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I need to replace two half shafts. The drivers side has been located. but the passenger side has not. What is the replacement shaft some of you have been using?
Robert told me at the Dallas get together today, but I forgot. Triathlete's name was brought up as having the replacement in his VX. Does this sound familiar to anyone?
Thanks.
Tom
I am running the Empi shafts. If you are replacing from the green cups out the part numbers are the same for both sides.
Good posts above. For more detail, look here....
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=21878
Ldub,
If I'm paying someone to replace both half shafts for me, is this the time to do the dropped differential also? Should there be an additional cost to install it or since everything is out it's just a matter of replacing the differential for the dropped differential?
Thanks.
Tom
It depends on how the procedure is done.
If you went to a dealership, they'd opt to drop the differential to change halfshafts. In their books, they believe it's necessary to take out the front differential in order to unload the complete halfshaft(s). In reality, there's truth in that statement. Pulling the shafts out of the differential requires lots of clearance.
But, as posted above, you see everyone leading you to a lesser procedure. That procedure doesn't have to involve dropping the differential. In can, but doesn't really require it.
For an open-minded shop, you can show them the procedures (documented on this site) for repacking the front wheel-bearings and installing a boot kit. When a good mechanics sees those procedures, he will realize it's only necessary to unbolt the lower control arm, removed the front bearing assemblies, and disconnect the inner halfshaft CV joint. Nothing HAS to come out of the differential.
But, if you want a diff-drop anyway, they could follow the normal procedure. But, you wont' be able to provide the complete DS halfshaft -- unless you find one used or pull yours and send it to Cardone for rebuilding. Of course, that would require some time -- which most shops aren't particularly excited about. They don't like half-assembled cars sitting around their lots.
It helps to know both procedures, communicate them to your shop, and negotiate for the solution "right" for you. I found locally, that Inland Truck would be willing to perform a CV half-shaft replacement for half the price of a dealership. That's AFTER finding a service manager smart enough to look at the well-documented PDFs (found online in this website) and see it's not required to drop the differential. Inland truck has at least 20 sites nationally, so maybe another branch would consider the same procedure. You might also find an independent mechanic that's open-minded. OTOH, be prepared for Isuzu repair facilities to be closed-minded and hang-up when you suggest something that will only save YOU money. LOL
butt-wipe dealerships. I hate all of them!
In monetary terms, you should be able to save up to $500 by installing the outer portion of the halfshafts w/o a diff-drop. But, "while you're in their", if you wanted the diff-drop anyway, that really would be the time to do it. If you couldn't find an open-minded mechanic, then it would be correct to assume their would be little price difference to relocate the differential while dropping it to r/r the entire halfshafts.
Make sense?
No Sir...:_wrench:Quote:
Originally Posted by tomdietrying
It would co$t a LOT more to have them drop the center section of the front diff to install the drop brackets. The half shafts that are in need of replacement, (the parts I linked to) are fairly easy (though messy) to replace, using this how to as a guide.
The only additional step, not in the how to, is the removal of the outer grease cap/drive flange/snap ring/&shim...and the instructions found here, detail that pretty well...:yesgray:
IIRC, you don't need to mess with the front bearings, the shaft slides out the back after the snap ring, etc is removed.
Print both of those how to's, & show em' to your mech...:_wrench:
:luck:, & looking forward to seeing You in Moab...:dance:
Those are the exact two procedures I was referring to. They are the ones I showed Inland Truck. Because I've not removed the front wheel bearing (plus it's not clear from either document), I made a guess. Plus, it would be a good time to repack the bearings anyway, right? How about new front slotted/drilled rotors too?Quote:
Originally Posted by Ldub
Are you sure 3619 is the correct part#? In both links VX isn't mentioned. In fact, the Amazon link says "This part won't fit your car."Quote:
Originally Posted by Ldub
Yep, part number is actually for a Trooper.
You went too deep into the whole research thing again...:smilewinkQuote:
Originally Posted by 89Vette
http://www.amazon.com/Empi-80-3619-J...owViewpoints=1
What him say, since he's purchased/installed/wheeled the product in question, I'll take his word for it...:yesgray:Quote:
Originally Posted by Triathlete
I bring a pair of em' with me to Moab, as spares...& they currently reside in my garage.
Took you guys word for it and ordered the 3619 today!
Thanks a bunch!
Gregg
Tom I had shop installed both shafts and dropped diff in one swoop. It wasnt cheap however it came down to how much is my time worth and how comfortable I felt doing the work myself. I provided them with "said" instructions which lowered price a bit. Majority of the price was the axle replacement itself. I had a few other things done (for Moab)but it was around 900 IIRC. Now thinking about it with extra stuff I had bought/done it would have been 700??
I pulled Empi's catalog cuz I am due for the axles but what is the difference between the 80-3619 and the 80-1039 as they are only $10 difference in price? It says it is the same part number for both sides but something about a inboard joint?
http://www.empius.com/2011_driveaxle...xles_pg37.html
The 3619 is the half shaft which fits both sides...it is the outer section only on the long side. The other would be the entire long side shaft (the half shaft and jack shaft). The problem with the long shaft is it uses a different type of joint that tends to bind when you flex the suspension.
I replaced my driver side half shaft with a A-1 Cardone reman from Summit racing last fall. I am happy with it so far but I only drive on the street. Now it is time for the passenger side, boot just ripped. I think i will order the empi this time. Summits web site now wants $100 core charge and you have to pay the return shipping.