Nuke VX build thread

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Scott Larson

...shroud face in regards to directing air to the fans. The picture of the Griffin radiator shows fans that cover 75% of the rad surface with a stand-off shroud.

---

The math generally works out that ~70% of square radiators can be covered with a round fan, but only ~50-60% can be covered on rectangular radiators. The Griffin picture shows a standard fan/shroud. The Four Wheeler pics are of a "slim line" or low profile fan/shroud. Unfortunately less efficient, but necessary because of the lack of room under the hood. I need to order a vent connector for the upper coolant hose to connect the steam vents from the LS engine and "burp" the system since the hose is higher than the radiator cap. Just a little trapped air just kills the efficiency of the system. Even with all these things the 13 y/o composite/aluminum radiator meant for a aluminum V6 still may not be up the cooling demands of a iron block V8. Only time will tell.

Discussions are fine, but when some says "stick to your guns" - what they are saying is you are wrong. Well, prove it on your end because I have proof on mine. But I'm not above learning from others.

Sam

Good on ya Sam, well said! I do truly believe PK was trying to help though. You have alot of interested people here...:thumbup:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by sleveritt

PK, you really need to rethink your logic. You have two contradicting statements - "But by far the greatest amount of cooling is needed when you are travelling at highway speeds (NOT TRUE AT ALL), uphills (TRUE)etc, when you have the gas pedal to the floor.
At these times the fans do little, or no work at all. The air flow through the entire radiator frontal surface caused by your forward motion is enough to cool the engine (THIS PART IS TRUE)."

---

Why wouldn't you think the engine is doing a lot of work -- especially with a mega-high-profile jacked truck rolling down the road at hwy speeds? That work creates heat -- and needs cooling?

(Obviously air flow isn't hard to get at speed, but that wasn't the point when PK made the comment.)

Cool project, btw. Lots of know-how went into it for sure.

Attaining highway speeds is the greatest amount of work for the engine, by and large, once at that speed maintaining it is much less work. Just works the instant MPG on any newer vehicle for confirmation. Once at highway speeds, most vehicles have adequate passive cooling. Now on the VX, there is not a lot of surface area for that kind of airflow. I've contemplated cutting some air vents on the front fascia, but that would be towards the end of my checklist.

Yeah, the grill on the VX could be a real limiting factor when it comes to air flow through the radiator. You could remove the OEM driving lights and open up those holes, then fab some ducting to route additional air to the rad. Just a thought... It may be tough to retain the original look of the front end.
:_steering

After a couple of wheeling events last year, the overheating continued. I had a radiator shop take a look. They said everything looked fine on the outside, but maybe the radiator was getting clogged over the many years of use/abuse. Ordered a new direct replacement radiator & cap a couple of weeks ago. Here was the thing, even though the old radiator had been drained of coolant and transmission fluid, it was still 4 pounds heavier than the new one. Installed last week. After the burping process for the LS engine, everything appears to have been fixed. Just finished wheeling this past weekend at Superlift ORV in Hot Springs, AR with the Arkansas Crawlers (brother is a member) - never had a problem, even when towing a Jeep Cherokee up a mountain trail. That made me exceptionally happy! Now to concentrate on the road wander...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by sleveritt

That made me exceptionally happy! Now to concentrate on the road wander...

---

Worked wonders for me, but you're a *bit* different, so I dunno if the same thing would work out for you, too.

http://vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=25219

Thanks for the suggestion. That is my backup plan if I can find a worn joint/bushing somewhere. Don't want to cover the problem with a band-aid if I can find the root cause. I also want to upgrade the rear track bars to something beefier/adjustable (perhaps some "flexing" is occurring while on the road?). I did a complete hydraulic flush and did find some "water", maybe 10-15mls in 2 quarts. Any amount could have lent itself to creating an emulsion. Oh well, every correction helps.

And check out the latest wheeling pics from last weekend at Superlift in Hot Springs, AR

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=25341

I dug up your build thread after looking at your wheeling thread. I love your rig! How high to the bottom of your rockers? If I go bigger than 33s I don't want to cut all that metal out you did. I think you have about the same lift as mine. So maybe 35s for me down the road.

25-26" depending on which corner I measure from (with tires aired down to 12psi). Those tires have some seriously stiff sidewalls - oh well, better for not ripping them!

Nuke VX Channel with all the Superlift videos

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCuY...8NbDRlYCkDHFRA

Hey all, I've uploaded more videos! Enjoy!