Half Shaft-Different Replacement?

[tomdietrying]

Ldub,
If I'm paying someone to replace both half shafts for me, is this the time to do the dropped differential also? Should there be an additional cost to install it or since everything is out it's just a matter of replacing the differential for the dropped differential?

Thanks.
Tom

[89Vette]

It depends on how the procedure is done.

If you went to a dealership, they'd opt to drop the differential to change halfshafts. In their books, they believe it's necessary to take out the front differential in order to unload the complete halfshaft(s). In reality, there's truth in that statement. Pulling the shafts out of the differential requires lots of clearance.

But, as posted above, you see everyone leading you to a lesser procedure. That procedure doesn't have to involve dropping the differential. In can, but doesn't really require it.

For an open-minded shop, you can show them the procedures (documented on this site) for repacking the front wheel-bearings and installing a boot kit. When a good mechanics sees those procedures, he will realize it's only necessary to unbolt the lower control arm, removed the front bearing assemblies, and disconnect the inner halfshaft CV joint. Nothing HAS to come out of the differential.

But, if you want a diff-drop anyway, they could follow the normal procedure. But, you wont' be able to provide the complete DS halfshaft -- unless you find one used or pull yours and send it to Cardone for rebuilding. Of course, that would require some time -- which most shops aren't particularly excited about. They don't like half-assembled cars sitting around their lots.

It helps to know both procedures, communicate them to your shop, and negotiate for the solution "right" for you. I found locally, that Inland Truck would be willing to perform a CV half-shaft replacement for half the price of a dealership. That's AFTER finding a service manager smart enough to look at the well-documented PDFs (found online in this website) and see it's not required to drop the differential. Inland truck has at least 20 sites nationally, so maybe another branch would consider the same procedure. You might also find an independent mechanic that's open-minded. OTOH, be prepared for Isuzu repair facilities to be closed-minded and hang-up when you suggest something that will only save YOU money. LOL

butt-wipe dealerships. I hate all of them!

In monetary terms, you should be able to save up to $500 by installing the outer portion of the halfshafts w/o a diff-drop. But, "while you're in their", if you wanted the diff-drop anyway, that really would be the time to do it. If you couldn't find an open-minded mechanic, then it would be correct to assume their would be little price difference to relocate the differential while dropping it to r/r the entire halfshafts.

Make sense?

[Ldub]

Ldub,
If I'm paying someone to replace both half shafts for me, is this the time to do the dropped differential also? Should there be an additional cost to install it or since everything is out it's just a matter of replacing the differential for the dropped differential?

Thanks.
Tom

No Sir...

It would co$t a LOT more to have them drop the center section of the front diff to install the drop brackets. The half shafts that are in need of replacement, (the parts I linked to) are fairly easy (though messy) to replace, using this how to as a guide.

The only additional step, not in the how to, is the removal of the outer grease cap/drive flange/snap ring/&shim...and the instructions found here, detail that pretty well...
IIRC, you don't need to mess with the front bearings, the shaft slides out the back after the snap ring, etc is removed.
Print both of those how to's, & show em' to your mech...

, & looking forward to seeing You in Moab...

[89Vette]

No Sir...

It would co$t a LOT more to have them drop the center section of the front diff to install the drop brackets. The half shafts that are in need of replacement, (the parts I linked to) are fairly easy (though messy) to replace, using this how to as a guide.

The only additional step, not in the how to, is the removal of the outer grease cap/drive flange/snap ring/&shim...and the instructions found here, detail that pretty well...
IIRC, you don't need to mess with the front bearings, the shaft slides out the back after the snap ring, etc is removed.
Print both of those how to's, & show em' to your mech...

Those are the exact two procedures I was referring to. They are the ones I showed Inland Truck. Because I've not removed the front wheel bearing (plus it's not clear from either document), I made a guess. Plus, it would be a good time to repack the bearings anyway, right? How about new front slotted/drilled rotors too?