Quote Originally Posted by eternal21 View Post
You really only need a 10" or a 12". The only reason I'd go with a 12" is that most play down to 20Hz. Lowest 10" I've seen worth a damn plays 25Hz. I had a Pioneer 10" that played 20Hz, but after blowing 2 in 2 months on pretty low/moderate use, I won't be using those again.
You know....They say a 20Hz sound wave needs something like 40ft to form. Inside a (small) vehicle, there isn't necessarily room to HEAR the lower frequencies. However, in my experience, you feel them...and their harmonics. I would also add that bigger and/or multiple drivers move more air. The more air you move, the greater the sonice "impact". IIRC, two 10's is about the same surface area as a 12...and two 12's is about the same as a 15". Part of it has to do with the suspension area of the cone too.

The choice of drivers kind of depends on how loud you roll; how much ear protection you want to wear; and/or how much hearing you want to have when you get older. Another choice depends on your desire/ability to hear emergency vehicles. That said, I like my loud music though I don't hit it in the car as much any more. Engines have become the outdoor "music to my ears".

As for the spare mod, I'm not sure I'm hep on the option to cut/pull it closer to the body. I think we've seen the door reinforced with the spare mounted ON (versus pushed back into) the rear door. Haven't we? When you own you own car, you get to do what you want. When you own a rare vehicle, I'd think more about resale. OTOH, we haven't seen much in the way of demand for rarity, have we?

I'm with the speaker comment. If you are going to mod the rear door, equip it with a sub. Hang the spare on the back w/o cutting into it seems more logical. But, I haven't seriously considered that option. So, I'm probably missing something?

Looks like a great job with internal structure welding/strengthening. I can appreciate a good work no matter what! :-)