Hey XtonVX,
I'm in the same boat as you. My search for decent wheels has left me with few real choices.
Did you ever try the ST6 and if not, what did you end up doing?

I like the look of the Enkei wheels and would be happy with RT6's if the ST6 won't work. Unfortunately they're only available with a +0 offset. I'm going for a look similar to WormGod's, and I don't want to lift. My VX has low miles, and I plan to keep it for a while.

The ST6 is actually my first choice, but nowhere does it say that ANY current Enkei SUV wheel will fit the VX.
The searching I have done has told be this so far:
The current Enkei offering differs from the older (RT6) models in that the center bore is not machined through at 108.5mm but rather it narrows at some point to allow a smaller, plastic center cap to snap in.
While this provides a more appealing look, it prevents the wheel from fitting on the VX front hubs because the hub bottoms out in the bore before the mounting plate can contact the hub surface.
How much space is left, I don't know, but the problem as I see it, only exists on the front. The rear is OK.

The way I see it, I have three choices:
1. Settle for a the RT6 or different brand of wheel.
2. Use a hub spacer between the wheel and the hub to gain the required clearance inside the bore. This would require using a wheel with lower offset (the lowest available is a +10) to restore the wheel to the desired position in the well.
Because of the limited offset choices, the spacer would need no be about 10mm or so.
3. Turn the wheels on a lathe or similar device and machine the wheels to remove the offending material.
Assuming a bore-through would be required, this has several problems right off the bat.
a. Getting access to the proper machinery or a shop willing to do the work at a reasonable cost. I actually have a
lathe, but it's not big enough to handle 18" wheels.
b. The machining process would compromise the clearcoat, if one exists, and could cause it to peel prematurely.
c. The center cap would no longer fit, and I'd have to find an older style pass-through cap and hope it looks good.

I'm not too concerned about removing the material in option 3, since the majority of the bore is already at 108.5. I wouldn't be removing any structural material, and the bolt holes would be no weaker than the bolt holes in an RT6, for example. Also, since the VX wheels are not hub-centric, the center bore plays no role in wheel centering.
The possibility does exist that a bore-through would not be required, only a bore "deepening" but I don't see this as being very likely.

My questions are:
Has anyone tried an ST6 and how much space is left between the mounting plate and the bolt surface when the hub bottoms out inside the bore?
Has anyone made this work and how did you do it?

I'm almost tempted to order one wheel at a +10 offset and try it myself. On the other hand, if I find out it's a waste of time, I'll try to get a set of RT6's.

BK