"New" Engine Installed

So back in June my engine gave up on its steady diet of a quart every month or so, and just binged on half its oil supply in one day. So it pretty much sounded like ball bearings in the engine.

Original post here:
http://vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=25711

After a month of digging around and looking at my options I settled on a re-manufactured 2003 Axiom Engine. I chose this as it was easy to get through a nearby autoparts distributor and it comes with a 3 year 100,000mile warranty.I did try to consider a used Axiom Engine from a wrecker 500 miles away, but it was over $2,300 with getting it to my door, where the reman was $3,000 (with core return). Made sense to spend the extra to get close to "New".

I went to a shop I use that's just a few blocks away, that had enough experience with engine swaps, mostly domestic. They quoted just under $2,000 + fluids for the the whole swap. Quite fair I thought from a few other prices I got that were around the same.Swap went off without any major hitches, but they did have more work than they expected - and this is why I like these guys: is that they stuck to their quote even though I figure it took them longer than anticipated.

I had one guy I got a price from that said he had to lift the body off to get at the engine (probably saw that online video) so his price was higher... That doesn't have to happen. My mechanics however had to pull out the front differential and axles. Not sure if that was truly required by someone familiar enough with VXs... Anyways, a few interesting tid bits I learned/saw:
- with pulling the axle apart they noticed a torn CV boot and said the joint was a bit worn, so I ordered a new axles from Indy4X and it arrived the day after they put the axle together :(, so I replaced it when I got the VX home. Unfortunate timing.

- It made sense to get the thermostat replaced as it was easy to get at when the engine was out.

- They had to disassemble the A/C lines to get access, and forgot to recharge the system - so I'm going back.

- They had to disassemble some power steering components and ruined an O-ring, so it leaked enough that they held onto it for a few hours to fix.

- Fluids that I gave them and they actually used: Oil and filter and power steering fluid.

- From sitting for over two months, the rear brake pads crumbled a bit and started squealing, so I replaced those along with the half shaft. (Then noticed I had a seized pin in the caliper and couldn't get it out :mado:- so a new caliper got into the work)

Funny thing with all the parts swapped off the old engine onto the reman, It was hard to tell it was "new"- the reman was all shiny and it pretty much got covered in old covers, headers, tubing, etc...

Anyways, it runs smooth, no ECM issues or engine codes so far. And since these engines are "old school", I'm having to do a nice break in period. ;) Interesting how they don't really say to do that anymore with new cars...


Some Pics:
Engine Out:

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...all_gone_2.jpg

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...All_gone_1.jpg

Build-up under existing headers:

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...sting_Head.jpg


Old Engine out (pan was FULL of metal bits ;eeko;):

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...ine_botton.jpg

Shiny reman Engine:

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/3328/REMAN01.jpg

I am glad to hear that your VX got a new heart. Hope it gives you many years of trouble-free service!

Great news!

We are in the same boat! Just installed my remanufactured engine last week. I did it myself, and actually, wasn't that bad of a job! Not sure why they had to remove the axle or mess with the brakes? I think that vid with the body coming off is a bit extreme. I pulled my engine only out the top! The good thing about doing this myself is, like you, I swapped everything off the old engine ( sensors, brackets, valve covers, ect) to put on the new engine, but not before completely cleaning, and in many cases painting the pieces going back on the new engine. Also cleaned out the plenum to shiney new condition. Yeah, all that took time, but the end result looks really nice in the engine bay! Congrats to you on the new heart, and many wishes for many carefree miles ahead for you!

Thanks for clarifying that the front axles/diff does NOT have to be removed during engine replacement.

You're right IndianaVX, it was power steering fluid leaking, not brake fluid - so I edited that part. sorry.

My notes, ( for future readers of this thread) on engine removal
1) front diff does not have to come out
2) power steering pump can be removed from its bracket, and carefully hung on bolt where the air filter box was, with hoses attached. ( yeah, go ahead and take filter box out and give yourself some room)
3) AC compressor can be removed from bracket, and hung in a similar way as PS pump with hoses attached. It will only move a little, so pull it forward, towards the front, and then hang it so it stays there.
4) exhaust needs disconnected from the exhaust manifold. So this means the whole exhaust needs to be moved back by I bolting all the joints, and hanging it from the undercarriage. You actually need to remove the whole driver side exhaust pipe if you want to remove the starter easier.
5) unbolt the flywheel from the tourqe converter.
6) all of this is done with the front tires removed! Gives you much better access to actually SEEING things, as well as reaching things.
7) tag and bag EVERYTHING!!! I made little tags out of a thin Teflon type cutting board sheet cut into little rectangles. Then I punched a hole in one end of the tag. This allowed a nice surface for writing with a sharpie, and the hole allowed a zip tie to be used to hold the tag to the wire, part, or whatever.
8) take videos of everything as you take it apart. If you tag something, and then video it, make a note on the tag that there is a video! That way you will know!

Anyway, got carried away with my list. Basically, after all of the above is done, and you tag and remove the wiring harness, just unbolt the bolts that hold the transmission to the engine (NOTE WHERE THE DIFFERENT SIZED BOLTS GO) you will be able to lift the engine out of the bay. I did remove the upper plenum, and the valve covers to provide some extra clearance. I also was missing my engine lift point on the drivers side head, so I used the bolt holes where the intake bolts into to hang my chain.

I will edit this if I think of anything else. Hope this helps someone in the future!

Kenny, that is great to hear! So now that you have no excuse... see ya in MOAB next year!!! :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ZEUS

Kenny, that is great to hear! So now that you have no excuse... see ya in MOAB next year!!! :)

---

YES! It is back on the schedule! I've missed it too many times.

So here's a friendly warning about engine warranty I unfortunately had to find out about.

I purchased my reman engine directly from the parts supplier, as it saved the $400 markup the mechanic would have charged.

After a month, the oil was rapidly disappearing. Brought it back to the shop and they found that an oil seal was damaged inside - this was the way it was supplied. So the parts supplier warrantied the work.

Then I learned that the "warranty" means that they only cover $60/hr shop rate. My mechanic is $125/hr. So for something that came faulty from the supplier, I was out of pocket another $200. (still ahead $200 tho')

Lesson: Read the fine print.


The fun doesn't end.
A few weeks ago I had a loud rattling in the engine compartment. Turns out the exhaust header needed to be planed to fit back onto the new block. Not sure why it took so long after the install to creep up, but I think it was because it was all apart for the engine replacement.

My intent is not to just complain here, but just to give some forewarned advice on what to look out for when you go down the path of a new engine.
Get a good mechanic who will treat you fairly when trouble crops up.

But I gotta say, the machine runs smooooth and better gas mileage. I also notice less frame vibrations through the gas pedal, again, nice an smoooth.
:)

You are brave! I am not sure I would trust a “wholesale engine rebuilder” to rebuild such an obscure engine. I realize that this is a common engine, but how many of them actually get rebuild? Most of them go into Troopers, that sell for $1500-$3000. Ideally, you want to find a specialist in Isuzu engines, but do such people exist in US? Second best option is to find a VERY GOOD local machine shop, who will take time to learn how to do this right. Unfortunately, most experiences machinists rely on their prior experience (90% of which consists of rebuilding American V8s…) and do not look things up :(.

But do keep updating us!

What did the job ended up costing you? Not counting the follow up costs, those are fluky and can happen to anyone.