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  1. #1
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    "if im gonna be taking out the bearings to repack and clean them why not just replace them at that time?? (if its cheap-ish)...."

    Define cheap-ish. I wouldn't classify rotors in the cheap-ish bin myself but it's your call. I personally wouldn't replace them until needed - but that's just me. The trade off is that you'll be doing 80% of the work needed to replace the rotors during the bearing repack. The only thing you won't be doing is pressing out the races.

    Bart, I saw that link but I was on a mission for Kenny's. I may have already done a pdf of his write up. I'll see about getting it put into the How2 section. I'll have a look at this one to see if it's worth having both.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

    Put a smiley after you say that Bub.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by tom4bren View Post
    "if im gonna be taking out the bearings to repack and clean them why not just replace them at that time?? (if its cheap-ish)...."

    Define cheap-ish. I wouldn't classify rotors in the cheap-ish bin myself but it's your call. I personally wouldn't replace them until needed - but that's just me. The trade off is that you'll be doing 80% of the work needed to replace the rotors during the bearing repack. The only thing you won't be doing is pressing out the races.

    Bart, I saw that link but I was on a mission for Kenny's. I may have already done a pdf of his write up. I'll see about getting it put into the How2 section. I'll have a look at this one to see if it's worth having both.
    i meant the bearings, not the rotors..ill keep the rotors if they are in good condition....
    thanks again guys....

    ya those write ups are gonna be helpful
    "Do Not Seek Praise. Seek Criticism."

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  3. #3
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    If you have high miles you may want to think about replacing the boots on the cv axles. I know the axles are supposed to last a long time ,but the boots are rubber and do not. I know people are saying leave them alone, but will you be upset if in 3000 miles one of your boots comes apart and you have to get all greasy again? If they are starting to crack at the seams I would replace them. shawn
    1COOLVX

  4. #4
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    My VX is getting this treatment right now - my rotors are warped after getting turned down once (rewarping happens very quickly once you turn down the OEM rotors once, so I think it's better to replace them). I got Duralast aftermarket rotors, OEM pads, and SS brake lines. I'm having them do a full brake fluid flush and replacement - 9 years of absorbing moisture is tooooo long!

    My mechanic asked me to get new hub seals for the repacking part of the job, but that was all that was needed parts-wise (until the found the draggign LF caliper!) If you are just replacing pads, don't bother repacking; if you are replacing the front rotors, you have to repack the bearings in the process, since you have to disassemble the hub to replace the rotor. It's a big job requiring lots of time and tools.

    (Thanks to Merlin for overnight shipping a new LF caliper to my now-former Isuzu dealer!)

    Good luck!

  5. #5
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    That's right, I forgot, you need to buy new seals for the bearing re-pack.

    Bart

  6. #6
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    Wink

    Quote Originally Posted by nfpgasmask View Post
    That's right, I forgot, you need to buy new seals for the bearing re-pack.

    Bart
    When I did mine I had new seals on hand & I used them. But, I kept the old ones as when I "gently" used a seal puller (Advance Auto) they came out in what looked like pristine, reusable condition. I think in a pinch if their not damaged you could "in theory" re-use them.

    my $.02
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]"If its fast and reliable, its not cheap;
    if its fast and cheap, its not reliable;
    if its cheap and reliable, its not fast."


    If love is blind, why is lingerie so popular?

  7. #7
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    Yes, you can re-use them if they didn't get chewed up.

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