Engineering help needed

A couple years ago I stripped the threads on my grill's rotisserie motor, so they sent me a new motor and this counter weight. However, they didn't send any means to anchor it, except that threaded disk, that does not attach to my rod. I need to come up with some simple method to keep the weight secured to the rod so it doesn't slide (left/right,in/out) and also doesn't fall over when it reaches the top. I'll have it mounted inside the grill, so it will subjected to lots of heat, grease, etc. I have a lot of little hardware laying around, but thought I would open this up to the forum to think "outside the box", for some obviously simple method I haven't thought of yet. Your prize... all the turkey you want (white meat...I don't like it...pick-up only!) :)

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/93725352/Gr...ight%20004.jpg

What's the cross section dimension of the square shaft?

I was think'n something like this...in stainless, of course...:smilewink

Kinda hard to tell if the "threaded weight" is supposed to attach to the bottom of the silver/chrome cylinder (with loop) or what.

Clamp sounds like a reasonable option

Obviously drilling/tapping with a stud is an option.

I'll also tell you that I've found (and used) a 2000-deg adhesive in the past. You could fill the cylinder if it's suppose to wrap around that square peg.

http://www.cotronics.com/vo/cotr/newprod.htm

Why do you need the counter-weight at all??????

Just run a Google image search for "rotisserie" and "counterweight" and you'll surely find enough visual examples to figure out how you can utilize the pieces you have.

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Originally Posted by Ldub

What's the cross section dimension of the square shaft?

I was think'n something like this...in stainless, of course...:smilewink

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It's a standard 5/16" square rod. Your idea is ideal, however, I don't happen to have any of those in my junk box. :)

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Originally Posted by 89Vette

Kinda hard to tell if the "threaded weight" is supposed to attach to the bottom of the silver/chrome cylinder (with loop) or what.
Clamp sounds like a reasonable option
Obviously drilling/tapping with a stud is an option.
I'll also tell you that I've found (and used) a 2000-deg adhesive in the past. You could fill the cylinder if it's suppose to wrap around that square peg.
http://www.cotronics.com/vo/cotr/newprod.htm

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The "threaded weight" is not a weight. but more of a threaded "stop" to be used with a screw-on handle found on many spits. My rod is not threaded, so I can't use that part. I do have a set of dies, but my rod end sits in a cradle, so attaching the counter weight to the end is not an option. It has to be inside the grill, close to the bird. I do need some kind of clamping hardware, but what and where. I have some ideas I will try to post later.

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Originally Posted by Maddawg

Why do you need the counter-weight at all??????

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Turkeys are very hard to balance, and also tend to move around during cooking. My last two attempts have resulted in stripped gears and/or failed motors leading to brurnt turkey! Not good.

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Originally Posted by Y33TREKker

Just run a Google image search for "rotisserie" and "counterweight" and you'll surely find enough visual examples to figure out how you can utilize the pieces you have.

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I did that and found no one using this style counterweight without the screw-on handle mount. I need to improvise.

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Originally Posted by Cobrajet

It's a standard 5/16" square rod. Your idea is ideal, however, I don't happen to have any of those in my junk box. :)

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http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...slingblade.jpg

Way'll thay'n...I reckon you otter use you a couple of thay'm thar small vice griyups...:smack: Ummmmm-Hmmmmmm...

Clamped to your shaft, opposing each other's weight. Yessir...

They'll do in a pinch...:smilewink

Maybe even small C clamps...or hose clamps..or wrap some wire...but no duct tape...

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Originally Posted by Ldub

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...slingblade.jpg

Way'll thay'n...I reckon you otter use you a couple of thay'm thar small vice griyups...:smack: Ummmmm-Hmmmmmm...

Clamped to your shaft, opposing each other's weight. Yessir...

They'll do in a pinch...:smilewink

Maybe even small C clamps...or hose clamps..or wrap some wire...but no duct tape...

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ROFL

At the end of last summer, the blade engage cable on my riding mower snapped. To finish the lawn, I pulled the cable through the running board & secured it with a pair of vice grips. They are still there today!!!

Cobra - can't see your pix whilst at work (so I can't recommend anything) but I'd be happy to help you modify the counterweight with whatever design you come up with.

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Originally Posted by Ldub

[img]
Clamped to your shaft

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Ouch! Sounds painful. :D

Here are a couple of my ideas. Actually, either one will work. I'm leaning towards the second one, since it is smaller, simple, and more stable on "my shaft."

Still open to ideas, but this may give you some idea what I am trying to accomplish. I'm sure Tom will come up with some ingenious device that will revolutionize rotisserie grilling as we know it.

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/93725352/Gr...%20%282%29.JPG

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/93725352/Gr...%20%282%29.JPG

Ok, back to square one. Why not call the manufacturer and explain your dilemma and ask for the missing pieces or at least an explanation of any missing pieces? Are they out of business?

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Originally Posted by Cobrajet

Still open to ideas, but this may give you some idea what I am trying to accomplish. I'm sure Tom will come up with some ingenious device that will revolutionize rotisserie grilling as we know it.

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Actually, I was thinking about developing a PTO from the VX that could provide the input to a hydraulic pump which in turn would feed the venturi of the drive mechanism of a stator mounted rotational effector within the ether containment enclosure of said convection coloric dispersement device.

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Originally Posted by tom4bren

Actually, I was thinking about developing a PTO from the VX that could provide the input to a hydraulic pump which in turn would feed the venturi of the drive mechanism of a stator mounted rotational effector within the ether containment enclosure of said convection coloric dispersement device.

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I was thinking the same thing until I factored in the cumulative parasitic losses associated with a multiple-interface, redundant convective pulse drive in combination with a stationary inverse wave reducer to obviate the oscillations inherent in the horizontal bi-polar twin-screw spindle. :)

http://image.healthdeep.com/90/1567404.jpg

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Originally Posted by Cobrajet

I was thinking the same thing until I factored in the cumulative parasitic losses associated with a multiple-interface, redundant convective pulse drive in combination with a stationary inverse wave reducer to obviate the oscillations inherent in the horizontal bi-polar twin-screw spindle. :)

http://image.healthdeep.com/90/1567404.jpg

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The parasitic losses associated with a multiple-interface, redundant convective pulse drive are mitigated by obviating the vibrational component via structural stiffening.

The stationary inverse wave reducer to obviate the oscillations inherent in the horizontal bi-polar twin-screw spindle issue is de-facto eliminated by the inherent autonomous dampening of the hydraulic drive mechanism.

DAYUM son ... one or both of us really gotta get a life.

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Originally Posted by tom4bren

Actually, I was thinking about developing a PTO from the VX that could provide the input to a hydraulic pump which in turn would feed the venturi of the drive mechanism of a stator mounted rotational effector within the ether containment enclosure of said convection coloric dispersement device.

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Yes but I think you both overlooked the the obvious potential of a photon drive principal coupled with the advantages of inherent reverse osmosis factored into the equation. However this could be overlooked by factoring in a mass damper to offset the effect of parametric deviations.

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Originally Posted by Maddawg

Yes but I think you both overlooked the the obvious potential of a photon drive principal coupled with the advantages of inherent reverse osmosis factoring in the equation.

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Considered & rejected.

Photon drive principal is only theoretically effective in the vacuum of space.

Reverse osmosis will only be effective if somebody pisses on CobraJet's charcoal ... & we can't have none of that.

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Originally Posted by tom4bren

Considered & rejected.

Photon drive principal is only theoretically effective in the vacuum of space.

Reverse osmosis will only be effective if somebody pisses on CobraJet's charcoal ... & we can't have none of that.

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Sez you. That's the prescribed manner in which I douse my coals. :smilegray :smilegray :smilegray :smilegray

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Originally Posted by Cobrajet

Here are a couple of my ideas. Actually, either one will work. I'm leaning towards the second one, since it is smaller, simple, and more stable on "my shaft."

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Wow! All these BIG exotic words and the obvious, most important point was already thrown out there.

Getting something stable on your shaft is always VERY important. LDub's new status shows he feels the same way!

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Originally Posted by 89Vette

Wow! All these BIG exotic words and the obvious, most important point was already thrown out there.

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Okay, then I will ask a related question...

Question: What is the best way to balance a turkey on a rotisserie spit?

Answer: Use a counter balance weight??

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Some rotisseries have counterweights that can be adjusted to provide proper balancing of the turkey on the spit.

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if there is a heavy side then you aught to balance it out instead of putting unnecessary stress on the motor.

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Use counterweights, if your rotisserie came with them, to balance the weight properly.

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Toss it in the oven.

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Originally Posted by Maddawg

Toss it in the oven.

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That has been my last resort for the last two years! It's still edible, but just not as tasty! (And it doesn't help that one side of the bird has been burnt slightly.)