How do I replace the front brake rotors?

[CowboyErik]

What are the benefits repacking bearings when swapping rotors; is it better to replace those also?

[Ldub]

What are the benefits repacking bearings when swapping rotors; is it better to replace those also?

All lubricants break down with time/use.
Examine the bearings upon disassembly/cleaning, if there is any sign of scorching (brown-almost black discoloration on the rollers), they should be replaced.(I found new @ Auto Zone)
Some replace bearings every time they are due for repacking (every 30-40k), because they aren't THAT expensive, & since you already have it all apart anyway, why not.
Any bearing that is replaced, should also have a new race, the part that the bearing contacts inside the hub, all new bearings come with a new race.

Always replace the seals.

[TheGanzman]

Pardon the dissenting opinion about replacing the wheel bearings from an "old school" wrench...

Check your "country of origin" on those shiny new wheel bearings from Auto Zone or the like - my bet is they'll be from "a country not KNOWN for their wheel bearing technology" to put it nicely. Now check the country of origin on your OEM wheel bearings - Ahhhh...

My own experience w/front wheel bearings is that as long as they've had reasonable access to proper lubrication for their life SO far, as long as the bearing seal has never been "violated", as long as they haven't seen contaminants/water intrusion, their useful life is ~200K miles with proper repacking (I personally recommend Mobil 1 synthetic grease). As previously mentioned, a proper examination is in order - evidence of rust, scoring, excessive heat, etc. is CLEARLY visible on the bearing and/or race surfaces. If they AIN'T bad, keep USIN' 'em!

I've tested the "new" bearings from Auto Zone and the like with dial indicators - they're SH*TE! I can only imagine the metallurgy of those things - can you say "recycled steel"? Sure, I knew that you could...

Just my .02, from an old geezer...

[Ldub]

Pardon the dissenting opinion about replacing the wheel bearings from an "old school" wrench...

Check your "country of origin" on those shiny new wheel bearings from Auto Zone or the like - my bet is they'll be from "a country not KNOWN for their wheel bearing technology" to put it nicely. Now check the country of origin on your OEM wheel bearings - Ahhhh...

My own experience w/front wheel bearings is that as long as they've had reasonable access to proper lubrication for their life SO far, as long as the bearing seal has never been "violated", as long as they haven't seen contaminants/water intrusion, their useful life is ~200K miles with proper repacking (I personally recommend Mobil 1 synthetic grease). As previously mentioned, a proper examination is in order - evidence of rust, scoring, excessive heat, etc. is CLEARLY visible on the bearing and/or race surfaces. If they AIN'T bad, keep USIN' 'em!

I've tested the "new" bearings from Auto Zone and the like with dial indicators - they're SH*TE! I can only imagine the metallurgy of those things - can you say "recycled steel"? Sure, I knew that you could...

Just my .02, from an old geezer...

Good point on the quality issue, last time I did mine, I found one scorched & didn't have time to wait for a new one from Merlin, so I hitched a ride to the nearest parts store...

Speaking of contaminant intrusion, I've found that "spirited" splashing through 3-4" deep puddles is enough to introduce water/mud into the hub.

Can you say "red iron range mud"? ...

[Ldub]

Just checked & it's official...my memory is slipping...

My replacement bearing was from NAPA, made in Chermany...oh well, I feel a little better about the quality anyway.
Also, Mobil 1 synth...

[snowtrooper1966]

Also, don't forget to paint your calipers when your knee deep in this project already. Did mine with a two part brushable epoxy so there was no masking involved. Just remember to clean with a solvent and brake cleaner (naturally) and scrape off the rust first! Well worth the extra time:





Also used the R1 Concepts rotors. Cheaper than the OEM,s IIRC.

eBay link:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ISUZU...spagenameZWDVW

And don't scrimp on the pads! I ran out of dough and used Raybestos, but think the extra dough and a little patience would have made a difference. OEM from Merlin! 'Nuff said!
Best,