My ProComps now are 27 these are 35lbs.
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My ProComps now are 27 these are 35lbs.
We know that the 2000/2001 OEM 18x7 rim weighs 28 lbs, but I'd REALLY like to know how much a 1999 OEM 16x7 rim weighs each (even if by bathroom scale)??? Help us "YellowGizmo99"???Quote:
Originally Posted by yellowgizmo99
:_confused
Wow I am glad I checked the offset calc, while I have a couple days before they tell me the casings are in. With that rim I posted I would stick out 70mm compared to stock. Back to looking.
didn't bring the truck with the rims in it today, will check when i get home, the scales battery was dead and no one had told me.
OK finally remembered and they weigh around 20#, this is with scales that are from the 70's, but they weigh me good.
Wow, only 20 lbs each for a 1999 OEM 16x7 stock rim??? That sounds almost too good to be true.Quote:
Originally Posted by yellowgizmo99
Can you please double-check the rim weight by holding it in your hands and standing on your home Bathroom Scale and then subtract your own body weight from the total??? It just seems 20 lbs might be a tad light, so please double-check at home with your Bathroom Scale to be sure. Thanx for your assistance.
:bgwb:
I'll take to work and put on digital scales Monday.
OK on calibrated digital scale with the caps on it weighted in at 20.00#'s.
A big THANK YOU for the verification. I'm totally amazed that the 1999 OEM 16x7 factory rim (with Center Cap installed) only weighs a featherlight 20 lbs. Simply incredible, and it's a full 8 lbs lighter than the 2000/2001 OEM 18x7 factory rim which weighs 28 lbs each!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by yellowgizmo99
:freek:
I would take that extra 8 pounds any day.
JEEZ! Only 20lbs?!
Man, that's a downer. I was thiiiiiiiis close to pulling the trigger on 18" KMC Monsters, which weigh more than TWICE that!
And what's more, I was going to have them wrapped in 285/65 Nitto Terra Grapplers.
Is it worth it??? I have OEM 16s on my '99, and they're in good enough shape, so do I just go with taller tires instead? I really like the look of the Monsters though.
I can probably be talked off the fence in either direction at this point. Have at it.
-V
I personally have a set up near 80lbs. No issues.
Look for the "Post all wheels and tires" thread.
Yup, no issues until you come up on a grid-lock traffic jam on the freeway and try to stop those rolling 80 lbs of unsprung weight. CRUNCH!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by JHarris1385
:rollo2:
Well, I'm due for new brakes all around anyway... mine are really mushy after having sat as long as they did.
Guess I'll just add that to the list. *sigh*
That's a very subjective dealio...my 35" mud grapplers have a shipping weight of 75#, with a wheel weight (centerline spec) of 26#...that's spec for my 20's.Quote:
Originally Posted by Riff Raff
I just "bathroom scaled" my 18's (35x12.5 mud graps & c-lines) & they offer no improvement @ 80 & 22#.
For whatever reason, during the long @$$ roll to SC & back, I didn't smuck into any grind to a sudden halt/gridlocked traffic, & there was PLENTY, what with road closures/detours/acci's/construction etc. I even managed to cut & thrust my way through big city traffic without ending up a statistic...:thumbup:
However, I have a few advantages that the avg member looking to upgrade in size may not have...:naughty:
I'd have to say, the ability to drive 2-3-400 yds ahead of the vehicle helps the most (all the while NOT texting, yapping on a cel phone I don't own yet, or applying yet another layer of makeup), then stainless braid reinforced brake lines are also a factor, the third factor, which I believe to be helpful, is cross drilled rotors & fresh OEM pads...I was usually more concerned about getting rear end'd, than about what was in front of me.
That all having been said, I agree with riff, unless you're willing to make some upgrades in braking performance, & turn off the phon etc...(you know...concentrate on the task at hand...DRIVING) you have a pretty good chance of becoming "just another number"...unfortunately, you'll probably take a VX with you...:(
Yep, as mentioned, I'm good for upgrading the brakes. No issues there. Any suggestions on rotors? I also prefer to stick with OEM pads whenever possible.
As for the phone, eh, 'ow'yoooo doin? Not all a us New Yawkuz tawk on the phone while we drive there, guy.
(Saw a bumper sticker yesterday that read "HANG UP BEFORE YOU KILL SOMEONE!" Love that.)
I'm sorry...:flower:Quote:
Originally Posted by Vendetta
I didn't mean for that to be taken personally by anyone...:mbrasd:
Just painting my experience with a broad brush.
And you'd be right in sooo many instances here, especially on LI. Not cool.
As for me, I'm too busy paying attention to the RPMs, the drivetrain noises, the wig-wagging fuel gauge needle, the check engine light, you know... :bgwo:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Riff Raff
Riff,
Do you think the R1 cross-drilled/slotted "premium" rotors (http://www.r1concepts.com/isuzu-vehi...999-brakes.htm) with some new pads be enough of an upgrade to the brakes to handle the larger wheel & tire load I'm considering, or is there more to it?
Actually, it's tire diameter that has a much more significant effect on braking capability than unsprung weight. Unsprung weight is however significant in regard to bearing and shock absorber life. Here's a little light reading for you:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unsprung_mass
I'm not really a brake guy, but any improvement over the stock OEM brakes would be just that-- "an improvement". I would defer any brake questions to our "Big Tire Club" guys like L-Dub, LittleBeast, JoFotoz, and Tom4Bren. Those folks can attest to the effects of using huge heavy tires more than anyone on this site.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vendetta
My advice would not even venture into troubled waters if you don't have to and try to limit your maximum wheel/tire combination weight to a target of 72 lbs (which is a safe 10 lbs over the '00/'01 VX stock wheel/tire combo). Here are just two(2) examples of the 72 lbs target combo's using both OEM version wheels (16's & 18's):
1999 OEM 16x7 rim (20 lbs) + Yoko - Geolandar M/T+ in 285/75R16 (32.9" O.D./51.6 lbs) = 71.6 lbs
'00/'01 OEM 18x7 rim (28 lbs) + Grabber AT2 in 275/65R18-116S (32.1" O.D./42.6 lbs) = 70.6 lbs
:bgwb:
Thank you Riff, I'l have a look-see at those combos.
Big Tire guys, any thoughts on those rotors if I _do_ end up going with the 285/65 on the KMC 18s?
Cheers,
-V
IMHO, you only need to replace the rotors if yours are bad. The SS brake lines however are a very good idea. Disabling the ABS is also probably a very good idea.
My personal experience is that driving with larger tires requires a wholistic re-learning of your driving style. You don't corner as sharp; you don't stop as fast; you don't start up as fast; you gas up more often; depending on tread design, you'll probably experience more 'wander'; depending on offset, you will probably NEVER drive in the rain with your windows open (even a little). Is it worth it ... you betcha!!! The feel of a VX sitting on big meat just can't be beat.
The "WTF" looks on others' faces and all the questions only increase when you get the VX up in the air.Quote:
Originally Posted by tom4bren
Of course around here in the south, all I hear is "you ever get that thang in the mud?" :p
These don't look too bad...http://cgi.ebay.com/2-FRONT-2-REAR-P...item415b8c189eQuote:
Originally Posted by Vendetta
These look good too...http://cgi.ebay.com/PREMIUM-SERIES-P...item5ae177a0f8
Though I have no personal experience with those particular vendors. I purchased mine from Magnum on ebay, though I can't currently find them there.
IMO, slotted is unnecessary, if slotting really improved stopping dist, you'd see them on race cars.
X a factor of 2...:yes:Quote:
Originally Posted by tom4bren
Thanks Ldub! As always, the tips are appreciated. That second link you pulled from Ebay are from R1, which are the same as I was looking at direct from their site. So we're converging on the same products, which tells me they're not a bad way to go.
Believe it or not though, it's cheaper to get them directly from the site than through ebay - just in case anyone else is thinking of going this route.
Cheers,
-V
http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/5397/vsig.png
Ldub, from everything I've read slotting just improves initial bite of the brakes and probably really only helps when the brakes are cool. It also wears out pads faster so for race cars who keep their brakes and tires up to race temp all the time its probably not necessary and not worth the extra wear when you don't want to have to change brakes mid-race.
I'm planning on putting 35's on my truck and since my brakes are bad I've been doing some research to figure out what brakes I want. Think I've decided on drilled R1 rotors up front, regular R1 rotors out back and OEM pads all around with Stainless steel lines from Apex. I've heard good things about the EBC pads though so thats the only thing I haven't settled on is if they are worth it over the OEM's.
Here are my thoughts on that aspect of the subject...for whatever they're worth...:_confusedQuote:
Originally Posted by Riff Raff
Around these here parts, EVERYONE, with the exception of a chosen few, re-learns their braking capabilities in a big hurry after the first snowfall...:yesgray:
The chosen few are quickly weeded out of the general driving populace, or are later seen driving rentals/loaners while the results of their inability to adapt are being repaired. (college students from southern states are most susceptible)
IMO, within a few hrs/days of driving on bigger/heavier tire/wheel combinations, you instinctively know that you need to slow it down a little, leave a bigger buffer zone between you & whatever you might be following, & in general, be a bit more aware of what's going on around & in front of you.
I personally have successfully made the transition from summer braking to winter braking almost 30 times, & feel the difference between snow/ice, vs larger/heavier doughnuts, to be a far steeper learning curve...:_snowplow
Just my opine, take it FWIW.
OK, I'll buy the initial bite theory, but after your brakes are warmed up, you still have the increased pad wear as a bonus...:smilewinkQuote:
Originally Posted by Etfren
Though it may decrease over time as the leading edge becomes dulled...:_confused
With the price of OEM pads being what it is, I think I'll stick with drilled only...:yesgray:
UPDATE!
I finally have my newest set up installed.
I bought 5 of each.
The wheels are Black Rocks Dunes - 17''
http://www.blackrockwheels.com/produ...-5/SteelWheels
The tires are 255/75-17 Treadwrights
https://www.treadwright.com/p-76-255...ard-dog-c.aspx
First off, I really like the steel wheels. They look great and have a nice anti-stick like coating on them.
So far the TWs are good as well, only have a couple hundred miles on them but so far great all around. The road noise humming is low and is something I actually like.
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...ew_Wheels2.jpghttp://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...New_Wheels.jpg
Looks good, like the "black out" look. I have some smoked Klearz front turn signal lenses I can't decide if I like or not on mine, but think they'd go better with your theme now because of your great contrast with the white....:_thinkingQuote:
Originally Posted by JHarris1385
What kind of mileage life do they claim for the TreadWrights?
(yes, I could look it up, but thought you might know off the top of your head :goof:)
Thank you. I need to repaint my corners.
There is a 24K warranty on them but most on pirate or other forums say 50-60K.
@ $108 that is a steal.
I know there are some who don't agree with the retread idea. Personally I don't see an issue.
Let me know if you want to get rid of those, I might be interested :yesy:Quote:
Originally Posted by VX KAT
Will you ever stop cannibalizing perfectly good VX's???Quote:
Originally Posted by JAMAS
You're starting to get a little morbid ... you know that, right???
Ha! I'm only after your complete Tone collection.Quote:
Originally Posted by tom4bren
I was planning on buying TW tires when I had my 17" rims because of the price & good reviews. My only worry was that the core would come from a tire with a 2-ply sidewall. Only an issue for rocks and you bought a spare so you should be good.Quote:
Originally Posted by JHarris1385
I think the new rims/tires look great on your VX!!
Ok sorry to kinda hijack thread but seeing all this talk I think I am gonna move up to 33O.D tires and mine are bout done for. The tires im looking at are gonna be 33.1 i believe and 12inch wide( hate the tall skinny look want some meat with the height) Now i know being these are only 33s but abit wider then most of the 33s running out there. What would be needed to fit them would the 3 inch lift be enough to clear the front fender well, the front is cut i mean the back or will ihave to hammer. I have the new rancho shocks waitin in box and I am pickin out which springs to go with the 919s or the 913,912s. Any advice would be appreicated thanks.
Its going to require a bit of :smack::smack:
+1 :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Triathlete
912s and some cutting will work. 919s will also work but are a little taller and stiffer. Also, you may have CV issues without a diff drop.
As long as I know its do able me and my hammer will make em fit :)