question to those with Alpine SC

Ya, looks like that (air bubble) may have been the case. I gave a few taps on the waterpump as well just to jolt the thermostat while filling it. I had a sticking thermostat on my old Rodeo before and that seemed to do the trick. Regardless, I may still go ahead and replace the thermostat and possibly the waterpump within the next few thousand miles. The radiator is brand new so I may as well get the entire cooling line up to par.

Here's to the next few thousand miles going well so I can go ahead and look into replacing all the lines with braided hoses and throwing in a CAI. Speaking of the CAI, any proven bolt in CAIs that work well with the S/C? I have seen some gallery shots of the C/F one that looks pretty swank.

It was one like this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/TOP-FUEL-CARBON-...QQcmdZViewItem

that the original person who did this started with. (xdfarrx or jolly roger VX?...can't remembr any more) & this one doesn't look exactly the same.
You have to mod it by cutting it to length(slight angle on TB end), drilling it for pass. side valve cover breather (unless you use a breather vent), & another hole for IAT sensor.

Hmm, doesnt sound like too much work for a hacksaw and a drill. Maybe I will look into something like this some more this comming summer. Thanks Dub.

To resurrect this thread and ask another question….Has anyone retrofitted back to OEM from the SC? Two years ago I posted about my noisy SC and decided to bare with the noise. Well this past run from MA to VT changed that. Too damn noisy for me. So I seem to have the choice of taking the SC off and sending to FL for a rebuild (if the guy Dragon Bob mentioned earlier is still in business) and not have a vehicle during the down time or have engine returned to OEM and live with out it. So I’m opening this up to the list. What would you do? Also, if anyone is aware of a company that rebuilds Alpine SC please let me know. Thanks

I'm currently not running the SC - took if off this previous spring due to the horrible drive bearing noise. In my case I previously purchased a complete intake manifold from an Isuzu Trooper - that way I could leave the fuel rails on most of the parts intact on the SC Alpine manifold. It's sitting in a box ready for shipping, unfortunately I got laid off 5 months ago so the SC is still sitting in a box. I put all my old gear back on my original manifold, using the fuel rails from the extra Trooper one - the intake port is actually a different size so it's not a direct swap. I left the tensioning plate on the front of the motor behind the pulley as I intend to eventually get the SC back on there.

I found someone locally who could do the job but never got a response when I called and left several messages. I'm not sure who I'll use at this point.

-- John

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by johnnyapollo

I'm currently not running the SC - took if off this previous spring due to the horrible drive bearing noise. In my case I previously purchased a complete intake manifold from an Isuzu Trooper - that way I could leave the fuel rails on most of the parts intact on the SC Alpine manifold. It's sitting in a box ready for shipping, unfortunately I got laid off 5 months ago so the SC is still sitting in a box. I put all my old gear back on my original manifold, using the fuel rails from the extra Trooper one - the intake port is actually a different size so it's not a direct swap. I left the tensioning plate on the front of the motor behind the pulley as I intend to eventually get the SC back on there.

I found someone locally who could do the job but never got a response when I called and left several messages. I'm not sure who I'll use at this point.

-- John

---

Since I noticed the link in Green Dragons post is dead, I did a little snooping.

I hope any of this will eventually lead to something useful to you...

http://www.thehighspeedlab.com/index.html

Check out all the offered services for Eaton blowers here...

http://www.thehighspeedlab.com/catalog.htm

Here's a "ballpark" HP calculator that's kinda fun to play with...:yesgray:

http://www.superchargersonline.com/hp_calculator.asp

Start at 215 crank HP, Plug in 20 lb boost, 108 octane & a 3 core intercooler, then let your mind wander...:smilewink

HA! As it turns out, You already know all this stuff...:mbrasd:

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...ighlight=eaton

Oh well, the HP calc is still fun to play with...:smilewink

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Ldub

Since I noticed the link in Green Dragons post is dead, I did a little snooping.

---

Yes the link is dead but the telephone number he listed is still answered by the company voice mail (I called it over weekend while closed). So today I'll be searching the resources to determine which direction to take. I have the box of OEM parts in my car and wonder whether my new mechanic has the ability to put it back together given that he did not do the SC install. He could certainly take off the SC and I could send it for repairs if not too price prohibitive. We'll see.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by WormGod

Reiterating a question from my last post concerning the fuel pressure regulator, but with pictures this time to try to get my point made more clear. Basically, there is a protection bracket (so the workshop manual calls it) surrounding the regulator that houses a wire harness connection and 2 small ports.

http://www.wormgod.8m.com/Images/Ebo..._pres_prot.jpg

(2 and 3 below point to the 2 ports on the protection bracket w/ wire harness port)

http://www.wormgod.8m.com/Images/Ebo...eg_bracket.JPG

Besides getting the right length hosing to finish the install and figuring out where this bracket and these ports fit into the S/C equation, these are really the only things holding me back from finishing. Any out there that installed their own S/Cs got the answer I am looking for? :confused:

S/C installs were clearly more simplified on PRE fuel injected cars. :(

---

Dub,

Do you know whether you still have the reference hoses to these numbers? Would be so helpful if you did (example: fuel regulator vacuum to number 1 etc). Thanks

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ScottinMA

Dub,

Do you know whether you still have the reference hoses to these numbers? Would be so helpful if you did (example: fuel regulator vacuum to number 1 etc). Thanks

---

It'll take a bit of digging, but I'll see what I can come up with...:yesgray:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ScottinMA

Dub,

Do you know whether you still have the reference hoses to these numbers? Would be so helpful if you did (example: fuel regulator vacuum to number 1 etc). Thanks

---

Well, I looked at the various shop manuals until I was almost cross eyed, THEN it dawned on me that there is a vacuum hose routing diagram...under the hood.:rolleyesg

Smart @$$ directions...:smilewink

Open hood -> look up ^...:uhohgray:...:_wrench:

With a bit of head scratching, that should pretty much tell you where everything goes...:_thinking

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Ldub

Well, I looked at the various shop manuals until I was almost cross eyed, THEN it dawned on me that there is a vacuum hose routing diagram...under the hood.:rolleyesg

Smart @$$ directions...:smilewink

Open hood -> look up ^...:uhohgray:...:_wrench:

With a bit of head scratching, that should pretty much tell you where everything goes...:_thinking

---

That's if you aren't on your 3rd factory hood... like me. ;) Nil a sticker on the hood. *sigh*

I don't envy this task. I was NEVER any good any remembering/memorizing vacuum plumbing. Though, if you know what all the connections are, reverse engineering them is actually not too bad on the VX. Looks like a lot of lines, but it's really not too bad. I have actually "considered" just taking out the S/C and selling to go back to stock it but I think that would lead me to selling the VX. To be honest with ya, the thought continues to haunt me and I do consider it....

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by WormGod

That's if you aren't on your 3rd factory hood... like me. ;) Nil a sticker on the hood. *sigh*

I don't envy this task. I was NEVER any good any remembering/memorizing vacuum plumbing. Though, if you know what all the connections are, reverse engineering them is actually not too bad on the VX. Looks like a lot of lines, but it's really not too bad. I have actually "considered" just taking out the S/C and selling to go back to stock it but I think that would lead me to selling the VX. To be honest with ya, the thought continues to haunt me and I do consider it....

---

Looks like I'd better spiff er up a little & take a few pics for the archives.

Dub,

Thanks for all your efforts! I learned that my SC may breath yet again. All the damn noise I've been hearing is due to a loose 5 lb pulley and a bad bearing in the tensioner pulley. There is always a chance that the shaft may be bent as well but he (mechanic) didn't think so but won't know for sure until he gets the parts. Which introduces the bad news. Alpine is gone but there are places out there that service Eaton SC. So the hunt begins, and if I can find the parts I may be back in business. If I can't find the parts or the shaft is found to be bent, then I'm back to installing the OEM system. Thanks to everyone for assisting me.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ScottinMA

Dub,

Thanks for all your efforts! I learned that my SC may breath yet again. All the damn noise I've been hearing is due to a loose 5 lb pulley and a bad bearing in the tensioner pulley. There is always a chance that the shaft may be bent as well but he (mechanic) didn't think so but won't know for sure until he gets the parts. Which introduces the bad news. Alpine is gone but there are places out there that service Eaton SC. So the hunt begins, and if I can find the parts I may be back in business. If I can't find the parts or the shaft is found to be bent, then I'm back to installing the OEM system. Thanks to everyone for assisting me.

---

FWIW...the NSK part # for the S/C tensioner pulley bearing is:

6301C3 OR 630IC3...depending on wether my illegible writing meant 1 or I...:_thinking

OK...just found out for sure, it is a 1...http://vehicross.info/forums/showpos...77&postcount=2

[QUOTE
OK...just found out for sure, it is a 1...http://vehicross.info/forums/showpos...77&postcount=2[/QUOTE]

Dub you are the man! I've been calling everywhere trying to get these parts. Is the Alpine SC (I have one of earliest versions) a Eaton M62? Now if I could just find a SC pulley...

I just discovered this link in my search to discover how I might be able to get in touch with this company. Sent email (couldn't find a phone number) and await response.

http://www.alpine-developments.com/

I've tried several different numbers in the past and was never able go get in touch with anyone or get any response via email. Your best bet is to find a machinist who can look up the raw part numbers.

-- John

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by johnnyapollo

I've tried several different numbers in the past and was never able go get in touch with anyone or get any response via email. Your best bet is to find a machinist who can look up the raw part numbers.

-- John

---

I'll take that advice. Since running without the SC turning over the past couple days I've been disappointed by the noticeable decrease in performance. I've been so accustomed to the SC that I'm now feeling more desperate than ever to find the parts to keep it in tact rather than retrofitting back to the OEM set-up.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ScottinMA

I'll take that advice. Since running without the SC turning over the past couple days I've been disappointed by the noticeable decrease in performance. I've been so accustomed to the SC that I'm now feeling more desperate than ever to find the parts to keep it in tact rather than retrofitting back to the OEM set-up.

---

Scott, if you are currently running with the SC installed, but not turning over, there would be quite a large drop in performance.
All the intake air has to find its way through the stationary SC.

Going back to OEM setup will still be a drop in performance, but nowhere near as much as the stationary SC.

PK

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by PK

Scott, if you are currently running with the SC installed, but not turning over, there would be quite a large drop in performance.
All the intake air has to find its way through the stationary SC.

Going back to OEM setup will still be a drop in performance, but nowhere near as much as the stationary SC.

PK

---

Well that explains it. Today I'll focus my search on finding an Eaton M62 blower pulley and see whether that does the trick. Hate to retire this blower.

Oh my God! I have a response from Alpine!!


Hi we need to know what vehicle it for. Regards John

-----Original Message-----
From: Scott Smith [mailto:ScottinMA@aol.com]
Sent: 02 December 2009 02:46 AM
To: sales@alpine-developments.com
Cc: sales@performancesi.com
Subject: Parts for Alpine SC

Hello,

I need to replace my 5 lb SC pulley on an Alpine (Eaton M62) version. How
can obtain one?

I've been chatting with John at Alpine in South Africa. Alpine is going to manufacture a 53 mm SC pulley capable of increasing the boost to 6 lbs. That along with a bearing for the tensioner pulley should get me back in business. Getting this done has been quite a project and I'm grateful to Alpine for responding to my requests and I will be even more grateful when these parts get here.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ScottinMA

Alpine is going to manufacture a 53 mm SC pulley capable of increasing the boost to 6 lbs.

---

Please keep me posted as to cost, availability, & who to send the money to...:drool:..:naughty:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Ldub

Please keep me posted as to cost, availability, & who to send the money to...:drool:..:naughty:

---

haha, wouldnt expect anything less..... :thumbup:

I'd like a 6 lb pulley as well, please...

-- John

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Ldub

Please keep me posted as to cost, availability, & who to send the money to...:drool:..:naughty:

---

Absolutely! I will let everyone know as soon as this process is finished.

Well, something changed. In a earlier correspondence with Alpine in South Africa I received the following message on December 7th:

"Hi We will send a 53mm pulley John"

On December 10th I received this:

"Hi we never had a 53mm pulley in stock we are making one. Please confirm all the parts you require regards John"

On December 17 this:

"Hi Scott, the 5psi pulley is the smallest we can go, to get more boost we would have to manufacture a larger crank pulley that would quite expensive. We will have update to a larger supercharger MP 90 soon keep in touch Regards John"

I assume that is our Aussie pals endeavor....

And the other source I was investigating:

"This pulley was designed by NGM to bring the boost and power level of the Alpine supercharger kit for the 2.7L Tiburon up to Stage II level. With headers and catback and the addition of this pulley, you should see a boost increase of approximately 6lbs. Total boost you should see is around 6lbs.

$165.95 $145.95"

I called him about fitment. His reply on December 7:

"It will fit. Alpine used the same offset pulley that I use on my kits so there should be no problem with the offset."

To reach them:

http://ngmhouseofpower.com/product_i...6slp1gvmao4pp3



That's all the news that fit to print : )

Anybody wanna guinea pig that pulley? Don't look at "I". ;)

My concerns....

Proven on a 2.7L Tiburon.... I simply can't take someone's word for it when it isn't in writing (the website doesn't list a 3.5L VehiCROSS, so they will not be responsible). And to be honest, I don't know what the load bearing is on the existing Alpine unit. Could be that 5psi is at or close to the limit, considering the bearing issues it is prone to. And remember, Alpine didn't even offer the 5psi until just before they were discontinued. Anybody who is considering a swap, I would consider the consequences first.

I will guarantee the boost, but for how long before issues arise? :confused:

An all new S/C unit is the best option if you ask me. Something with better internals and not some damned nylon bearings.

Just some thoughts I have had on the issue.

Gary,

Agreed. I just wanted to keep people up to date with the most recent chatter from Alpine. As for the other company, a telephone call to determine whether it is, in fact, at 53 mm pulley is simple.

maybe this is a dumb question. but if you guys are having problems with the bearings....

why not have someone make you better ones? :_shrug:

i know there are plenty of places out there who will make you any type and size of bearing needed. my dad has a couple of companies he uses for trailers and whatnot.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ScottinMA

Gary,

Agreed. I just wanted to keep people up to date with the most recent chatter from Alpine. As for the other company, a telephone call to determine whether it is, in fact, at 53 mm pulley is simple.

---

I've been lookin' at this for a couple of days, & the pic on their website is what got me to digging...now I gotta be the turd again...:smilewink

According to this...

Alpine/NGM Stage II Supercharger Pulley 2.8"

This pulley was designed by NGM to bring the boost and power level of the Alpine supercharger kit for the 2.7L Tiburon up to Stage II level. With headers and catback and the addition of this pulley, you should see a boost increase of approximately 6lbs. Total boost you should see is around 6lbs.

$165.95 $145.95
This product was added to our catalog on Sunday 14 January, 2007.

The pulley they're offering is 2.8", the 5 lb. pulley on the Alpine S/C I've got, is approx (hey, it's cold out there) 2.25" outer lip - outer lip, which would put it near 2.125" actual dia.

Check me if I'm wrong here, but increasing the size of the driven pulley is going to make it spin slower.

It would stand to reason that their 6 lb. pulley is larger than our 5 lb. pulley because they're using a larger drive pulley on the crank.

We have a 6.5", 7.0", and 7.5". This pulley set will allow you to increase boost if you do not desire to change out the blower pulley. This set will also allow you to increase boost above and beyond the upper pulley change. We have plenty of combinations for you.


Our Alpine crank pulley measures approx 5", outer lip - outer lip.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Ldub

I've been lookin' at this for a couple of days, & the pic on their website is what got me to digging...now I gotta be the turd again...:smilewink

According to this...

Alpine/NGM Stage II Supercharger Pulley 2.8"

This pulley was designed by NGM to bring the boost and power level of the Alpine supercharger kit for the 2.7L Tiburon up to Stage II level. With headers and catback and the addition of this pulley, you should see a boost increase of approximately 6lbs. Total boost you should see is around 6lbs.

$165.95 $145.95
This product was added to our catalog on Sunday 14 January, 2007.

The pulley they're offering is 2.8", the 5 lb. pulley on the Alpine S/C I've got, is approx (hey, it's cold out there) 2.25" outer lip - outer lip, which would put it near 2.125" actual dia.

Check me if I'm wrong here, but increasing the size of the driven pulley is going to make it spin slower.

It would stand to reason that their 6 lb. pulley is larger than our 5 lb. pulley because they're using a larger drive pulley on the crank.

We have a 6.5", 7.0", and 7.5". This pulley set will allow you to increase boost if you do not desire to change out the blower pulley. This set will also allow you to increase boost above and beyond the upper pulley change. We have plenty of combinations for you.


Our Alpine crank pulley measures approx 5", outer lip - outer lip.

---

You absolutely right larry,adding the latest pulley to your guys m60 will make it slower,that's not what you guys are after.

So my guess is that if you guys want more power into the blower got to get both nose & crank pulley for optimus performace & more power

Great analysis Dub.

As of this past Wednesday Alpine in SA was shipping the 5 lb pulley. The price was $65.00 and $10.00 for the bearing $16.00 shipping. Not bad. However, the company wanted wire transfer for payment rather than using a credit card and that cost me $30.00. Bummer but glad to get the OEM pulley.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Gussie2000

So my guess is that if you guys want more power into the blower got to get both nose & crank pulley for optimus performace & more power

---

I would love to have a billet crank piggyback sleeve with interchangable billet pulleys like these guys have...:drool:

http://ngmhouseofpower.com/product_i...roducts_id=143

I don't have the math skills required to figure out how much bigger the crank pulley would have to be to provide 6 lb boost, but the whole billet/interchangable thing has me thinkin'...:_thinking...:naughty:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ScottinMA

Great analysis Dub.

the company wanted wire transfer for payment rather than using a credit card and that cost me $30.00.

---

Funny though !

Master card,amex & visa " are all accepted worldwide " :mad:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Ldub

I don't have the math skills required to figure out how much bigger the crank pulley would have to be to provide 6 lb boost, but the whole billet/interchangable thing has me thinkin'...:_thinking...:naughty:

---

Well, if you do go forward with that project please keep me in mind. I was pretty excited about that factitious 6 lb pulley.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ScottinMA

Well, if you do go forward with that project please keep me in mind. I was pretty excited about that factitious 6 lb pulley.

---

I guess I shoulda said wishin' instead of thinkin'...:mbrasd:

However, if I ever hit the jackpot, maybe get a few sets CNC machined...:yesgray:

Right, it's the "size" trick Dub. I didn't even think about the listed sizes.... I was just going off of the fact that it's advertised as a "6" psi. Glad someone pointed that out at least.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ScottinMA

Great analysis Dub.

As of this past Wednesday Alpine in SA was shipping the 5 lb pulley. The price was $65.00 and $10.00 for the bearing $16.00 shipping. Not bad. However, the company wanted wire transfer for payment rather than using a credit card and that cost me $30.00. Bummer but glad to get the OEM pulley.

---

Did you get the pulley??

You have to be vary careful when these guys switch to "Wire Transfer" as most of the times you'll not see anything in return.