steering links

So I'm trying to do the differential drop this weekend and I'm already stuck. The steering link, the first one that is attached to the steering box, has a 31mm nut on it. Is that one that I remove and the idler on the other frame rail as well, or the two smaller castle nuts? I've got the smaller castle nuts off but I have been hammering on them so much to get them out they are starting to deform! Help!

If I get a wrench the right sizes to take the big nut off the steering box, how hard will it be to get it ligned back up on the right grooves when reinstalling?

Thanks!

i havent taken it apart on the VX yet, but putting a block of wood over the bottom of the bolt you are hammering is always a good idea.. i also have left the castle nut flush with the bottom of the bolt and then a block of wood to help even more.

a tie rod puller may help too

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/pub...nuBzR2hA4CgakX

you should be able to remove the pitman and idler arms from the center link without having to take them off the frame and steering box

looking through old posts, tom said he had a lot of trouble with one he worked on, had to apply LOTS of heat before it would come loose

if you do remove the pitman arm completely, there are "notches" in the teeth that will help you line it back up

You don't need to remove the steering linkage to drop the differential. I know the guides say you do but you can get the diff brackets in & out with the steering linkage on. I did a 2" diff drop last month and worked around the steering linkage. Good luck, the whole project was a pita but worth it.

The 2 posts above mine are both correct!

To get the steering center link and/or tie rods loose you WILL need a puller. I would suggest a 3 arm puller like this one:
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA300_.jpg

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-OTC465-Thr.../dp/B002RCNKMO
Only $40 at amazon and it will save you hours and hours of frustration/cursing/bruised knuckles and hammering with a 5lb hammer. Even once the puller is on the joints and torqued down almost as much as it will go, you will still need a few nice hits with the hammer, but the puller does its job and releases the joint very easily once you know what you are doing.

But just as already stated you do not absolutely need to remove all of the center link. I myself just loosened the idle arm side and left the steering box connection in tact, but before I bought a very nice puller I totally ruined the center steering link and had to buy a new one off of Amazon.com for $100. Good luck!

I ended up putting the castle nuts back on and everything back, ran out of time for the weekend. I'm going to do it myself, hopefully soon, since I've got access to a cutter and welder (someone else will be doing the welding) here at work. I will probably try again, this weekend should be another 3 days. Thanks for the heads up on the pullers and not having to remove the steering links completely!

When I installed my diff drop, I ran into the same thing but was able to eventually get them loose. Remember that if/when you do get them loose, apply some anti-sieze when reassembling them just in case you ever need to break them free again.

When I helped CSTYLES install his diff drop, we ended up doing the same thing that LittleBeast did & FUBAR'd the center link. He actually took a torch to the old one after it was replaced to eventually get the joint free (not sure if that part was out of anger or out of curiosity to see if it could be done).

What's happening is that the joints are designed with too shallow of a taper. When the castle nut is installed, it causes the tapered shaft to bind. If they had been designed with a steeper taper we wouldn't be having this trouble. Hind sight is always 20-20.

When using the puller, remove the castle nut & then put it back on upside-down (flush with the top of the shaft). The nut will help to protect the threads & shaft.

That's good to know. I was afraid I would be the only maroon out there who couldn't get his steering link off his half shafts!

Nope, not alone. When mine broke free, it sounded like a gunshot. I actually deformed the head of the pitman arm puller I was using and had to grind it back down into shape.

If you still can't get'r done, take it to a good alignment shop & pay them to break it free & then re-install it with the anti sieze I mentioned above. I'm sure they have lots of experience with stubborn ball joints. Of course, they probably will ask for liability waiver for damage in the process.

Well I got all the way to the point of the differential ready to fall out, all the bracket bolts are removed and everything out of the way, almost. I decided to leave the steering links in place and now, of course, they are in the way... What did you guys do to get around the steering links? I was going to have someone turn the steering wheel because i was covered in grease but every body here has already gone to bed... So I'm gonna try again tomorrow, what should I do to avoid taking the steering links out?

So went back out about 6am this morning and turned the wheel all the way to the passenger side. I don't know if that's what did it, or I was just too tired to get it done last night, but it came out with a little pushing and prodding. Got both axles out and brackets off, and now to make some measurements and cut/weld.

Who has made their own front cross member, what amount did you remove and reinforce to make enough room for the lowered parts?

Here is how I did mine:

I forgot what size I used but I welded a C to the original crossmember to extend it. I put one bolt thru it.
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...ropBracket.jpg

On the driver side I put the outer bolt thru the original hole.
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...opBracket2.jpg
I had intentions of added all four bolts back but never did - just kept the two. Never had any issues come from it but it is sloppy work. :)

So if what I made/modified on my front cross member doesn't fit, can I drive it around without the crossmember in place temporarily until I make something that fits?

You should be OK driving around without the crossmember for a while. IIRC Zeus did that.

If you like, I can check with Welder Guy to see how much just for the crossmember drops until you figure out what's going to work for you.

Tom

That crossmember isn't a structural piece anyways so the only thing that would come from it not being in is possibly banging the front diff on something. Here is a modified crossmember to maintain max ground clearance, just notched out the factory crossmember. Some guys have even cut and welded that area around the diff a little lower instead of notching it but either works:

http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/.../168736310.jpg

http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/.../168736509.jpg

http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/.../168736611.jpg

http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/.../168736712.jpg

What you posted there Dallas is almost exactly what I did with mine. Except I didn't go far enough to the passenger side of the crossmember to completely clear the differential. So long as ill be ok driving around at least for a day I will take it back to work tomorrow night and cut out what is needed and re paint. I've gotten everything else bolted in and it all looks really good. thanks for all the help! I will get some photos up soon. Forgot to mention we took it down 1&3/4" and the cv angles look awesome!