Waaa siiiiiiick. go photoshop a dark green one now ;)
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Waaa siiiiiiick. go photoshop a dark green one now ;)
Darn... should have been darker (I'm not very good at this.)
http://members.cox.net/radamsokc/GreenBlack.jpg
Hmmmm, I'm a BIG fan of blue, too...
http://members.cox.net/radamsokc/BlueBlack.jpg
Now that IS sick... he may be onto something here Marlin... :thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by RickOKC
Ummm, you are talking a few grand for something like that, I could buy a whole nother VX for that kind of money...Quote:
Originally Posted by vt_maverick
You mean you couldn't have bought a whole other VX for the money you've already spent? ;)
That aint rightQuote:
Originally Posted by Marlin
Umm, between the 120K PMS and the gadgets, locker, lift, wheels tires and so on, I probably have close to $10K plus the cost of the truck invested, not including the tranny swap. I could have bought 2 more VXs for that...but they would be just plain old boring VXs:bgwb:Quote:
Originally Posted by vt_maverick
Just finished the ball joint swap, took about 1.8 hours, 30 minutes of which was trying to get the factory bump stops off and trying to find one of the castle nuts. The nut had fallen into the jack. I am not sure what the point of the low profile stops is, they are less than 1/8" difference from the factory. They are a bit bigger as far as contact area though. Oh well, its done now. Why is it every time I do something mechanical on the truck, she demands some type of blood sacrifice? If I was a mechanic for a living, I would have to have the Red Cross on site all the time to supply me fresh blood.
Hopefully tomorrow I can make some progress on the paint. Stand by.
I'm surprised that you say you have an aftermarket fender. With as few of these that they made, I'm shocked the aftermarket would even have one available.
I think your idea of having to back up from it and take pictures to make it look better is a strange concept. Sure it looks better further away, if you back up another half mile or so, it may even look better. Not at all what I want for my truck, but if you're happy, that's really all that matters. The interior of your truck threw me off as well. Are all the wires everywhere just mid-project, or do you like the rat's nest look for the dash? I know you boast that you do the projects others just think about, but maybe they didn't do the project because they thought it through and decided it wouldn't look good. I'm sure there's stuff on my truck that members would find fugly as well, but I think you may be setting a new record. That's just my 2¢.
As I mentioned, the wires were mid project. I am electrician by trade, so my electrical work is typically top notch. As for the backing up, I meant that it would seeing the overall picture vs. the in your face shot.Quote:
Originally Posted by RallyDude
The fender is definitely not OEM. It is much thinner, the passenger side has a thunk, the drivers is more of a tink. I don't know that repainting could make that much of a sound difference.
Do a flat red photoshop if you dont mind. And a Kaiser flat.
Hey J,Quote:
Originally Posted by JHarris1385
Are you talking about a bright red instead of maroon? If so, here it is. As for Kaiser... beyond my skills. :( (I'm sure it doesn't help that my software is 7 years old.) I'd never played around with colorizing before last night and my best attempt at Kaiser was a complete mess. I can say that lavender & gray is not a good color combination!
http://members.cox.net/radamsokc/BrightRedBlack.jpg
That looks good...pretty close as to what I was thinking. I should have defined red but you did pretty well. Thanks!
:crying:
...
.
.
....IT LOOKS HORRIBLE.
...
..just my take.
:_beer:
atb
jo
Quote:
Originally Posted by RickOKC
Waaaaaaaa I'm in looooooove
I agree, I like the new flat finishes they are doing on cars, but I wonder how they wear. Do you wax a flat finish?
Oh, and it's not horrible, he just hasn't backed up enough with the camera!
Marlin, I'm glad you like it. It doesn't really matter how a hard-core trail rig looks anyway.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RallyDude
true that....
after some more thought chris- i can definately see the function in what you did.... just complete the paint job next time before you take pics and you'll get much better reviews i bet ;)
I don't mind criticism, hell, half of what I do gets criticized:)Quote:
Originally Posted by pbkid
Just got back with the RS, the VX is safe for quite a while, I have a new toy to mess with. I am not going crazy though, just CB, Stereo, lift, lighting upgrade...it looks like a tonka toy!!
I just pulled the insert, cleaned out all the gunk under there, lined all that as well, no more rust, then finsihed the insert itself. Also went ahead and did the drivers window bracket with the SBC brackets. DIdn't help the drivers window go up any better:( Actually I think its worse now:( I tried sliding the glass around, might have to try and push it forward in the slots some more.
I had the same experience, the SBC brackets made a huge difference in the passenger side but didn't make as much difference on the driver's side (still have to "help" the window up). It goes up just fine after it gets about 2 inches out of the door, but IMHO that's still not good enough. The guys at the shop I use kind of see my VX as a pet project (they love working on something besides Taurus's and Civics) so they asked if I could leave it overnight next time for them to experiment. Who knows, maybe they'll come up with something to augment the brackets.Quote:
Originally Posted by Marlin
Stay (patiently) posted. ;)
Mine goes up fin until the last 4 or 5 inches. Thats when it binds...boo!Quote:
Originally Posted by vt_maverick
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marlin
Well, this sounds familiar. :oQuote:
Originally Posted by vt_maverick
The previous owner had installed the SBC brackets before I bought the VX. The passenger side works perfectly but the driver's side would still twist forward while being raised. Silicone spray made it work great for about a month, and a second application helped when it needed again later, but was the result was not nearly as good. A few weeks ago I took the window out while replacing the lock assembly.
When I reinstalled the window, the twisting was the worst ever until I slid the SBC bracket as far toward the door hinges as possible. No more twisting, but now I get a little wind noise on the highway. There is also a worrying "thunk" as the window completely closes that makes me think the top of the window is not aligned properly with the upper channel. Seems to be a fine balancing act.
I would have kept trying to find the sweet spot, but there is so much slop throughout the entire regulator assembly that I was left with the impression that it is just plain ol' worn out. (Lots of speculation on my part since this is the first time I ever played with "door guts.") Once I have time to mess around with it again, I intend on comparing it to the passenger side regulator before I actually start shopping for a replacement.
http://www.columbusicesharks.net/ima...ffdaniels2.jpg
Just when I thought you couldn't make your VX any uglier...and then you go and do something like this......AND TOTALLY REDEEM YOURSELF!!! :laughing:
:_beer:
Bart
PS - Sorry man, couldn't help myself.
The guys at my garage want to experiment with this same idea since they shared your observations (mostly that OEM tracks are crap even new out of the box) the last time I had it in the shop. Their idea is to leave the SBC bracket in place, but glue a tire weight or two to the part of the glass closest to the B pillar / door jam to keep the glass from leaning forward. We'll see how it goes.Quote:
Originally Posted by RickOKC
I was at an Autozone today getting some parts and there was a guy with a Jeep that was done complely with Line-X in blue and black on the flares and bumpers, looked good for a jeep, lol, anyway talked to him and he said it ran him 2300, the guy had taken all hinges and stuff off before he did the job and did a great job with the umpers and all.
Well, its been a few months, thought I would update. It has been covered in mud, pressure washed a few times, and I just ran it through the car wash machine. No problems on the painted surfaces. The hood insert however is peeling off. I did not do any prep other than cleaning on the insert. I will pressure wash it off and sand it with 60 grit. I went ahead and put the UV top coat on today as well. Looks shiny and new!!! I will update a few months from now.
Ash,Quote:
Originally Posted by vt_maverick
You may want to re-read this thread for some other ideas for your windows.
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...ow+fixin+party
Just my opinion: If you want to use a DIY bedliner, then OK, but I would not recommend Herculiner. Herc contains little rubber bits that tend to make the surface....not so attractive.
This guy applied Herc to the plastic bed rail caps. You can see what I mean about the rubber bits.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...erculiner4.jpg
I understand, but you are comparing 80 bucks to do my entire truck, to 1000 plus to do my truck in Linex or rhino line. I don't think those products are 10 times better than herculiner.
Plus, the little bits that stick up work great at hiding scratches :)
No, my comment was not about LINE-X at all, it's about DIY bedliner products. I'm just recommending that you choose a product that does not contain the rubber bits. That's it...Quote:
Originally Posted by Marlin
Gotcha, unfortunately, Heculiner has brilliant marketing and is the only roll-on DIY bedliner kit that you can get off the shelf at just about any store that sells auto stuff. Its convenient availability makes it an easy choice. If I get a scratch, its easy to touch up and blend in and I can get it anywhere. I know there are some other really good ones, like monstaliner and a few others, but can't get them at the store:(Quote:
Originally Posted by LINE-X
There are TONS of DIY products that are easily available at stores. Even if you live out in the boonies (no stores), they ALL are available over the web. Duplicolor (Autozone, Walmart), Durabak, U-Pol Raptor, SEM, Monstaliner, Rustoleum (not the spray paint), Hippo, Plasti-Cote, Napa Finish 1, the list is endless. As far as durability goes, I don't think one is much better than the other, they are all very similiar products.Quote:
Originally Posted by Marlin
Yes, Herculiner has lots of advertising. Herculiner is manufactured in South Africa by Duram Paint for Old World Industries who owns Peak brand antifreeze.
The only roll on available on the shelf is herculiner. Duplicolor is alright, I use that on my frame and sliders and whatnot, so when it gets scratched, just spray it on again.Quote:
Originally Posted by LINE-X
I have found that the Herculiner is much thicker, for example, if it dries on something, you can peel it off in one continuous sheet that is fairly thick, the spray on stuff just kind of flakes off, more like paint than a rubber product.
I do understand that many others are available on the web, but for instant gratification purposes and bang for the buck, 1 gallon of herculiner can do all of the cladding on the VX and the hood insert, with more than one coat.
Just for curiosity's sake, What would it cost to do all the cladding and hood insert on the VX with Line-x, in black, with the UV inhibitor?
Bump for response from Line-X dealer.Quote:
Originally Posted by Marlin
I don't have a final price yet. Were trying a few different things regarding adhesion. In addition, we found out there's a lot of 3M double stick tape used on the cladding that will have to be replaced, that will add to the price. I'll sure let you know once we figure it out. Were also waiting on some replacement cladding clips. It's almost impossible to remove the cladding without breaking some of them. It's fairly obvious that Isuzu designed the clips to be easily replaceable.
FWIW, I have had my cladding off, I did break some clips, I never replaced them or the tape, and I have had no problems. No rattling, no crooked hanging...would save some time and money.
How about if someone did all the prep, and just dropped off the pieces ready for you to spray? If it isn't covered by the warranty anyway, shouldn't matter who does the prep. I would be willing to strip and sand my cladding/insert, drop it off and pick it up later. What would that run?
My friend had his 1988 toyota truck sprayed with line-x. I remember the rear bumper cost $175 and the entire truck bed + tailgate (outside) cost $500. He removed and prepped both before bringing them to the Line-x shop.
I talked to the guy about spraying my cladding, he didn't know anything about a VX but said it would be $700-$1000 if i removed and prepped the cladding myself.
Or you can DIY. This guy used a Raptor/U pol kt that sprays on. Its also tintable for different colors.
http://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.p...1&d=1229479990
If you were to just bring in the cladding, no prep (we want to prep the plastic), the price with LINE-X with black Xtra (prevents fading and loss of gloss, fortifed with DuPont Kevlar) is $500. In my opinion, the cladding MUST be encapsulated meaning both sides of the plastic should be coated with LINE-X although the backside does not need to be thick or have a texture.Quote:
Originally Posted by Marlin
Keep in mind that LINE-X is more durable than the DIY products and will also be a thicker coating.
I have pics, but don't have my camera with me today, I'll post a few pics tomorrow.
Do you want to do the whole piece to minimize the chance of peel off? Makes sense, more like a LineX shrink wrap:)Quote:
Originally Posted by LINE-X