If you haven't already, look at the thread I linked on line 2 of post #5....specifically, the 2nd picture in post #11. That's how I did mine (of the options shown in that thread).
Basically, buy a roller bearing (similar/same) as the one pictured (2nd pic, post #11). Buy a screw around 1-1.5" long (you'll figure it out). Also buy a couple of nuts and a few washers SMALLER than the OD of the bearing. They'll probably be about the size of a dime. The idea is to sandwich the inner ring of the bearing with washers (or maybe a nut -- as shown). The REST of the screw will go threw the window-mounting bar...and stick out. In the picture, the guy passed a screw through a washer, the bearing, another washer, a nut, a washer, the window bar, and a nut. (Possibly...one final washer AFTER the window bar?)
On mine, I just used 3-4 washers BETWEEN the bearing and the window bar. Instead of being tightly cinched TO the window bar, the bearing will need to sit out maybe 1/8-1/4". This is necessary for it to "grab" the window regulator guide. You want don't want much space....just enough to grab the lip JUST LIKE THE WHITE PLASTIC FINGER in the picture. In essence, you are improving on the design/durability of that finger -- like the person who designed the METAL (SBC) brackets used in place of the OEM window mounts. (I strengthened mine by bending a piece of metal around them...kind of like a binder clip.)
How the bearing works.....When you mount/clamp the inner ring of the bearing WITHOUT clamping onto the outer ring, it will still spin. That sandwiched black middle "ring" of the bearing is recessed and is where tiny ball bearings live. It's recessed so you won't clamp it too. The outer ring "rides" on the bearings which ride on the inner ring. Hope that makes sense on how a roller bearing works.
To install, you'll need to detach the window and lower it to the bottom of the door....then remove the regulator so you can drill a hole in that window mounting bar. (I think it helps if you loosen all the regulator bolts before taking down the window. I also recommend marking all the bolt positions before you loosen them -- to make reinstallation easier.
As previously explained, the roller bearing serves as much as a "grab finger" -- like the OEM white "finger" as it does a rolling bearing. I didn't observe how much the bearing actually TURNS as the window goes up/down. It might mostly slide? Or...half/half? I just followed the thread and used that approach -- which worked VERY well. It may also help to let you know the metal-to-metal contact (between the roller and the metal guide) don't squeak. So....It probably IS rolling more than sliding.
If my explanation still doesn't help, remove the inner door panel and compare to the linked thread. You'll figure it out. It's actually fairly easy to work on compared to what's inside a lot of doors!!!! P.S. Having a helper may come in handy when dealing with the loose window....during regulator removal/installation. I managed it on my own....but cussed a couple of times! LOL
Hopefully, Steven Colbert will mention me on his confessions segment! ;-)
Last edited by 89Vette : 02/11/2018 at 11:28 PM
2001 Ebony VX and 1989 Custom 383 Corvette
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Originally Posted by 89Vette
