Quote Originally Posted by VX KAT View Post
Sounds perfect. I did notice the prep instructions said to wash plastic with soap....was surprised it wasn't more involved. But I'd do what you outlined with the denatured alcohol.

~Plan on only doing no more than 2 ft at a time.

~I just dipped the CORNER of the square sponge pad with terry cloth, got about 1/2" - 3/4" of dye on that corner.

~Splotched/dabbed it on a few places of my intended work area, than started doing the wiping with the pad.

~As the sponge absorbs more and more dye, you can press/squeeze on it harder with your fingers to discharge more dye while you are applying it.

~After you get the wettest part applied, (after just a few strokes) then use progressively lighter pressure to kind of smooth the product.

~when it's wet, it can look very streaky.....wait it out until it's dry for a day or so.

~it definitely surface dries faster in warmer weather.

~A big mistake I made was to keep wiping and wiping trying to get it perfect....the product ends up drying out by doing that and then you can't get it smoothed out. That's what went wrong on my front driver's corner.

~Plan your stroke pattern ahead of time on the front corners.

~Don't try to stretch the product- HUGE MISTAKE, makes it dry even faster.

~It comes off the paint really pretty easy, so don't freak if you get some on. I used a vinyl eraser for some spots that were a little tougher and didn't "scratch off" with my nail.

~I have 4 coats on, 3 was actually better...aim for 3.

~With that in mind, if you see an area drying too much and you still want to smooth it out, dip the sponge again, add more dye and try it again.

~Yes, you can add fresh dye onto wet area you just did. It's like a 2nd coat.
May want to go a little heavy with it over the trail rash areas.

~I did it sitting on a rolling stool, was perfect level and allowed me to do wide swipes on the door panels particularly, so I swiped from front door edge to rear door edge, as straight across as I could.

If you find the sponge terry cloth thing isn't putting enough product on, maybe try a foam brush for coat 1 or 2, it will put more product on than the terry sponge.

It is definitely not a shiny product AT ALL, it's has a little bit of sheen in sun, but not much.

Take pics!

Wish Atilla would post some pics or give some more input.

Good luck!
Good to hear it worked out for you Marlin.

Greg (gergmon) came up yesterday and we did his in the black. Used a foam brush for first coat, then the terry cloth/sponge for 2nd coat. Used 2 full bottles.

SOME MORE TIPS:
~When applying it with the foam brush or terry sponge be aware of the pressure your fingers are putting on it, as we found that makes streaks where you apply your finger pressure. Solve this by holding your applicator with your finger tips pointing up and make your stokes go left to right, right to left, AND use progressively lighter pressure.

~Greg discovered you can use your gloved hand to smooth the surface after it's had a just few minutes to set.

~SAND PAPER- One area got a little thick cuz somebody kept rubbing it , so Greg tried to sand it with some 1500 and 2000 grit. Probably actually need a little courser grade. It was pretty dry but it did smooth it a little bit.

~He applied it on the mirror housings. At first it left brush/applicator marks (probably what Atilla was talking about). So then Greg tried rubbing it with his gloved hand and a light sanding with 2000. More dye, repeat a few times. It came out pretty good. That plastic is pretty light gray (like our roof rails), and it darkened it tremendously. It seemed like it was absorbing it since the sand paper didn't make a bald area.

He's going to buy some more and try spraying the next/final coat on.

His cladding was really dark to begin with and this only darkened it a little more. It does appear the "Black" is not a jet black, but more a charcoal black.