3" lift kit, smart or not so smart idea....?

hi all, new to the website. looks like a terrific community. i'm in the process of doing some modifications to my '99 VX and wondered if anyone had an opinion about the following. i plan to install a calmini 3" lift-kit along with appropriately larger m&s tires. i've seen several such VX's in the gallery of this website and they look drop-dead gorgeous. however, i am a little unsure as to what this sort of thing typically does to the VX's driving characteristics, particularly on the highway. right now, my VX is actually pretty stable at 80 mph and above. so, if anyone has any sage wisdom as to whether my intended modifications will cause my VX's stability to markedly deteriorate i would appreciate knowing prior to investing the time/energy/$$. thanks in advance for any insight you guys might be able to offer a newbie.

angeno

hey whats up? welcome to the site! I have 3.5" calmini lift and i raised the torsion bar another .5" and mine handles fin on the highway. I get about 14-15 miles per gallon and I have 32" tires. On the highway mine is a little bit noisier than it was before the lift but that is because of my tires. o dont forget when you go offroading after you put the lift on if you are goin to do anything serious to diconnect one side of your sway bar. It will give you more articulation and It will keep you from snappin it. I just learned that the hard way. Newho hope thids is what you wanted...

I have heard some things about the Calmini springs so I went with the Old Man Emu 912 springs, I guess Calmini's wear down to being too soft after a year. You will want new shocks (not Bilstein 5150's see thread: "Bilstein 5150's suck") in the rear but keep the stock ones up front if they are still good. I would stick with 32's as 33's cause some rubbing issues even if you trim a lot. You will have lower rpms on the highway due to larger tires but it won't ruin the power too bad. If you choose MT tires you won't really want to go 80+mph so if you want to go fast still I would go with some BFG AT's.

If you want to buy a lift "kit" get it from www.Darlington_offroad.com But if you just want to lift it buy yourself some 912 springs crank that torsion bar to match new height, change the rear shocks and your good to go!

Ya gotta decide dude ...


Do you want a very able 4x4 "Sports Car"........

or


Do ya want a rad (even MORE eye catching) individualistic ride?

You will sacrifice speed,handling,MPG and OOOMPH!...

...but you'll get even MORE questions , comments & stares!

Frankly...lifting my ride saved my speeding points!

Take yer pick...

We all drive VX's because we aint Taurus inclined!!

jo

if anyone is still checking on these messages could some one give a bit more detailed description for me as to how i should go about this lifting? i am off raod mad so i love the look and love a bad as* ride plus superior ride control. I am asking cause i would like to order these upgrades as easy and as fast as possible so i can join in on the off road maddness with you.

You'll :heart: the search function...:smilewink

48.243 seconds...:_wrench:

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...ight=lift+wiki

i tried to use the search ones :upsetgray.. but when i clicked on it ,,it was empty:confused:

Hey there! Opening back up the discussion of lift kits!!

So, looking at one of the kits on Rocky-Road, I see something like this and I wonder what they are thinking here, or what makes the individual pieces less expensive than the actual package?
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...mbs/VXlift.png

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by HeckaTrebeka

Hey there! Opening back up the discussion of lift kits!!

So, looking at one of the kits on indy4x, I see something like this and I wonder what they are thinking here, or what makes the individual pieces less expensive than the actual package?
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...mbs/VXlift.png

---

I could only assume that the 'complete suspension' probably also includes diff drop parts, and maybe tougher ball joints?

I own that kit.... actually mine is the 919.... I see the price dif too. I paid the kit price when we ordered ours. These kits don't come with dif drop plates.
Kit includes
2 front shocks
2 rear shocks
2 rear springs

I do love our 919 kit, the shocks are incredible.

By "incredible" what do you mean? Just as hard/stiff as stock?

The shocks are oversized by design. The case on the shocks are larger, the piston is larger, probably contains move volume of fluid too.
As for the ride, I love it, lifted with 32's on 18's and load E tires.....It's stiff yet still predicable.
Translation.... my 4 year old calls it bouncy buggy.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by LittleBeast

By "incredible" what do you mean? Just as hard/stiff as stock?

---

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by VxSport

The shocks are oversized by design. The case on the shocks are larger, the piston is larger, probably contains move volume of fluid too.
As for the ride, I love it, lifted with 32's on 18's and load E tires.....It's stiff yet still predicable.
Translation.... my 4 year old calls it bouncy buggy.

---

Lol so who out here had bought the calmini lift? It's about $100 more than this kit from indy 4x. What's the difference in feel and does the calmini kit come with a diff drop?

None of the kits come with a diff drop. They were a community project here. Joe Darlington can still set you up with them.

The only thing that the CalMini kit gives you that the other kit doesn't is a replacement crossmember (which you don't need) and a panhard rod drop bracket (probably not needed either). The Indy kit is probably much beefier & your better option ... IMHO.

Ah, yes, I noticed that the calmini kit comes with those two sway bars. There are two options on the the [s]indy4x[/s] Rocky-Road kit as well. One for medium duty and one for heavy duty. I would like to get the one best suited for me but I'm not sure if I'll need a heavy duty lift kit as I'm not planning on towing anything with this vehicle, and I don't want the suspension to feel like there is none, but I would like to be able to load stuff into the vx without it being bogged down by the cargo... aaand in the future I'm thinking that the V8 swap AutoPros is doing would be something that I would like to do as well...

I lifted mine with the moog 784 springs $80 shipped, and 10 minutes in the shop to modify them. I think about 9 turns on the torsion bar bolt in the front. I can't see why you would want to spend any more money than this to lift a vx/trooper.
I can see how building drop brackets would be nice for the vx if running the stock TOD system. I made a set for my RS trooper, but have not for the vx yet.
The money saved on the lift can be used on heavy duty tie rods, which you will likely need if you wheel in the rocks much.

It really doesn't sound like you need a kit. You can just buy springs and crank the torsion bars down a few turns to get a couple inches of lift for cheap... it worked for me

So I thought I was looking into independent4x and realized that this was not the same lift kit I was looking at. The ones at indy4x are much more expensive and include the following:

OME progressive rate rear lift coils
Independent4x 1" Coil spring spacers
Rear 3 piece Extreme Duty adjustable link set
Full 5 piece extended length Braided steel brake line set
Heavy Duty front torsion Bar springs
Front Ball Joint Spacers with hardware
Low profile bumpstop kit
4 Ranch 9000 XL gas charged adjustable shocks
4 shock boots
Front & rear poly sway bar bushing sets
Independent4x rear lower coil spring retainers & hardware
Front HD tie rods
instructions
decal

Would I want to spend the $2500 on this kit, or should I try out the much cheaper Rocky-Road kit that possibly only includes just the shocks and springs?

Oh yeah - be sure and put aside a BIG pile of extra $ NOW, for the CV joints, CV boots, U-Joints, and all the OTHER stuff you'll be breaking after you lift one of these - don't forget to do THAT too!:winko:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TheGanzman

Oh yeah - be sure and put aside a BIG pile of extra $ NOW, for the CV joints, CV boots, U-Joints, and all the OTHER stuff you'll be breaking after you lift one of these - don't forget to do THAT too!:winko:

---

Sometimes it is sad, but true. :(

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by HeckaTrebeka

So I thought I was looking into independent4x and realized that this was not the same lift kit I was looking at. The ones at indy4x are much more expensive and include the following:

OME progressive rate rear lift coils
Independent4x 1" Coil spring spacers
Rear 3 piece Extreme Duty adjustable link set
Full 5 piece extended length Braided steel brake line set
Heavy Duty front torsion Bar springs
Front Ball Joint Spacers with hardware
Low profile bumpstop kit
4 Ranch 9000 XL gas charged adjustable shocks
4 shock boots
Front & rear poly sway bar bushing sets
Independent4x rear lower coil spring retainers & hardware
Front HD tie rods
instructions
decal

Would I want to spend the $2500 on this kit, or should I try out the much cheaper Rocky-Road kit that possibly only includes just the shocks and springs?

---

This kit has a lot of really good lift parts, it's expensive but most of it's completely worth the price.

However, you still need a diff drop which isn't included in the lift kit. Even if you just start with new coil springs and torsion bar crank, get a front 2" diff drop. It's essential to keep the CVs in good condition.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by VXorado

This kit has a lot of really good lift parts, it's expensive but most of it's completely worth the price.

However, you still need a diff drop which isn't included in the lift kit. Even if you just start with new coil springs and torsion bar crank, get a front 2" diff drop. It's essential to keep the CVs in good condition.

---

Can't I just get those extended CV boots I saw somewhere on rocky-road? Is the issue with the CV joints that they start leaking lube at such a sharp angle?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by HeckaTrebeka

Can't I just get those extended CV boots I saw somewhere on rocky-road? Is the issue with the CV joints that they start leaking lube at such a sharp angle?

---

1. CV's don't like agressive angles - causes them to wear out quicker.

2. Your CV's have 'worn in'. With the lift, your bearings inside the CV will run at a different location in the outer race (green cup). The bearings moving into & out of that groove may cause them to fail.

3. The agressive angle of the CV will probably cause your boot to split or even tear in two. That's the most common problem lifted VX's experience. If you don't catch it immediately, the joint will run dry & fail.

So far, there doesn't seem to be much promise that aftermarket boots really last any length of time with the agressive angles. If you go that route, let us know how it works out for you.

My turn I guess. I lifted mine 4 yrs ago, OME 919s, rancho9000xl shocks, greasable sway bar bsushing front and rear, ball joint flip and low profile bump stops, front locker. I run 34" kevlar MTRs. I NEVER disconnect either sway bar, just installed the greasable bushings, no problems. I wheel mine quite a bit, Moab, KS, GA, NC, SC etc. I have minimal rubbing, only in the rear on descent braking, which is since the rear axle is raked so far forward. I removed the front fender liners and cut the bottom off of the front cladding.
It handles fine, drove all the way form KC, MO to Seattle, stopped in Kansas and Moab for some wheeling. No issues, mid teens on MPG.
I did do the diff drop when I installed the SFIFS kit. Sometimes wish I hadn't. Although it does straighten out CVs, I have since lowered the front back down, the offroad performance is significantly better than when I had the front cranked up high, which puts the CVs at a somewhat negative angle. CVs don't like that:(
There is a downfall to the diff drop, it then changes the angle for the front prop shaft CV. I have already replaced that, and subsequently have another torn boot. THe boot is flanged in, so really no legitimate way to fix that without replacing it. I have manual front hubs, so I only "drive" the front end when offroading. It still spins at the whims of TOD, but not under load.
I HIGHLY recommend the Ranchos without the incab adjuster, the stiff stock suspension is a killer offroad, dial the ranchos down to one and it is much softer on the trails. I street them all at 9. I also strongly recommend 919s instead of 912s or 913s. They are much stiffer, and a little taller, I have them in my wife's trooper as well. Bump stops are nice, but not a neccessity.
I wouldn't touch the calmini kit, and would piece together your own form Indy based on what you want your truck to do.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TheGanzman

Oh yeah - be sure and put aside a BIG pile of extra $ NOW, for the CV joints, CV boots, U-Joints, and all the OTHER stuff you'll be breaking after you lift one of these - don't forget to do THAT too!:winko:

---

Well.. We are negative today arent we?

Dont worry about this too much, its all relative to the amount of lift. Sure, over 3 inches and i would expect more repairs, but as long as you stay around 3" or less, its not that hard on the VX. I had mine lifted for 7 years with no problems of any of the things ganz mentioned. I didnt even do the allusive BJ flip. Just new springs, cranked torsion bars, and an alignment, off you go!

I'm thinking a 3" lift will do me just fine. I'm not planning on turning my vx into a mudder, or even an advanced off-road-er. Just want a little height with some 32-33" wheels. I found some BFG's that look really awesome for snow/trail driving so I'm going to be saving up to get those installed before the trip. I don't want to get into gearing yet, though...

The vx runs fabulous on road and off with the 3" lift and 33's. You will be happy :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by pbkid

The vx runs fabulous on road and off with the 3" lift and 33's. You will be happy :)

---

I'll second that opinion!!:bgwo:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Marlin

I did do the diff drop when I installed the SFIFS kit. Sometimes wish I hadn't. Although it does straighten out CVs, I have since lowered the front back down, the offroad performance is significantly better than when I had the front cranked up high, which puts the CVs at a somewhat negative angle. CVs don't like that:(

---

Marlin,

I have a set of unmodified diff brackets if you're interested.

Tom

Why not just do a 3" Body Lift. No increase angle on the CV's. I did it. Also keeps center of gravity lower for better handling on-road. ( Indy4x has the 3" BL kits )

A body lift does nothing for ground clearance. But those 35s do:)

Is Angeno even reading all of this?? Other than the original post, nothing.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Maddawg

Is Angeno even reading all of this?? Other than the original post, nothing.

---

Hekka re-opened this 3+ yr old thread here...click

Sooooooo...prolly not...:smilewink

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Ldub

Hekka re-opened this 3+ yr old thread here...click

Sooooooo...prolly not...:smilewink

---

Hmmmm, very confusing. Thanks! (note to self, look at post date.) :winky: