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I don't think that those bends that you're talking about are going to happen.
Think about bending a ruler. You can bend it along the flat of the ruler but you'll never be able to bend it along the edge. Even if you're able to do it, you'll end up deforming the cross section shape.
That said ... I'm not a metal worker either so ... no charge for my opinion.:)
oh, I see what you mean, and I think that must be the same thing the guy was trying to tell me yesterday about the top flat surface.....Quote:
Originally Posted by tom4bren
??? Maybe cut out the horizontal bars entirely, reshape the outline frame angle, fab some crossbars (try to make styling acceptable), weld 'em up. ???
Probably all possible with unlimited money! :(
I'm def going forward with the tubular style, and then if they think they can tackle the flat ones, and it works out, I can always sell the first set.
Tubular Dudette.Quote:
Originally Posted by VX KAT
They could probably salvage the cross bars but they'd have to cut them loose from both ends, bend them out flatter and then shape the ends to re-weld to the frame (I just noticed in the pic that the crossbars narrow down to almost square in cross section near the center so the flattening may actually be possible).
On the other hand, I don't like the fact that the frame doesn't really match the shape of our tail lights anyway so I don't think that the end product will be a good solution.
Again: IMHO - ya got what ya paid for.
You may have already said this in your other thread, but you did already reach out to actual tail guard manufacturers on this right?
Quote:
Originally Posted by tom4bren
Yeah, I can see your point if I used the stainless ones and had them really close or double-taped to the lens, their footprint would need to be really spot on. But they also seem to be the "most" accurate footprint shape of the 3 I've now had in hand. Plus there's 9 pairs left on ebay in case somebody else wants to get them.
I was telling Dave about all the latest, and maybe I'll just go and buy a few strips of the door molding and make'em like Dub's....:_brickwal That would eliminate the risk of damage also....:goof:
Dub- is the outline/footprint all one piece? How'd you do the sharp turns...heat?
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...S/DSCN1619.jpg
Stay tuned ya'll......
Yup, every one I could find...Steelcraft, Manik, Aries and few others...called them all, long discontinued and none in stock anywhere...ebay is the only place they might pop up...and the Manik ones didQuote:
Originally Posted by vt_maverick
Just didn't know if anyone would be willing to design new ones or put old ones back into limited production. Never know, if they have the molds already on the shelf or the CAD drawings already in the system... but unfortunately it sounds like no one does or is willing. :(
Good luck Sue.Quote:
Originally Posted by VX KAT
Oh the joys of owning a VX, everything seems like a never ending project :).
You otta try building a FRIGGIN hitch!!!:)
Quote:
Originally Posted by VX KAT
Nice!!!!!!!!! Our best to your venture!
I used nothing fancier than an anvil pruning shear...Quote:
Originally Posted by VX KAT
http://content.answcdn.com/main/cont...ners/f0015.jpg
To form a scarf joint where the ends meet at the bottom of the lens.(not nearly as steep as in illustration)
http://rabbitwoodworks.com/images/Jo...carf-joint.jpg
By holding the shears at an angle when I made the cut.
Also did the same where the horizontal pieces meet the vertical sides.
And yes, the perimeter is all one continuous piece, as said, jointed at the bottom/middle of the lens.
If you get the same stuff I got, (I bought a whole roll @ NAPA) It'll almost turn the sharpest radius. A little bit of the sharpest corner is visible behind the molding, but...:_confused...I just blacked that out with a sharpie marker.
I found it easiest to remove the tail light, clean it up real well with dish detergent & water, then clean it again with a little rubbing alcohol on a rag.
Then, I put it in my lap & started cutting & forming, peeling & sticking.
Go to an auto parts store & ask to see their Trim Guard catalog to find a narrow 1/2 round shape...OR, there's always ebay...:smilewink
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1-2-X...item2ea3a3d693
Let me know if you want some extra pics with the doors open. My screws went through the black plastic lip on the taillight, not the lens. I think Julians were a little different-I used his photo as a jumping off point. Love to tell you it was easy (not so much). I had trouble with the drivers side as well, which is a narrower fit on my VX as well. I also made the mistake of (originally) having the screw stick out too far and it caught on the door at first when I closed it, and scraped it up (I plan on painting the VX anyway-so I was pissed off, but no regrets) I want to do some fine tuning later to the angles -- once I get set up at Fort Benning in May. With the three anchor points you can shake the VX by grabbing the guards, so they are functional. In total I spent $40 for the welding and same for the guards on eBay.
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