diff drop/ball joint flip

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03/03/2011, 10:33 AM
raver_boi_88

diff drop/ball joint flip

okay...

I have been doing some research and decided this needed a new thread. Does anyone have any info on ball joint flips/diff drops? I have searched and searched but I cant find anything on it other than people saying they have or havent done it. Is there a tech write up or some pictures somewhere i can reference from? The reason I am interested in both of these is because I have 3.5 iches of lift and I keep blowing cv boots. To the point where I have removed the entire front axle completely because it has severely angered me lol. Neways if anyone has any info please help me. Two wheel drive really sucks...:confused::confused:
03/03/2011, 10:43 AM
vt_maverick

You need a certain type of bracket to do the diff drop. Member tom4bren knows a "welder guy" who can fabricate it for you, but I can't recall ever seeing pics. I'd send him a PM and see what he can do to help.

Don't know much about the ball joint flip, sorry.
03/03/2011, 11:10 AM
Etfren

I too found it very hard to find info on the ball joint flip other than a lot of people discussing the pros/cons and who has it or not. Finally found the writeup for it over on Planetisuzoo.

http://www.planetisuzoo.com/articles...p/Spacer_Howto

As for the diff drop, those are usually custom fabbed so you will have to ask someone who has done it. This is one of the few threads I found with pictures though.

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...f+drop&page=34

Not the usual way to do it, but here is how one member did his. Near the bottom of the page, post 510.
03/03/2011, 11:30 AM
RamAirZ

You could fab your own brackets, buy some from Joe Darlington on Planetisuzoo, get with Tom4bren on here for some brackets. You have to remove your front axle assembly and if your going to do the drop the "normal" way you'll need to remove the entire CV shaft including the green cup from the axle housing to get the diff brackets off. Then you'll do this:

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3.../cozu06001.jpg

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...stuff/0011.jpg

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...f/IMG_0198.jpg

http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewto...ight=diff+drop

Or you could source some brackets from a junkyard and mod those before you pull your axle
03/03/2011, 11:48 AM
vt_maverick

Quote:

Originally Posted by raver_boi_88

... To the point where I have removed the entire front axle completely because it has severely angered me lol..

Quote:

Originally Posted by RamAirZ

... Or you could source some brackets from a junkyard and mod those before you pull your axle

Sounds like it's way too late for that. :laughy:
03/03/2011, 11:50 AM
RamAirZ

hahaha good point, not sure how I missed that lol.
03/03/2011, 01:42 PM
raver_boi_88

thank you all so much for your info. I really appreciate it. I am a fairly decent welder but I will head over to the other website and see what he wants for a set.
Thanks again
Phillip
03/03/2011, 02:01 PM
Ebenezr

This is how I did mine. I agree the method used above is better. Mine was simple to do and is holding up. I got something like 1.25 inch drop and it made a tremendous difference in the angle of the half shaft exiting the inner green cup.
Here is how I cut it.

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/0451.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/0461.JPG

and here is how I welded it transposing the bushings upward.
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/0481.JPG

At least I think its holding up??;Db; Almost afraid to look.... Removing the Differential is NOT fun but rewarding once you do it. I dropped the steering linkage by removing the 4 bolts from the passenger side bracket and then a pitman arm puller on the steering gear. By removing those 2 components the entire linkage fell out of the way.
03/03/2011, 02:19 PM
Triathlete

Ball joint flip will do nothing for your CV boot problem however it will make alignments easier. I wrote a how-to for the ball joint flip many moons ago but can't seem to find it any longer.
03/03/2011, 02:40 PM
tom4bren

I can still get Welder Guy to do the mods. The cost will be $250 but it includes the crossmember drop brackets. Jo Darlington charges extra for those so be sure to factor that in. I used to charge $200 but was just losing too much money after shipping.

Now for the bad news. I don't have any differential brackets to modify at the moment. I've only got 3 sets and they are all out right now & I'm waiting for the originals to be sent back. I may have a lead on as set though so I'll let you know.

The installation instructions with pictures can be found here:

http://www.vehicross.info/modules.ph...c&daysprune=-1

You were actually about 1/2 way there whenever you removed your axles.

Here's a pic of the 2nd set that Welder Guy made (cleaner now because he grinds all the welds smooth):

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/sh...08/ppuser/2699

& here's the first set installed on mine:

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/sh...33/ppuser/2699

Another thing to consider is that this summer, RCV Performance will have replacement half shafts available for us that will also fix the CV problems. I should be testing out the first one this month (only the drivers side though (this is why: http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/sh...76/ppuser/2699)). They will be selling the set (both sides) for $1800 which is less than buying OEM from Isuzu.

Tom
03/03/2011, 08:42 PM
Bob Barker

Quote:

Originally Posted by tom4bren

Another thing to consider is that this summer, RCV Performance will have replacement half shafts available for us that will also fix the CV problems. I should be testing out the first one this month (only the drivers side though (this is why: http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/sh...76/ppuser/2699)). They will be selling the set (both sides) for $1800 which is less than buying OEM from Isuzu.

Tom

What will they fix about the cv problems? Take away the need to do a diff drop to save the cv's? That would be pretty awesome!
03/03/2011, 09:21 PM
vt_maverick

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob Barker

What will they fix about the cv problems? Take away the need to do a diff drop to save the cv's? That would be pretty awesome!

$250 for a diff drop vs. $1800 for upgraded half shafts? I'm sure the new shaft design is probably the better answer, but is it 7X better?
03/03/2011, 09:51 PM
Triathlete

Quote:

Originally Posted by vt_maverick

$250 for a diff drop vs. $1800 for upgraded half shafts? I'm sure the new shaft design is probably the better answer, but is it 7X better?

If you wheel hard the extra strength of the shafts and cv is well worth the extra coin...plus the knowledge that if you break it they replace it no questions asked is nice insurance also.
03/03/2011, 10:35 PM
Bob Barker

oooooh free replacement! That's a strong selling point for me!
03/03/2011, 10:44 PM
ZEUS

For future reference

diff drops

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...ight=diff+drop

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...ight=diff+drop

bal joint flip talk

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...all+joint+flip

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...all+joint+flip

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...all+joint+flip

http://www.vehicross.info/modules.ph...ght=ball+joint

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...all+joint+flip
03/04/2011, 06:43 AM
raver_boi_88

so basically for the diff drop it looks like I would cut out the bolt holes, slide the whole assembly down about two inches, and then weld it back in with some filler plate? What did you guys use for filler on the bracket? or I can get a second set of brackets from the junk yard and weld the bolt holes in from that to the plate?
03/04/2011, 08:34 AM
tom4bren

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ebenezr

This is how I did mine.

Eb,

Were you able to determine if your setup rotated the differential at all. It looks to me like you did change the angle and I'm concerned that it could change the phase of the U-joints.

Tom
03/04/2011, 08:37 AM
tom4bren

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob Barker

What will they fix about the cv problems? Take away the need to do a diff drop to save the cv's? That would be pretty awesome!

Bob,

RCV Performance has been making replacement axles for Toy-toters for years & their products are considered by most to be bullet proof.

Basically they completely re-engineer the entire half shaft to utilize a different CV set up. I haven't been able to figure out yet what is different about their CV design but hope to find out soon (when mine is delivered).

Tom
03/04/2011, 08:44 AM
RamAirZ

Just get some spare steel and weld in. You COULD get a spare set to weld in but I think it'd be easier to just get some steel.
03/04/2011, 09:34 AM
raver_boi_88

ic ic, I think I can tackle this on my own without having to buy a set. Now I just have to install a 220v plug in my garage. I just moved and my new garage is without one... lol
03/04/2011, 09:57 AM
RamAirZ

get on it!
03/04/2011, 01:07 PM
tom4bren

Quote:

Originally Posted by raver_boi_88

ic ic, I think I can tackle this on my own without having to buy a set. Now I just have to install a 220v plug in my garage. I just moved and my new garage is without one... lol

You'll also have to make some brackets to drop your crossmember or modify it to clear the pumpkin. You can run without the crossmember for a while till you figure out what is going to work for you.

You'll also have to notch a little bit of the curve on the passenger side towards the front to clear one of the bolts.

You'll have to remove your steering center link to drop the differential. The ball joints can be a real beeeotch to break free. Start working on them days or weeks in advance to make sure that they don't end up stopping the process when you're already committed to getting it done in a weekend. Do NOT use a ball joint fork - go get a pitman arm puller & a BFH.

As I remember any more of those little tidbits, I'll pass them along.
03/05/2011, 07:04 AM
raver_boi_88

Quote:

Originally Posted by tom4bren

You'll have to remove your steering center link to drop the differential.

My differential is already out... I removed the whole thing about a month ago, prop shaft cv's, diff, brackets, everything.... I was very frustrated...

Quote:

Originally Posted by tom4bren

Do NOT use a ball joint fork - go get a pitman arm puller & a BFH.

As I remember any more of those little tidbits, I'll pass them along.

This is also good to know I was just gonna us a ball joint fork on my air hammer but now I guess its back to the old tried and true method of using a sledge...
03/05/2011, 07:45 PM
LittleBeast

Quote:

Originally Posted by raver_boi_88

My differential is already out... I removed the whole thing about a month ago, prop shaft cv's, diff, brackets, everything.... I was very frustrated...

This is also good to know I was just gonna us a ball joint fork on my air hammer but now I guess its back to the old tried and true method of using a sledge...

I have done this many times, spend the cash to get the nicest pitman arm puller available, it is worth it. You still even with this might have to use the hammer :-)
03/07/2011, 06:25 AM
tom4bren

& when you put it back together, add some anti-sieze so it'll be easier next time.
06/19/2013, 08:34 AM
dsallade01

Tom, I was just wondering if welder guy can still do the diff drop brackets?
06/19/2013, 08:55 AM
tom4bren

Quote:

Originally Posted by dsallade01

Tom, I was just wondering if welder guy can still do the diff drop brackets?

Yah but you're better off with Joe Darlington. I'm sure he has a quicker turn around time. If he needs a set to modify, I've got em sitting in my garage.

Lemme know after you talk to Darlington.
06/19/2013, 09:36 AM
Joe Darlington

I could knock out a set in the next few days, if interested you can PM me on this board, email me at darlington-offroad@nc.rr.com or call 208-590-0104