Having trouble removing shocks.. HELP

Printable View

03/20/2012, 04:13 PM
Osteomata

Having trouble removing shocks.. HELP

Based upon the recommendation from you guys that replacing my own shocks was quite easy (you bastards!) I started the job this evening. Replacing OEm shocks with Ranchos. I got the top nut off easy enough, and with the help of a breaker bar I got the bottom nut off, but the bolt doesn't seem to be coming free. I am looking at my rancho replacement shocks and the bottom eye does not seem to be threaded, so why won't the bolt come out? I tried unscrewing it with my socket wrench, and granted that I don't have room for more than two clicks at a time, but after working it for some time I see no movement out of the holes. I tried hitting it with a hammer to no effect. Any recommendations?
03/20/2012, 04:47 PM
Y33TREKker

I usually use a center punch (that's a little smaller diameter than the bolt) and a hammer to drive it out from the threaded end.
03/20/2012, 04:48 PM
Triathlete

It should slide out...probably rusted. Blast it with some wd40/pbblaster and give a nice love tap with the hammer.
03/20/2012, 05:00 PM
MSHardeman

Quote:

Originally Posted by Osteomata

Based upon the recommendation from you guys that replacing my own shocks was quite easy (you bastards!) I started the job this evening. Replacing OEm shocks with Ranchos. I got the top nut off easy enough, and with the help of a breaker bar I got the bottom nut off, but the bolt doesn't seem to be coming free. I am looking at my rancho replacement shocks and the bottom eye does not seem to be threaded, so why won't the bolt come out? I tried unscrewing it with my socket wrench, and granted that I don't have room for more than two clicks at a time, but after working it for some time I see no movement out of the holes. I tried hitting it with a hammer to no effect. Any recommendations?

Osteo, are you talking about the front or rear shocks? If it's the rear shocks the lower "bolt" is actually a threaded rod that is welded to the rear axle. You'll need to get something to use to bang on the shock with (brass drift, stout piece of wood, etc.) Put that at the base of the shock, under the "bolt" and give it a few good whacks to get the shock off.
03/20/2012, 05:50 PM
Osteomata

Its the front shock. Gonna find some WD40 now, and find a center punch and try again. thanks, I will let you know.
03/20/2012, 06:17 PM
VXorado

I had the same thing happen to one of my Old Man Emu shocks. PB blaster will work better than WD40 as a pentrating oil. Good luck.
03/20/2012, 06:41 PM
Osteomata

I just spent another 15 minutes beating on it rather severely with a 1 inch dowel between the bold and my hammer, after soaking it with WD40. No change at all. This is intensely frustrating. I had to rebolt the shock back up in order to have a drivable vehicle tomorrow. Not sure what to try next.

The bolt does turn with my socket wrench, though quite stiffly and with a good amount of resistance. The shock is not putting any pressure laterally on the bolt as I can pull it completely free of the top connection point.
03/20/2012, 06:54 PM
RabidPony

I'm assuming you have the front off the ground? Just checking. Also, make sure there is no tension on the shock, that will make it substantially harder to remove that bolt.
03/20/2012, 07:23 PM
Ldub

Quote:

Originally Posted by RabidPony

I'm assuming you have the front off the ground? Just checking. Also, make sure there is no tension on the shock, that will make it substantially harder to remove that bolt.

What he say...:_wrench:

There should be a jackstand under the frame,(EVERY time a tire leaves the ground) then use whatever jacking device you're using, to jack up the lower control arm to remove any tension from the shock mount. Just a little at a time, until the pressure of the torsion bar is relieved from the shock mount.

A pickle fork can also come in real handy...:yesgray:
03/20/2012, 08:05 PM
Mile High VX

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ldub

What he say...:_wrench:

There should be a jackstand under the frame,(EVERY time a tire leaves the ground) then use whatever jacking device you're using, to jack up the lower control arm to remove any tension from the shock mount. Just a little at a time, until the pressure of the torsion bar is relieved from the shock mount.

You a good man Ldub...keep us safe Bro!
03/20/2012, 08:22 PM
Ldub

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mile High VX

You a good man Ldub...keep us safe Bro!

Meh...:_confused

It's just info...VXinfo, that is...:smilewink
03/20/2012, 08:48 PM
VXorado

Quote:

Originally Posted by Osteomata

I just spent another 15 minutes beating on it rather severely with a 1 inch dowel between the bold and my hammer, after soaking it with WD40. No change at all. This is intensely frustrating. I had to rebolt the shock back up in order to have a drivable vehicle tomorrow. Not sure what to try next.

The bolt does turn with my socket wrench, though quite stiffly and with a good amount of resistance. The shock is not putting any pressure laterally on the bolt as I can pull it completely free of the top connection point.

Not to freak you out... but I had to cut my shock off becuase the bolt would not budge. It's a pain but if you have a cutting wheel tool it's a sure way to remove the shock.
03/20/2012, 11:02 PM
etlsport

I always put the nut back on, flush with the end of the bolt and use a mini (4lb) sledge. Haven't met a bolt I couldnt conquer yet.
03/21/2012, 05:39 AM
Osteomata

Ldub, Can I get some clarification on this here?
I have jacked up the car such that I had plenty of space to work, but did not actually raise the tire completely off the ground. In this position, I was able to remove the top shock nut and the lower shock nut. Since I have the wheel extended with the jack, I am able to physically compress the old shock enough such that I can actually remove the verticle pin from the upper frame hole. Doesn't this suggest that I have no pressure or torque on the lower bolt, and thus would not need to seperately jack up the lower control arm? Am I misunderstanding the forces and connection points?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ldub

What he say...:_wrench:

There should be a jackstand under the frame,(EVERY time a tire leaves the ground) then use whatever jacking device you're using, to jack up the lower control arm to remove any tension from the shock mount. Just a little at a time, until the pressure of the torsion bar is relieved from the shock mount.

A pickle fork can also come in real handy...:yesgray:
03/21/2012, 05:58 AM
Ldub

Quote:

Originally Posted by Osteomata

Am I misunderstanding the forces and connection points?

Nope...sounds like I was misunderstanding the problem...:_thinking

The pickle fork wouldn't be of much help on the front shock, but is real handy for prying the lower mount off the lug on the rears.

FWIW, I find it easier to get er' up on jack stand(s), & remove the wheel/tire, so I've got more room to work, or swing a hammer...:smack:

Like Eric said, spin the nut on the end of the bolt to protect the threads...maybe a pin punch, or a drift punch, centered on the bolt & then :smack:...:_confused

It's really hard to help from this distance...:luck:

Oh, BTW, thanks for posting this...last night I had bizarre dreams about changing shocks on my truck...:eekgray:
03/21/2012, 06:12 AM
Lizardmen3477

Dam I am changing my shocks soon hope this doesnt happen for me as well ! Sorry for your luck though. ;)
03/21/2012, 11:48 AM
Daly

sears

The problem you are having is why I went to Sears and paid the $20/per shock. It took them almost 1.5 hours to get the old oems off. One they cut off with a torch. Put the new ones on in 15 minutes.
03/21/2012, 12:01 PM
tom4bren

Lesson learned:

If/when you install new shocks, apply anti-sieze to the bolt shoulders during assembly.

We reamed one of the bushings out of a differential bracket for this very same reason. The bolt will corrode and bond to the shock over time.
12/16/2012, 11:18 AM
Ruflyf

Attempted this same project and ran into the same issues. Mine seem to be seized as well. Just like already mentioned the bolt turns, the top is loos and non binding, however the bolt just doesnt want to back out. Didnt have any more time to dedicate to the project today so bolted it back together and sprayed both sides real good.

One problem I noticed with protecting the threads and just hitting the end of the bolt is the bracket on the backside by the bolt head will start to bend. Afterall it is pretty thin metal for a mounting bracket.

Going to try a gear puller, or maybe vice grip the two brackets together so that when hitting the bolt it'll be more of a stiff assembly rather than the rear bracket taking all of the force.
12/16/2012, 11:24 AM
Ldub

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ruflyf

Attempted this same project and ran into the same issues. Mine seem to be seized as well.

Hey Ruf

Good ta see ya still kick'n around...:thumbup:

:luck: with the :_wrench:/shock project!
12/18/2012, 06:19 AM
Ruflyf

Hey Ldub. I see alot of new names. How has evrything been going?
12/18/2012, 06:30 AM
Ldub

It's all good...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ruflyf

Hey Ldub. I see alot of new names. How has evrything been going?

A lot like the elevator business...it has it's up's & down's...:yesgray:

But overall, life been good 2 me so far...:smilewink

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...highlight=4-20

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...light=yin+yang

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...7&highlight=26

Simple pleasures are the best, thanks for asking.

How bout You? (I mean, besides the shock removal thing :upsetgray )