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VXorado found some "custom" switches and it sounded like you could have them print just about anything you wanted on them. They do not match our factory switches, but might be an option.
You can see them in his build thread on page 6 about half way down:
http://www.vehicross.info/showthread...orado+switches
Thanks for the link! I’ll look into it :)
So, I lost the “key” to my lock lug nut. Damn it. After spending several days looking for it, nothing. I called a few tire shops, even a couple of dealerships, and they all said the same thing. They were going to have to “break it off”, which would destroy the stud (no big deal there as they are easy to change), but they also said there was a better than even change of destroying the rim in the process. I looked for one of those counter thread bolt extractors and couldn’t find one the right size. After a week of scratching my head over this, I finally found an option that had good reviews online. Hammer a slightly to small socket on to the smooth lock lug and then twist off. All I did was break a socket, dang it.
I did finally get them off, and replaced with matching lug nuts from another isuzu. I ended up welding a nut on the end of the lock lug and they came right off. Took about 10 minutes per wheel. Now I no longer have any locking lug nuts, but I can at least take the wheel off if get a flat tire or need to work on something.
Glad you got it taken care of, but I have had this problem before (lost my lock nut key) and my local tire shop had a way of getting the lock nut off without destroying the rim or the stud. They had a bit that, basically, clamped down on the lock lug and just backed it off. It did destroy the lock nut, but that's an easy replacement.
I have a set of stock chrome rims and bought a set of black lug nuts and lug keys from McGard ( https://shop.mcgard.com/products/aut...olts/cone-seat ). The black looks pretty schnazzy against the chrome rims. I still have a set of lug nuts in the package so I can find the exact model number that fits our VX's if you would like.
Would be appreciated :)
Didn't see this earlier, but the McGard site has an application finder. Typed our info in and found this: http://www.mcgard.com/product-search...le_category=24
There are a few styles to choose from, but the ones that I bought were part no. 64015 (black bulge cone seat style lug nut set). For the wheel locks I got part no. 24026 (black cone seat wheel lock set with key). I have had these lug nuts and wheel locks on for I can't remember how long (8-years?) and I have been out to Moab with them for at least 6-years so I know they work.
Whichever way you go, if you are using stock rims, you will need cone seat lug nuts/ wheel locks with M12 x 1.5 thread size.
Enjoy!
I have been transitioning to noght shift over the last week or so. On Monday I am on nights full time, but only for two weeks then back to day shift. What a PITA.
Anywho, thanks for all the info on the lug nuts! For now I am not running any locking lug, but it is something I will need to buy.
What I did get done was change out both of my blown rear speakers. Nothing fancy, just some 40W speakers from Walmart. This is fine as my little Chinese head unit maxes out at only 25 watts anyway. The real kicker though? The previous owner cut about 3 inches out of the bottom of the metal plate the speaker mounts in on the drivers side. No idea why. There was also a lot of plastic cone shaped things that were obviously cut up by hand just laying behind the panel, and two dried out walnuts. Weird.
I hope the wal-trash speakers last more than 5 years. It's not a function of RMS vs the head unit. It's a function of build materials and a resistance to decay/dry-rot over time. That's why those clarion OEM speakers are crap. Paper cones and foam surrounds will rapidly deteriorate. That's why I went with the Pioneer's.
Completely agree. Then again I don’t know this VX has 5 years of life left. I am trying to keep the mechanical part good, no skimping there, so the budget needs shaved elsewhere.
I did, finally, get my switch bezel installed in the lower dash and double USB ports. I put one at each far end and tapped them from the cigarette lighter plug. The only I use it for is to power my satellite radio receiver, only 1.1 amps, the lighter has its own 15 amp fuse so I should be good. I wanted two sets, one on each side, to make it easier for the driver and passenger to access them. I still need to get a switch for my light bar and other items.
More updates!
I finally got around to doing the shift shaft seal. What a PITA! Took 2 days and a little blood, but I got it done. I also cleaned out the shift mode controller as it had transmission fluid leaking into it. Shifts are now smooth as butter! It has never driven so well.
The old seal wasn’t even a seal. It was a large glob of gasket maker. Spent a whole day trying to remove a seal that wasn’t there to begin with. I even purchased the seal remover tool and everything. So far no leaks! I hope it stays that way. IF this holds up I can go to Moab for 2019, the 20th anniversary of my VX!
Thought I had a picture of it (can't find it now), but if I remember correctly the mode controller has an orange rubber gasket/ o-ring (for lack of a better term) that seals the two halves together. Sounds like someone split your mode controller apart already and used gasket maker to replace the original rubber gasket. If you were removing orange globs of gasket maker, maybe it was the old gasket that had been eaten away by the transmission fluid leaking on it.
Either way, glad that you got it fixed that the VX is shifting well.
Finally got around changing my Diff fluid, front and rear. Honestly the easiest thing the VX has let me do to her. I used Mobile 1 that already the limited slip additive in it. Not bad, around $90 for 4 bottles. I put just over 3 1/2 bottles in, got just under 3 bottles of old fluid out of the VX. I was surprised when I open the fill plug for the diff and nothing came out. I stuck my punky in the hole and never did find out how the fluid was. After removing the drain plug for the front diff, I got a nice steady stream of fluid, but it didn't last long. I am not sure how low it was, but it was definitely low. Fluid from both differentials looked like thin brown gravy. I know this should have been one of the first things I did with the VX, but it's done now. One more item checked off the list.
Installed a new Throttle Position Sensor, my second new one.
Going through my work log I changed it out initially on 14 Oct 2017. That one was one I pulled from a Trooper at Pull-A-Part.
My next one was a new part I installed on 15 June 2018. I purchased that one from Advanced Auto Parts. (I think that is where I got it, but I do remember I got it locally).
Yesterday, on 09 November 2018 I installed my second new one. This one I got from from Rock Auto dot com and it seems to have good reviews on the site, if that is worth anything. The body is a bit different than the one I got from Advanced Auto Parts (logo on one side and seems to be a bit thicker plastic), but it seems to be working great so far.
Counting the TPS that came with the VX I am now on my 4th TPS since I purchased it. Right around 17 months and 4 Throttle Position Sensors. I am really hoping this one holds up.
Installed yet another TPS after the engine went all kinds of wonkey on me, again. That didn’t fix it so now I have a spare TPS. The down side is my engine is running rough as all get out and I got p0300 code, random multiple misfires. Ran seafoam through the motor. Didn’t fix it. Though about the coil packs so I cleaned each and reinstalled them. No change. Someone on the FB page suggested lower intake gasket. It does seem likely at this point as the idea of multiple coil packs going bad at the same time just seems unlikely. Damnit. I did the damn intake gasket 3 times already! Arrrrrrg!
Ok rant over. I will try to get it next weekend. In the meantime I will be using the wife’s car. Damn it ...
Update! Got the lower intake replaced. Driver side rear cylinder location had a break in it. Re-assembled and ... no change. Based on a suggestion from the FB page I unplugged my MAF. Idled high, as expected, but smooth! After a few minutes it came back down it's normal idle. I cleaned the MAF with carb cleaner, and that worked for about 10 minutes. Then it went back to running wonky and weird misfires. I unplugged the MAF again and it sorted itself out. I am going to go get some MAF cleaner in the morning, and if that doesn't work, I will be dropping a bit over $100 on a MAF. I really hop I can just clean the damn thing.
Got the new MAF installed. It is great again! So happy to have my baby running again. It actually died following a fill up, literally at the pump when I tried to leave. The odometer showed 13.1 miles from there to my driveway. It sucked down a 1/4 tank on that drive. Hopefully the new one lasts longer than the last new one, which was installed on 23 September of 2017. So roughly 14 months.
Seems like every time I get it running great and I think I can start on other projects for the VX something else breaks. I planned on being a lot farther along with this build by now.
Well, the VX just wouldn’t let me finish out the year without an issue. Got the high idle back, yet again, and this time it was the TPS.
Happy New Year! Smh...
Just to clear up what could be confusing after looking through my build log.
On 09 November 2018 I replaced my TPS with a second new one. This did NOT fix my issue so I kept my "first new purchase" TPS in a box.
On 31 December 2018 I replaced my TPS again. I put my "first new purchase" TPS back in the VX. My "second new TPS" went bad after less than two months. The TPS I put back into the VX was originally purchased and installed on 15 JUNE 2018.
I have done so much work, and repeated so much work on this VX, it is getting hard to keep it all sorted, which is really the purpose of this thread. For my own sanity really.
Looking at my build/repair log, it would appear that July of 2018 was the only month nothing went wrong with the VX. Hooray! Sort of. I really want to do longer trips with it, but I just can't seem to make it reliable enough. I really don't trust that it won't break at the worst possible time, when I am the most remote, making recovering it that much harder. I really don't trust this VX, not yet anyway.
Still not sure what to do about the repeated failures of MAF and TPS sensors. Pull the entire wiring harness and rebuild/replace it? That may help, it may not. Probably won't hurt it any, but I really am getting tired of doing extra work on this thing for no reason. Perhaps when the weather warms up I can take a few days off work and start pulling wiring harnesses one at a time and check them out for cracks, damage, bad connectors, that sort of thing. Tedious work to say the least.
Got a relay and switch installed for off-road lights. I was going to use an 21” LED bar I had from my previous Tacoma, but the bar is too small. Guess I’m getting 6 of 8 inch round lights at some point.
On the way home today, high idle issue returned. By the time I got home it had settled back down. I think it may be an issue with the throttle cable. At the last stop sign before my driveway, the engine was still pulling hard, but I put my foot under the gas peddle and lifted it. When I got to my driveway the high idle was gone. Yay! I love mysteries! Damn it ...
Removed
Painted my cladding today. The VX looks sooooo much better.
Getting started:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ea33h8ofa7...20AM.jpg?raw=1
Making Progress:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/fg9sdaz4qb...20PM.jpg?raw=1
All done!
https://www.dropbox.com/s/z7x14whjbv...20PM.jpg?raw=1
https://www.dropbox.com/s/fqc414yzkr...20PM.jpg?raw=1
https://www.dropbox.com/s/3pagpp59vf...20PM.jpg?raw=1
https://www.dropbox.com/s/bpixfvo2hj...20PM.jpg?raw=1
I used Krylon Fusion - Black Satin paint. Only $4 / can, and only used three cans. :)
Nice work! Looks nice. Are you going to "murder out" the rest of it? I think it can definitely use some black wheels...when your wallet recovers from the repairs.
Does the Fusion have any UV inhibitor? If not, you may want to add a clear coat that does. The UV in GA will certainly limit the amount of time you have before need to do it again. I did my Dragon in Denver and should have done that. It didn't last as long as I would have liked...only about a year.
Looked at the can it doesn’t specifically say anti-UV, but it does say out door use, so ... maybe?Quote:
Originally Posted by Mile High VX
“Murder Out” LOL! I have never heard that term, but I like it! LOL! Actually not a terrible idea though ... hmmmm ...Quote:
Originally Posted by ipd
The paint is honestly in terrible shape. Clear coat is completely gone in large spots. Whoever debadged it really messed it up. The roof is in horrible shape, but still no metal exposed so no rust, yet. I am trying to decide what color to paint the rest of it. The paint is far enough gone that even a rattle can paint job would be an improvement, but I will consider this “Murder Out” idea ;)
"outdoor use" only means "don't use in enclosed spaces, or the vapors will get you high".
If you're going to rattle-can the rest of the exterior, I'd suggest using a few layers of silver/reflective basecoat--so whatever you paint over it will "pop" more. If it were me, I'd rattle can a layer of glow-in-the-dark paint over end color--with a couple layers of clear-coat on top. That way, when the sun sets, the VX will "glow".
I have been looking at a number of options. It had some really terrible faux-carbon fiber vinyl wrap on it when I got it. It had been on way too long and it kind of turned me off of doing it again at first because it was such a PITA to remove. It took several days. However I am now considering going that route. I also looked at Plasti-Dip, but probably wont go that route. I finally got to see a car done with it and the texture is just ... wrong. A real paint job would cost about what the entire VX is worth so that probably wont happen. I am still looking at options, but trying to keep it as budget friendly as possible.
Edit: Of course if I did the “Murder Out” (still like that term), I could just clear coat over flat black primer ... hmmmm
Plasti-dip--if done right--can look great. But it will detail imperfections in the substrate material. I have a friend who did his whole bmw wagon in clear over dark blue paint. Looks great. But it did take quite a bit of experimenting to get it right.
Update on the cladding paint: Success! The paint has held up to below freezing temps, LOTS of rain, bird poop. and even some dipped fuel from the gas station. Granted it's' only been a couple of weeks since I did this, but so far so good. Even the front cladding is holding up. With as many issues as I was having I wasn't expecting this part to go as well as it haas. This gives me more confidence to paint the rest of the VX.
Another update:
So far the paint is exceeding expectations. It even survived a trip through a car wash. The real test will be scratched from brush and the summer heat. I am confident that it will hold up, but of course I will still keep an eye it.
I completed my rear seat delete today by removing the rear seatbelts. They are actually is very good shape. I wonder if I can use them to replace the front ones since they have gotten weak over time? Probably not, but I will look into it.
While I was in there, I discovered that the speaker mount is actually a thin metal bracket that just screws to the inside of the body. This is actually a good thing! I am thinking I will start working on a small speaker box to replace the metal mount to try to improve the sound of the rear speakers. Maybe. It’s not a high priority issue so it may or not happen anytime soon, but something worth keeping an eye for.
I also found around 50 or so walnuts and a large ball of carpet padding behind the interior cladding. After talking to the previous owner, apparently there is a walnut tree across the street where the VX sat while it was waiting for me. I hate squirrels LOL! Not of the wiring was damaged, thankfully, but there was a lot of vacuuming to do. They left some other little “surprises” for me as well.
Over all, a good day. Now that the seatbelts are out, I can start working on building the cargo/storage system for the rear area. I am thinking a drawer style fridge will work better than a typical cooler style. I have most of the supplies I need to frame it out in angle steel. I still need to do some more shopping.
I think the project may be getting back on track. Provided nothing else brakes in the meantime.
I'd mentioned what the rear speakers were mounted on in my write-up, and there's pics on the forum here as well. I thought you'd already known. lol!
I don't think the seat-belt mechanisms front/rear are the same, but I could be wrong. If it's like most other cars though, you can probably fix the fronts being "slack" by "torquing" the spring in them 1-2 more rotations.
I submit that a speaker box in place of the stock rear speaker location isn't really going to net you any advantage, unless you're trying to make them sealed enclosures. Instead, I'd recommend doing what I and others have done, and dremel out the mount to fit bigger speakers. If you want specific details, just ask. I'm happy to help.
You probably did mention it and I just forgot about it. No worries. :)
So I removed the roof basket and cross bars for the past five tanks of fuel to see if it would affect fuel economy. The average mpg went up 0.03. That’s it. It is insignificant enough to be in a margin of error so I will be putting it back on. That was a fun experiment, but with no real changes.
Before just disposing of the rear inner seatbelt brackets that the belts clip to, please let me know. I discovered mine missing from PO
Have you looked at the new Hyundai ironman kona? If not, check it out. It might be the perfect paint scheme for a vehicross. Red and black which matches interior.
I know its been a while since I have posted an update, and well that partly because I haven’t done anything with the VX. My son broke his ankle (no worries he’s fine now) and that cost me just over $10k (His part of the bill after insurance was $25k) and required two surgeries. My wife just had to have a house with a swimming pool, and $5k later all of those issues (i hope) are sorted. Finally, my bathtub shifted in the floor. Turns out I had leak in the drain pipe and it rotted a joist, the sub floor, and the beams on the bottom of the surrounding walls. I could have let the insurance take care of it, but it would have nearly doubled my premiums. $20k later I have a new bathroom (and a structurally sound house), but damn this has been an expensive year.
So the project is on hold for a bit as I pay down the debt I have needed to get into to keep everything else going. I am actually glad I had the VX. Before this I had a 2013 Toyota Tacoma TRD OffRoad (Amazing truck btw). However, if I still had those vehicle payments I may have been sunk. In August two smaller loans will be paid off and I can start to really knock down these other bills and hopefully put my emergency fund (which is $0 at the moment) back in the bank.
You mean the one the bolts just about to the middle of the floor and comes up in the middle of the back seat?Quote:
Originally Posted by Camoman
Up until now the VX has been running great. Better than expected actually. Today the passenger window motor died. Again. This will be my 4th motor since I purchased the VX. Dang it.
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It has been a long time since I updated this page. It is amazing how much time goes by when life gets in the way. It will be a while longer yet before more modification are done to my baby. The Army has decided that I need to go over seas for a year so the project will be put on hold for a while. I will try to keep up with the site in the mean time.