EGR valve question

Well I have been having problems with my 22mm nut working its way loose on my EGR and cant seem to get it tight enough to make it stay, and I REALLY dont want to put locktite or something on it. The problem is accessability, I just cant get to it well enough, even bought a set of wrenches like brake line wrenches (forgot the real name). SO my question is, does anyone know if the EGR and the pipe that leads to the exhaust manifold be installed as one piece? In other words removed, tightened properly, then installed together. If looks like it would be real close, would have to remove the bracket that bolts to the valve cover and holds a a/c line along the firewall. Which brings me to my next question, think removing one valve cover bolt, then reinstalling it would cause a leak? Anyone done it?

A stubby wrench will get in there. It will require some contortion on your part however.

The upper intake manifold appears to be "sandwiched" between the valve and the tube, so no, you wouldn't be able to remove it. Keep in mind that this was originally assembled outside of the engine bay, so there's not a lot of consideration for owner/mechanics to get their hands in there.

Since you have a problem with the nut continuously loosening, you might want to check for proper assembly and sources of vibration. Is the EGR tube loose at both ends or vibrating excessively when running?

get it tight cold, then warm up the engine, once its good and hot, put the 22mm wrench on the nut, and tap it a few times with a mallet, that will make it tight. Loctite would burn off anyway.

John C.

Hotsauce,
dont think I could get a wrech on it well enough to use a mallet. But thats good to know about the locktite.

Mbeach,
I think the EGR block was machined by Nazrat before I bought it if I remember correctly, and it seems to do very good if I could just get it tightened up. Its not vibrating excessively or anything and both other ends seem tight, its a matter of getting to it I think, also mine is s/c'd so that may make the intake tube you mentioned a little different. A stubby may work, will have to take another look, is it definately a 22mm? Its hard for me to even get good a solid grip on the nut with regular length wrenches.

here are some pics of mine, I am pretty sure the upper pipe wont be a problem. The lower pipe looks like it would follow through if the bracket on the back valve cover bolt was removed. I will try the stubby first though, will have to go buy one lol. I think I have everything else but what I need.

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...humbs/EGR1.jpg

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...humbs/EGR2.jpg

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...humbs/EGR3.jpg

A few things I know:

1. that looks to be the "OE" egr block that comes w/ the s/c kit.

2. Maybe loc-tite burns off,but... I was having the same problem last fall on my way back from the Badlands meet. After I got home I put some loc-tite on the threads & cranked it down as hard as I could while fairly warm.

3. It hasn't come loose since.

4. A 22mm stubby from Sears is your friend & should spend the rest of it's life in your glove box.

The OEM block is part of the manifold, its cast in.

John C.

I was trying to say, "it looks like what came w/ my s/c kit". OE, as pertaining to what came with the kit.

Ldub, is that stubby that works good for you, straight or offset?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ruflyf

Ldub, is that stubby that works good for you, straight or offset?

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Straight.
Though, It's a ways away from what I'd call working "good".
You're able to get a "bight" on the nut & turn until it makes contact, then barely, (with a little finesse & a few curse words) get it on for another go.
The " fun factor" increases with every degree of engine temp. :p
Another thought...I haven't tried this, so at your own risk...but, how about a dab of hi-temp, sensor safe silicone instead of loc-tite ?
Though past experience tells me it may make future dis-assembly more difficult.
Good Luck.

Sorry, I don't know what to tell you.

I didn't realize that you had a different EGR mounting block.

It could be a dissimilar metals issue, the steel heats up and contracts too much, making it loose, I dunno.

The only real fix would be to remove everything, drill the nut and safety wire it in place when it's tight. PITA.

It may sound odd, but I applied anti-sieze to the threads the nut screws onto the last time it came loose on my EGR assembly, and it hasn't come loose since. Although one of it's main uses is to keep the threads of nuts and bolts from, well....siezing together obviously, it's also good for lubricating threads so that more accurate torque values can be achieved. (As opposed to getting to those places in the threads that want to bind up a bit, making a person think that the nut is now tight on the bolt). The lubrication on the threads makes it easier to tighten, so it's easier to get it tighter.

Another solution may be to drill & tap the egr block for a set screw or two...
another pita solution.

Well it looks like the stubby did the trick, was finally able to thread it up (what felt like) good and tight. Soo now I have one $12 22mm stubby craftsman wrench....thats gonna be a expensive set to complete..lol. Anyway thanks for the idea, I had some shorter wrenches that were offest but the craftsman stubby is straight and is just the right length.

I did lube it up a bit like Y33TREKker mentioned but didnt add any sealers or anything so hopefully that'll do it. I guess if it continues I will remove it and do it while its off, but I think its problem solved.

Thanks

Bw what does PITA mean? I hadn't heard that one yet.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ruflyf

Well it looks like the stubby did the trick, was finally able to thread it up (what felt like) good and tight. Soo now I have one $12 22mm stubby craftsman wrench....thats gonna be a expensive set to complete..lol. Anyway thanks for the idea, I had some shorter wrenches that were offest but the craftsman stubby is straight and is just the right length.

I did lube it up a bit like Y33TREKker mentioned but didnt add any sealers or anything so hopefully that'll do it. I guess if it continues I will remove it and do it while its off, but I think its problem solved.

Thanks

Bw what does PITA mean? I hadn't heard that one yet.

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Ever try to eat one of those pita pocket things??? :naughty: In my world it's an international acronym for "pain in the azz".

I've used a regular 10" 22mm crescent wrench to r&r that EGR nut before without issues. It just takes a long time because it only gives you about and eighth of a turn, and you've got to flip the wrench over halfway through in order to get it to turn enough to get the wrench back on. Then again, this is on a stock '99 VX (not s/c).