Timing Belt Parts

[Chopper]

Do the pump and gasket, make sure you replace the tensioner. Don't let anyone talk you out of it, brother Bart

[Ldub]

Do the pump and gasket, make sure you replace the tensioner. Don't let anyone talk you out of it, brother Bart

Good advice...

My two cents is this...any time I replace something that's "deep in" which will most likely entail a bill that's more than 60-70% labor cost(if I weren't doing it myself), I either go with OEM from Merlin, or an aftermarket source, if it's been proven as good or better than OEM...
Never shop for "internals" with price in mind...

[kpaske]

Hey Bart,

Make sure you read the Timing Belt TSB in my gallery - when I did mine I had instructions from two different sources that were both WRONG (including the CD manual) and I screwed up my timing real bad. I finally took it to a shop and it took THEM two tries before they found this info and got it right.

Kyle

[nfpgasmask]

Do the pump and gasket, make sure you replace the tensioner. Don't let anyone talk you out of it, brother Bart

Well, even good 'ol Merlin tried to talk me out of that $287.88 part, but I resisted my internal sense of cheapness and bought it anyway.

Here is a breakdown of what I purchased for the timing belt stuff and the price tag from Merlin:

1) Timing Belt - $58.79
2) Water Pump - $156.79
3) Tensioner Pulley - $287.88
4) Push Rod - $77.74
5) Post/Stud - $14
6) Upper Radiator Hose - $25.13
7) Lower Radiator Hose - $18.07
8) O-rings (coolant leak fix) - $6.58
9) Idler Pulley - $101.44

Plus a few other bits and pieces bringing me to a *quite* painful $784.88!!!

Now, at that cost, I definitely need to do the job myself. I ain't paying another huge sum for a mech to do it!!

I also asked Merlin about changing the radiator itself, and he said it really isn't necessary unless you are having problems. So, I didn't order a new radiator. But, I will be pulling it out, so is there a way to clean a radiator? I would at least like to do that.

Thanks everyone for the excellent help.

Bart

[kodiak]

That’s where I got it! Sorry deermagnet. I should just assume that all the VX wmv files I have are yours.

Bart,
All I’d do to the radiator is clean it really good. You could go get it pressure tested, But other then that there’s not mush ells you can do.

[nfpgasmask]

Bart,
All I’d do to the radiator is clean it really good. You could go get it pressure tested, But other then that there’s not mush ells you can do.

OK, cool, but how? Do I just run some water over it??? Hose it down??

Thanks - Bart

[kodiak]

OK, cool, but how? Do I just run some water over it??? Hose it down??

Thanks - Bart

That’s about it. But some dish soap and a tooth brush can help in the really tuff spots.

P.S. Don’t paint it. It will make your radiator less efficient.

[nfpgasmask]

P.S. Don’t paint it. It will make your radiator less efficient.

Paint it? Why would I paint it? It's not like I already paint every visible piece of my VX black or anything....

Thanks, Richard!

Bart

[Ascinder]

You can have your radiator rodded out at a radiator shop depending on the radiator. It's just like cleaning your gun barrel after shooting. It just pushes out all the accumulated crud and gunk that has been building up in there since day one. You could probably do it yourself too. I think you just have to remove the side caps which give you access to the radiator cores which are just horizontal tubes. Then find the right size rod to use(like possibly a .223 or .308 brass jag).