i have the oportunity to buy this lift kit for 100 bux :bgwb: . just wanted to know if anybody here knew what lift this was and if there appears to be anything thats missing ?
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m...307_162909.jpg
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i have the oportunity to buy this lift kit for 100 bux :bgwb: . just wanted to know if anybody here knew what lift this was and if there appears to be anything thats missing ?
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m...307_162909.jpg
That would be a Calmini lift kit, and you can find more info HERE .
Oh, and yes there seems to be some bits & pieces missing.
Looks like Cal-Mini to me...:_thinking
Jo?...what say you?
It does look like Cal-Mini.
It's missing the replacement crossmember but that's really not needed anyway.
The bracket next to the springs looks like the panhard rod drop they included with their kit.
Not sure what that thing is next to the shock boots or the small piece between the shocks. It may be part of the panhard rod drop bracket.
Yup ..Calmini.
Nothing missing that you need....
...and some stuff you dont!
I inherited a Calmini kit when I first got my VX...
...and they are WAY expensive for what they are..RETAIL.
However...For $100..THATS A STEAL.....
....and the shocks are GREAT IMO.
Just check the springs are equal...
..... they have been known to settle at different rates.
And of course check the shocks are good.
If ya get it, and want a hand fitting...
...take a cruise to San Diego...I'll help you.
If..on the other hands you decide not to purchase..
...I would happily do so..so please let me know!
jo
Actually Tom......
The crossmember is the Drilled square section...Quote:
Originally Posted by tom4bren
... between the boots and shocks in the pic.
Its just upside down.. :p...and youre right...its really not needed.
jo
The blue bar next to the boots is a painted piece of Uni-strut.
Very common in Electrical and plumbing installations, used with clamps to support pipes and conduit. I have NEVER seen a need to use it in an auto, EVER!
Makes me wonder? :_thinking:freek:
With all due respect Bulldoggie....
...yer wrong.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bulldoggie
That is the calmini replacement cross member.
When flipped over, the bolt flanges are obvious...
...and the construction/fabrication more clear.
Trust me...I have one..its done many trails.....it aint Uni-Strut!
Its not required..but it is a solid/strong part of the kit.
jo
http://store.eberliron.com/products/...channel/p4100t
It may be modified to be a crossmember but I know unistrut when i see it
As BURGER KING would say....
HAVE IT YOUR WAY
Come to Moab..check mine out....
...beers on me if I'm wrong :_beer:
jo
just sent the paypal payment :)
Like I said, it could have been modified into a crossmember, but it started life as a piece of unistrut.Quote:
Originally Posted by JoFotoz
Unistrut is extremely strong. it's even used to hang heavy pumps and motors.
Here's a better link to show more applications;
http://www.unistrut.us/
Long way to go, gas-wise, just to earn a free beer :yeso:
Fair enough...we'll have to agree to disagree :p
I've used Unistrut for many applications....including marine and Industrial.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bulldoggie
I know it well..
...but...the real point being...its not required anyway!
There is no need to swap it out... the OEM crossmember is good.
jo
Good call...
...its a good deal if shocks are good and coils are equal.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jpuga87
Now ya just need a VX to put it on!
GLTY
jo
Is that an early Kit or ????? The VehiCROSS kit on Calmini's page looks different than your pic as far as the crossmember goes and no brackets with mounting holes on each end. The Unistrut piece in the pic is for what then?
http://www.pureisuzu.com/99-01_3_lift.htm
I'm not seein it. Mine looks totally dif'rent.Quote:
Originally Posted by JoFotoz
Now dats what mine looks like.Quote:
Originally Posted by lasturbo
Not needed anyway so - irrelevent.
BTW, Kilby must get the crossmember from Cal-Mini for their skid plate application 'cause it's same-o ('cept they drilled & tapped a few holes).
MMMm...:confused:....mine is different.
Mine is 100% the same as the OP picture on this thread.
Calmini must of changed the design recently I guess.
What age is your kit Tom?
jo
IDK - installed by PO.
BTW, it was blue till I went all rattle can happy wit de John Deere yellow stuff.
Well...in that case I'm all :confused:
I'd have to guess that mine is older, and you have a newer, redesigned c/member...
Mine was purchased by PO too....and is back to at least 2003/4 AFAIK.
I did get a replacement about 2 1/2 years ago after dropping the c/member right on top of a rock :eek:...
...and they sent the same "Unistrut" looking piece.
But hey....back to the bottom line..
...it aint required anyway !
Jo
Bottom Line Up Front (BLUF): It ain't required anyway
but the more important info is: Jo is special.
:eek:....
...not me...maybe my c/member!Quote:
Originally Posted by tom4bren
:clap:
Jo
Spoken like a true ORW!
-V
Lol...pricelessQuote:
Originally Posted by Vendetta
Why is it not needed? It looks like it provides additional support when adding more weight with larger tires and some front diff protection. Just curious. :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by tom4bren
Not needed because the front pumpkin doesn't get shifted down with the lift kit. The OEM crossmember works just fine. Either one serves the same function, fits the same, and are equally strong.
You said not needed, and it may not have a purpose for the lift, but did help ya out on that rock. Soooo maybe it does serve a purpose after all ;).Quote:
Originally Posted by JoFotoz
As Tom says Coastie...
Quote:
Originally Posted by CoastieCosta567
Its not that a cross member isnt needed.
Its just that the original is equally good/strong and would have served the same purpose...
....and taken the same kind of hit.
jo
I hope its not required for bigger tires ... My kilby crossmember has been off all winter.:eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by lasturbo
how does the front get lifted cause i dont see any hardware to lift the front
Douche every single nut & bolt that's gonna get twisted with PB blaster the day before & the day of, the lift, crank up the torsion bars (about 4 rotations on the nut per 1" of lift, same both sides) & flip the upper ball joints, get an alignment...DONEQuote:
Originally Posted by Jpuga87
Use the search...:smilewink
Look for "little beast becomes big beast"
Take a road trip to San Diego...
...I'll show/help you.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jpuga87
The only tools you'll need is a case of Newcastle Brown, or a bottle of Mount Gay Rum.
Its that easy!
If ya dont fancy a short road trip..PM me...I'll give you my number...
...then I can talk you through it.
And Dub is right.....PB blaster or whatever on the T/bar bolts NOW...
...index the bolt heads...crank equally...then an ALIGNMENT.
As for the b/j flip...I'm not convinced its vital.
jo
You are correct Sir.Quote:
Originally Posted by JoFotoz
Here's a tip for those lifting, crank the torsion bars and drive the VX around a bit. Next look at the front tires and if you see negative camber (tires like /---\), its time to do the BJ flip. If the tires are straight (l---l), go get an alignment & you're done :thumbup:.
The BJ flip causes positive camber (\---/) and is only useful in counteracting negative camber. In my case, the BJ flip caused too much positive camber on my tires so I put the BJs back in the normal position. This modification should be done on a case by case basis.
I always thought it was for the extra down travel/flex...:_thinkingQuote:
Originally Posted by VXorado
That's true you get a little more down travel with the BJ flip so I shouldn't say it's only useful for camber adjustment.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ldub
This is from the PlanetZU article:
"The purpose of this modification is two fold: Increase suspension down-travel, and improve the alignment after lifting. When the torsion bars are cranked, some amount of negative camber is induced into the steering geometry. This is just due to the design of the IFS system. Under ideal circumstances there should be a slightly negative camber. Too much negative camber will cause uneven tire wear, and will also decrease the traction, mostly during cornering due to the tire having a poor contact patch. By flipping the ball joint, or flipping it and using a spacer, the camber is moved back toward the norm, which is much closer to 0. Depending on your specific setup, it may go back to perfect alignment, or not, but you should have the truck aligned after front end suspension changes anyway."
I guess we're both right. :bwgy:
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoFotoz
Ahhhh, forgot about that...:o
Would a BJ flip be better so you don't have to crank the torsions as much, thus reducing the stiffness in the IFS front end?? My experience in my Toyota truck 4x4 days with IFS is the more you crank the torsions, reindexing etc. the stiffer the ride and sometimes to a point the shocks barely do any work. Also, with a BJ flip, you have to cut the snubbers or replace with low pro ones to gain the down travel?Quote:
Originally Posted by VXorado
Same thing with Isuzu, I installed the body lift so I could lower the suspension becuase it got really stiff at 4" IFS lift.Quote:
Originally Posted by lasturbo
The BJ flip won't cause lift because you flip the top BJ and the lift comes from the lower A-arm. Addtionally, you don't need the low profile bump stops since the BJ flip mounts the spindle a 1/4" (?) lower. Low profile bump stops will give you another 1/4-1/2" down travel.