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  1. #1
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    Arrow

    Examine your bearings when you clean them, if there is a brownish/black stripe on the rollers, this indicates scorching & the bearing should be replaced.
    Last time I did mine, I had one inner scorched.
    A quick trip to auto zone or advanced auto, checkers, etc. will get you a new one...
    Pounding out the race(pin or tapered punch, look from the back side for the notches) & replacing it with the new one that comes with the bearing, is the hardest part...

  2. #2
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    "I know there is a thread somewhere that points to another Isuzu site with a step-by-step for the bearing repack."

    I thought Kenny did a write up.

    Dub - race you to find it
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

    Put a smiley after you say that Bub.

  3. #3
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    cool, thanks guys...i didnt look at the rotors yet but i definately will...

    if im gonna be taking out the bearings to repack and clean them why not just replace them at that time?? (if its cheap-ish)....

    and would you guys suggest doing the brake lines just to get some better response while i have everything taken apart??
    "Do Not Seek Praise. Seek Criticism."

    "If You Can't Solve A Problem, It's Because You're Playing By The Rules."

    "The Perosn Who Doesn't Make Mistakes Is Unlikely To Make Anything."

    -Paul Arden

  4. #4
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    http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=11324

    I gotta give etlsport partial credit. I only read through 3 threads till I found where he had posted the URL.

    There's a lot more info than just Kenny's write up tho. Use the search function on 'bearing repack'.

    Tom

  5. #5
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    "if im gonna be taking out the bearings to repack and clean them why not just replace them at that time?? (if its cheap-ish)...."

    Define cheap-ish. I wouldn't classify rotors in the cheap-ish bin myself but it's your call. I personally wouldn't replace them until needed - but that's just me. The trade off is that you'll be doing 80% of the work needed to replace the rotors during the bearing repack. The only thing you won't be doing is pressing out the races.

    Bart, I saw that link but I was on a mission for Kenny's. I may have already done a pdf of his write up. I'll see about getting it put into the How2 section. I'll have a look at this one to see if it's worth having both.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by tom4bren View Post
    "if im gonna be taking out the bearings to repack and clean them why not just replace them at that time?? (if its cheap-ish)...."

    Define cheap-ish. I wouldn't classify rotors in the cheap-ish bin myself but it's your call. I personally wouldn't replace them until needed - but that's just me. The trade off is that you'll be doing 80% of the work needed to replace the rotors during the bearing repack. The only thing you won't be doing is pressing out the races.

    Bart, I saw that link but I was on a mission for Kenny's. I may have already done a pdf of his write up. I'll see about getting it put into the How2 section. I'll have a look at this one to see if it's worth having both.
    i meant the bearings, not the rotors..ill keep the rotors if they are in good condition....
    thanks again guys....

    ya those write ups are gonna be helpful

  7. #7
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    If you have high miles you may want to think about replacing the boots on the cv axles. I know the axles are supposed to last a long time ,but the boots are rubber and do not. I know people are saying leave them alone, but will you be upset if in 3000 miles one of your boots comes apart and you have to get all greasy again? If they are starting to crack at the seams I would replace them. shawn
    1COOLVX

  8. #8
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    My VX is getting this treatment right now - my rotors are warped after getting turned down once (rewarping happens very quickly once you turn down the OEM rotors once, so I think it's better to replace them). I got Duralast aftermarket rotors, OEM pads, and SS brake lines. I'm having them do a full brake fluid flush and replacement - 9 years of absorbing moisture is tooooo long!

    My mechanic asked me to get new hub seals for the repacking part of the job, but that was all that was needed parts-wise (until the found the draggign LF caliper!) If you are just replacing pads, don't bother repacking; if you are replacing the front rotors, you have to repack the bearings in the process, since you have to disassemble the hub to replace the rotor. It's a big job requiring lots of time and tools.

    (Thanks to Merlin for overnight shipping a new LF caliper to my now-former Isuzu dealer!)

    Good luck!

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by tom4bren View Post
    "I know there is a thread somewhere that points to another Isuzu site with a step-by-step for the bearing repack."

    I thought Kenny did a write up.
    You're right, I think Kenny did do a nice write up, I forgot about that one. I was thinking of the one on PlanetIsuzu I think...

    EDIT: This one: http://www.planetisuzoo.com/articles.htm/56

    Bart

  10. #10
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    I've never repacked a bearing in my life. About every 35k or so, I toss 'em and put in new ones. They don't cost that much, and I'm incredibly anal about my machines. (Well.....most of them )

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