CV's and Bearings

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05/03/2012, 07:52 AM
UWVX89

CV's and Bearings

I have been told that I need to replace both front end CV's and bearings on both sides. Has anyone else run into this problem?
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Anyone near Madison, WI who can help with this?
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Prices? Recommended Parts?
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Also my Check Engine and Check Trans lights have been on for sometime now. -No issues driving the vehicle, shifts fine
-All fluids are at their correct levels
-MPG has went down and seems to be worse at highway speeds.
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Suggestions please!!
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http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._3844393_n.jpg
05/03/2012, 08:03 AM
UWVX89

Also, there is a loud, loud bang in the rear of my VX when I am traveling at about 30+mph over bumps. Sounds as if the interior panels are jumping inside of the car. Has anyone else had this problem or heard of this?
05/03/2012, 08:43 AM
circmand

Be prepared this can be tricky

"Empi 80-3619 100% New Constant Velocity Premium Complete CV Half Shaft Drive Axle Assembly"
$59.95
In Stock
Sold by: RWI America, Inc.

I just had to replace one CV Joint. I ordered from Amazon they had the wrong one listed for the VX. So I ordered from Autozone and they listed the wrong one. Then thanks to a member here I got the right part number went to Amazon again and ordered the one listed above and it worked. If you want you can google RWI America and call them directly. They are real nice. After explaining my situation they sent my order out same day and it arrived quicker than it would have and at no charge.
05/03/2012, 09:10 AM
VX KAT

There's dozens of posts about both the CVs and the loud bang in the rear.

Do a search and you'll find a ton of info about both.

Search:
CV joints

And do a search on:
~ slamming
~ jarring
~ cutting rear bump stops in half
~ expansion joints

Many of us have cut our rear bump stops in half and improved the slamming issue quite a bit. There's lots of pics too of the rear stops.

OK....here's a head start.....;)

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...pansion+joints

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...ght=bump+stops
05/03/2012, 09:16 AM
Triathlete

The load noise on bumps can also be the spare tire or jack has come lose.
When you say "bearings" are you refering to the balls in the CV cage (those are part of the CV assembly) or are you talking about the wheel bearings...they are a completely different beast?
05/03/2012, 02:15 PM
twostep1n2

Just did half shafts and break rotors last weekend. I had some noise coming from driver side outer CV for some time. last week i noticed that the inner boot was torn so I ordered the shafts from amazon and went at it. as i tore it down I found the the breaks were near gone so I got the new rotors and pads for pep boys. To replace the shafts just unbolt the lower ball joint from the A arm and pivot it back so it pulls out of the green cup. then remove the C clip on the wheel end of the shaft and pull it out from the a arm side. EMPI part # 80-3619 is the number if you order from amazon it will say its not the right part for a Vx but it is. Have fun
05/03/2012, 04:59 PM
Triathlete

The empi part number is actually for a Trooper...but it works just fine (balls are just a bit smaller).

In the words of AC/DC..."we got big balls"! :D
05/04/2012, 09:03 PM
89Vette

Quote:

Originally Posted by twostep1n2

Just did half shafts...To replace the shafts just unbolt the lower ball joint from the A arm and pivot it back so it pulls out of the green cup. then remove the C clip on the wheel end of the shaft and pull it out from the a arm side.

Did you need a puller or anything to separate the halfshaft from the cup or the wheel? How long did it take? 2hrs/side?

Sounds easier than I thought it might be! :bwgy:
05/04/2012, 09:19 PM
VXorado

Quote:

Originally Posted by 89Vette

Did you need a puller or anything to separate the halfshaft from the cup or the wheel? How long did it take? 2hrs/side?

Sounds easier than I thought it might be! :bwgy:

Not trying to answer for twostep but here's a write up with pics.

http://www.vehicross.info/modules.ph...warticle&id=48

It's pretty easy and will take a couple hours the first time but after that you can have the job completed in under an hour.
05/05/2012, 07:43 AM
Ldub

Quote:

Originally Posted by VXorado

Not trying to answer for twostep but here's a write up with pics.

http://www.vehicross.info/modules.ph...warticle&id=48

It's pretty easy and will take a couple hours the first time but after that you can have the job completed in under an hour.

X-2...I've done CV boots on both sides, (all the same steps) in a little over three hrs...in a cold/windy motel parking lot, out Wyo way...on the way to Moab a couple of yrs ago...:yesgray:..:_wrench:

Not fun, but it got done.
05/05/2012, 08:19 AM
89Vette

Quote:

Originally Posted by VXorado

Not trying to answer for twostep but here's a write up with pics.

http://www.vehicross.info/modules.ph...warticle&id=48

It's pretty easy and will take a couple hours the first time but after that you can have the job completed in under an hour.

I'd seen that pdf before...but it only shows separate of the inboard joint (from the green cup).

I'd also seen the wheelbearing pack pdf which doesn't show separation of the splined outer CV from the wheel itself.

I wouldn't have asked the question I asked if I'd felt they were still unanswered. How does the outboard CV separate from the wheel? snap ring and pull? snap ring and puller? IDK.
05/05/2012, 08:22 AM
Ldub

Quote:

Originally Posted by 89Vette

snap ring and pull?

:yesgray:
05/05/2012, 09:08 AM
89Vette

Wow. And, Isuzu dealership's feel great for charging $800/side for this?

Only $400/hr?

Like I said, I didn't buy it because it's an Isuzu. (I bought it because it's almost a Chevy! LOL)
05/05/2012, 02:26 PM
Triathlete

There is actually a write up I did if you can find it (I think it went to archives) for removal of the shafts. I can never find it though :(
05/05/2012, 02:31 PM
Triathlete

I found it...http://vehicross.info/forums/showthr...highlight=save
05/05/2012, 07:02 PM
VXorado

Quote:

Originally Posted by 89Vette

I wouldn't have asked the question I asked if I'd felt they were still unanswered. How does the outboard CV separate from the wheel? snap ring and pull? snap ring and puller? IDK.

Yeah I just misunderstood your question. I'm surprised that part isn't in the writeup, little strange.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 89Vette

Wow. And, Isuzu dealership's feel great for charging $800/side for this?

Only $400/hr?

Like I said, I didn't buy it because it's an Isuzu. (I bought it because it's almost a Chevy! LOL)

As Billy had in his past thread, the dealership replaces the entire half shaft which should include the green cup/jack shaft. This would require dropping the diff which would add hours of labor to the cost. Maybe thats why the dealership charges $850/side?

Regardless the EMPI half shafts work great for $60... as long as you don't need to replace the green cups :)
05/06/2012, 08:08 PM
twostep1n2

Quote:

Originally Posted by 89Vette

Did you need a puller or anything to separate the halfshaft from the cup or the wheel? How long did it take? 2hrs/side?

Sounds easier than I thought it might be! :bwgy:

It took about 1.5 hours per side. No puller just a set of snap ring pliers and a good jack. there is a ring retainer inside the green cup that snaps into a groove just inside. Use a very small screw drive or an ice pick to pick it out. You will need to jack up the A arm wile you swivel the ball joint out from under it. Read the how to posts and check out the manual for details.
05/06/2012, 09:18 PM
89Vette

Quote:

Originally Posted by VXorado

As Billy had in his past thread, the dealership replaces the entire half shaft which should include the green cup/jack shaft. This would require dropping the diff which would add hours of labor to the cost. Maybe thats why the dealership charges $850/side?

It is why. OTOH, both the Isuzu stealerships in Kansas City wouldn't listen to the easy way to pull halfshafts. I offered to provide links on this "how-to" in order to provide quotes for the easier job. Olathe Isuzu said "No thanks." Jack Miller Isuzu service hung up on me.

That's about what I think of dealerships too!

What a rip.

Thanks for the feedback guys!

(BTW...Inland Truck in Olathe quoted $250/side for this procedure....Maybe other I.T. facilities in the country would follow-suit?) Sounds much better to me. OTOH, I'd be the DIYer kind of guy...)
05/07/2012, 03:13 AM
etlsport

Check your back for to see if its tight. mine comes lose every so often and it sounds awful
05/07/2012, 07:15 PM
89Vette

Quote:

Originally Posted by etlsport

Check your back for to see if its tight. mine comes lose every so often and it sounds awful

Check my backside to see if it's tight? :laughing:

Now that you mention it, I do hear something pretty awful coming from back there. :bwgy::smilewink:bgwo::bgwb:

Seriously....say what?
05/08/2012, 06:58 AM
Ldub

Quote:

Originally Posted by etlsport

Check your back for to see if its tight. mine comes lose every so often and it sounds awful

Quote:

Originally Posted by 89Vette

Check my backside to see if it's tight? :laughing:

Now that you mention it, I do hear something pretty awful coming from back there. :bwgy::smilewink:bgwo::bgwb:

Seriously....say what?

X-2...ya lost me there too Eric...:confused:.:_wrench:.?
05/08/2012, 10:20 AM
UWVX89

Quote:

Originally Posted by Triathlete

The load noise on bumps can also be the spare tire or jack has come lose.
When you say "bearings" are you refering to the balls in the CV cage (those are part of the CV assembly) or are you talking about the wheel bearings...they are a completely different beast?

I need wheel bearings
05/08/2012, 08:20 PM
89Vette

Quote:

Originally Posted by UWVX89

I need wheel bearings

Isuzu says that's very rare [to need]. Howduya know?
05/08/2012, 08:36 PM
UWVX89

There's a lot of play in both front wheels, inch or so either direction, and I have had multiple sources in the area say they need replaced.
05/08/2012, 10:57 PM
PK

Quote:

Originally Posted by UWVX89

There's a lot of play in both front wheels, inch or so either direction, and I have had multiple sources in the area say they need replaced.

Well if your wheels have more than 1/8" play in any direction, I sure as hell hope you are not driving it on the road.
That is especially true if the free play is in the bearings.

Make sure you do the needle roller bearing in the centre of the hub at the same time.

PK

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