just the bigger tires above). Don't want any surprises if possible.

[Ldub]

I took the plunge today and ordered my 285/60-18 rubber.....so that means my cladding will need to have some trimming when I get them installed.

I've read several posts that mention a "triangle" shape cut out from the front of the front wheel well and then I saw the great pic Ldub attached above. Going to print that and take it to the install shop for their reference so they can do it.

Question: Hopefully wont have to be doing the BFH routine to any metal in there, is there any other cladding areas that need trimmed? (No lift, just the bigger tires above). Don't want any surprises if possible.

I can't take credit for the pic...just wish I could remember who to give photo cred to...
I horked it from another members gallery...

As long as you're mounting the new skinz on stock rims, you should be OK...but there are never any iron clad guarantees against "no surprises"...

Can't wait to see the pics...:_drool:

[MSHardeman]

Kat (Sue), with the tires that you are describing you should only have to trim the point off of the front cladding which is a MUCH smaller piece from what is shown in the picture Dub posted.

If you stand next to the front tire (let's use the drivers side as an example) and look right in front of the tire you will see that the cladding comes to a point. This point is at the very bottom of the cladding at the front of the wheel well. The only thing you really need to do with the 285/60/18's is knock that point off. I turned my wheels until they hit that point to give me a reference on where to start cutting. I HATE to maul my baby so I cut very little off to begin with and then kept sanding and sanding until I had just cleared the tire.

If you went with the Nitto Terra Grapplers that should be all you need to trim. I was stock height with the TG's for my first three Moab's and never had a rubbing problem. Moncha had the TG's and was stock height this year and I don't believe that he had any problems either.

You're going to LOVE your new tires.

[VX KAT]

I went with the Cooper Zeon LTZ, it's a new tire and looks very similar to the TGs and the Toyo Open Country A/T, a bit more aggressive than the O/C. RiffRaff pointed them out to me. Weigh 49 lbs (just a tad less than the O/Cs, and about 3+ lbs less than TGs)

They're hard to find, had to order them and will take almost 10 days. These tires come with a 50,000 mile warranty too, which is almost unheard of I thought on tires like this. They're UTQC rating is 520 so they're going to last a lot longer than all the ultra high performance tires I'm used to putting on my cars (in the past).

This economy is really different.....negotiated with local tire shop against the PepBoys "buy3 get 4th free offer".....PepBoys was $161/tire +m/b + tax. Got the tire shop to include a free alignment (when needed on VX or FJ), free rotating and balancing for 10 times, "membership" in their tire club, free flat fixing (plugs), all for $720 out the door (including AZ sales tax).....plus they're local so I don't have to drive to Phoenix Pep Boys 90 miles for anything. They're also going to take my old tires on consignment. I also have them listed on Craigslist.

I LOVE to negotiate on all "car" things, I love torturing car sales people the most though! They assume I'm just an innocent damsel in distress and don't know a thing about tires or cars....ha ha ha...are they wrong!

Will let you know how they fit and post pics too.
These pics aren't in my size just some "real" pics I found online that gave better perspective on tires since I can't find them anywhere in any size to see in person.

ah, one question....why didn't I get these BEFORE Moab????

[Marlin]

I didn't trim the front of my cladding at all, but rather behind the wheel. I used a craftsman razor blade pocket knife. You could probably use a pocket knife. I then took a 3lb sledge and banged in the body seams that were still in the way, I had to use an cutting wheel to modify my sliders as well. No problem...I had never done this either so don't worry, it can be done. Now I am making skid plates and soon starting a bumper. It is very addictive. From this:

To this:

[Triathlete]

I trimmed just a tad off of my cladding
A sawzall did the job like a hot knife cutting butter!




However when I had previously did some minor trimming for tire clearing a razor knife worked just fine.

[Moncha]

I held out for so long, when I got my Nitto TG's (285-60-18) I could bear it. Then I actually did it. It's very easy with a razor knife and you don't take very much off. Don't let some of these guys scare ya, they're harmless. Unless you're a VX

[nfpgasmask]

I had to trim mine as well. Its not hard and it does not detract from the external look of the VX (unless you do a major job like Billy (Triathlete) did .

I used a Dremel with a small cutoff wheel attachment to trim mine. It's quite simple. I can't imagine getting enough leverage with a hand tool to do it, unless you remove the front bumper cladding. I did mine in the parking lot of the the tire shop.

Bart

[Sprey]

I used a airhacksaw thing to trim the front of the cladding. Had to do it at the mechanics so i could get home :O

Tho on the way home the rear of the wheel was rubbing so trimmed that to.
Used a hacksaw and cut some of the plastic.

Wheels are 265/75/16 0 offset And ome912 rear springs, front tbar crank with a bj flip

[Ldub]

I can't imagine getting enough leverage with a hand tool to do it, unless you remove the front bumper cladding.
Bart

When tool sharp Grasshopper, you need no leverage...