Tackling the hood insert. Color sanding question...

Rowhard wrote:

"Hello newthings. You just won't believe how good that insert I bought from you with the yellow casting looks on my Dragon Green. When we get a sunny day here, will PM some photo's to you. Actually, when color sanding, Sand with 1200 wet in one direction then 1500 wet at 90 degree till the 1200 sanding lines are gone. Can then do 2000 wet at 90 degrees till the 1500 is gone, then machine buff to a high gloss, decreasing the grit till there is no grit."

I'm interested to learn more specific sanding techniques used during the wetsanding process ... Long strokes or short strokes? (full length of the part?) Light pressure or elbow grease? Is the sanding done before and after clear coat? Oh, and i'm goin ebony like the rest...

I have a porter cable orbital polisher and can buff/polish when done.

I'd like to get to as close to "quality" short of plunking down major coin each time the thing fades, so willing to learn now.

Thanks to any of the DIY painters in the house that can offer advice.

Jeff
BXVXY2K

:confused:
Are you talking about sanding the black insert and repainting?

Looks ok when treated like plastic with vinylex or similar but I don't want that nasty stuff on my black paint. I've never been a fan of the two tone look and just am looking to go all black.

So... yeah, painting it black and want it just as shiny as the ebony body... glare schmare!

Thanks,

Jeff

Im repainting mine at the moment but because mine has some bubbles and cracks in it ive stripped it right down with 120grit wet so far. Then im filling in the little cracks and making sure i cant see any more bubbles.

Then going up the grit line all the way back up to 2000 making sure i have no grit lines in the plastic then ill be repainting it black, since mine was basicaly a deteriated looking grey.

Its a very long job but im in no rush at all, want to make it look how it should be:)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sprey

Im repainting mine at the moment but because mine has some bubbles and cracks in it ive stripped it right down with 120grit wet so far. Then im filling in the little cracks and making sure i cant see any more bubbles.

Then going up the grit line all the way back up to 2000 making sure i have no grit lines in the plastic then ill be repainting it black, since mine was basicaly a deteriated looking grey.

Its a very long job but im in no rush at all, want to make it look how it should be:)

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400 grit will be fine enough for painting, you want to give the paint a tooth to attach to.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rowhard

400 grit will be fine enough for painting, you want to give the paint a tooth to attach to.

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Really :O save me alot of time then :D

Cheers Rowhard

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sprey

Really :O save me alot of time then :D

Cheers Rowhard

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Your more then welcome mate. NOW, depending on what kind of paint you are using, you can color sand with 1000, followed by 1500 diagonally keeping it very wet, then buff to a high luster if that is the finish you are looking for. That will remove the orange peel, the texture and be like glass when you are done. You will want to use a sanding block for this unless you have a very light and talented hand. Then rubbing compound followed by polishing compound then glaze. It is a case of going finer and finer, removing the scratches till you need a magnifying glass to see the scratches.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rowhard

Your more then welcome mate. NOW, depending on what kind of paint you are using, you can color sand with 1000, followed by 1500 diagonally keeping it very wet, then buff to a high luster if that is the finish you are looking for. That will remove the orange peel, the texture and be like glass when you are done. You will want to use a sanding block for this unless you have a very light and talented hand. Then rubbing compound followed by polishing compound then glaze. It is a case of going finer and finer, removing the scratches till you need a magnifying glass to see the scratches.

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Thanks for the info. Just sanded it with 400 before its looking good.

I plan to prime it then paint it with Bumper Bar Black. Have used on stuff on before and normaly turns out good, if it doesnt sand it off and try another way

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sprey

Thanks for the info. Just sanded it with 400 before its looking good.

I plan to prime it then paint it with Bumper Bar Black. Have used on stuff on before and normaly turns out good, if it doesnt sand it off and try another way

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need to lightly sand the primer coat too, again giving the paint a tooth to grab onto.

Wanna be really simple about it? Just use a Scotch-Brite pad and you will be fine. :)

http://www.shop3m.com/61500123239.html

These are great for prepping wheels for paint too. Just make sure you clean the surface well afterward to remove impurities. I recommend Prep-Sol and some tack cloth.

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...gl6LR3C821Z4bl

http://www.createforless.com/3M+Fini...utm_medium=cse

Thanks for all the Info.

I sanded it down with 400 Wet the otherday. After i stripped all the colored paint off with 120. Will be buying some plastic primer this week then sanding it like Rowhard said then painting it with the Bumper Black stuff.

Then time to put my Vx backtogether :)

I wrapped mine with semi-gloss black vinyl. It works perfect! No more fading...